less-mandrel vs mandrel-less?

[rick_lindsey]

How much of the benefit from mandrel-less turning would you get by simply using less mandrel? I'm not a production turner by any stretch of the imagination, so I can afford the time to adjust the length of my mandrel to suit a single barrel at a time, would the benefits of this approach be similar to turning between centers?

-Rick

 

[Russianwolf]

They sell adjustable mandrels for just this purpose. the shorter the mandrel, the less likely it will deflect. But eliminating the mandrel all together eliminates the possibility even further.

If your mandrel has a bow in it, even at 4 inches long, it may cause some out of round barrels.

 

[leehljp]

Going Mandrel-less is not about saving time (for production work or as a hobby either one), but in eliminating some of the hassle of figuring out where the cotton picking OOR/oval problems are coming from, along with solving some finish problems associated with bushings (the main reason I switched.)

Things are much more complicated on a mandrel, long or short. The vast majority of oval/OOR pens come from something related to mandrels - PERIOD. Nothing to do with time production; everything to do with better chances for a nicer pen. If a person is very adept at keeping his lathe and equipment well tuned, he may not experience OOR and if he does, he will probably know how to fix it easily enough. This person will do well on the mandrel and probably there is no incentive to change from it.

I make 2 to 10 pens a month, when I have time. I have 5 mandrels, 3 A's and 2 B's besides owning a Beall setup that is adjustable. I haven't used one since I turned a duck call last spring. I have the means to choose - I can turn with a mandrel or mandrel-less. I will choose mandrel-less every day of the week because of less hassles, truer turning, no bushing sanding dust or stuck bushings on thick finishes.

 

[PaulDoug]

I turn most my pens that way. Never had a problem. NOT going to argue with the mandrel-less guys though, I've seen some of their pen, they are way ahead of me!

 

[ed4copies]

I've tried both and settled on the short mandrel. Call it security, if you like. I was used to a mandrel and felt that mandrel-less allowed a little movement. In retrospect, it was probably off-center bushings, but the short mandrel seems like a better way, TO ME!!!! YMMV!!!!!

 

[ed4copies]

As I see Paul is advertising for HIS bushings, I should point out I never tried HIS!!!

The bushings that were suspect were "off the shelf", NOT made for mandrel-less.

That is probably a large contributing factor to my problems.

 

[Larry Gottlieb]

Is there any advantage to be gained with "mandrel-less" turning of modified slimlines where there is a need for "perfect" fit between the two barrels?

Larry

 

[leehljp]

Is there any advantage to be gained with "mandrel-less" turning of modified slimlines where there is a need for "perfect" fit between the two barrels?

Larry

Larry,

First, I use calipers and turn each half to the specs derived from the caliper reading of the nib, CB and clip end. Next, and for me where I find an advantage - on occasion, I like to take a blank off and check it for something - color matching to which pen/plating or color. It is a breeze with mandrel-less, quick - as compared to taking the mandrel off, taking the nut off and then the bushings, then replacing them and going again.

IF I hadn't gone to mandrel-less I would have never missed the ability to take the blanks on and off at a whim for checking and inspecting. But now, I take it for granted. I would feel very constrained if I couldn't pull a blank off for close inspection a time or two.

I think it is a personal work choice.

 

[rherrell]

I make my own bushings and don't yet have all the sizes so I still use a "short" mandrel and it still works well. I do however "tune" it up every time with this.....

It's just a dial indicator mounted on a post that fits in my banjo. I just tap it lightly until it's straight. I can get it under .001" in about a minute.

 

[ed4copies]

Rick's suggestion is GREAT.

If you don't have such a setup, run the lathe with the mandrel positioned and held as usual by the tailstock.

Take a sharpie and bring it over the toolrest until it JUST contacts the mandrel. That mark tells you which part of the mandrel is "High", tap it, repeat above.

When the mandrel is straight, your line will go all the way around the rod.