Lathe Speed for Micro Mesh

[JWS Penworks]

What speed should Micro Mesh be used at? Do you use a different speed for wood or plastics?

Thanks!
John

 

[Rudy Vey]

What speed should Micro Mesh be used at? Do you use a different speed for wood or plastics?

Thanks!
John

All my sanding with Abranet and MM is done full speed for wood, acrylics (careful here, though - heat!!!) and also after application of CA (thin) finish.
Others may differ, but thats the way I do it for many years.
With MM you always have to be very careful not to overheat it, it will melt and being destroyed.

 

[CaptG]

Like Rudy said, be carefull of the heat. I got a couple MM pads with melt spots. A drop of water on the acrylic helps bunches.

 

[lwalden]

I don't differentiate between the speed for woods and plastics, but unlike Rudy I don't sand at top speed. I do my actual sanding on a Jet VS mini with the belt set in the high range, which has the low speed at 1700. I move the blanks to a Delta Midi for applying the CA finish, where application and subsequent sanding is performed at 800RPM.

 

[PaulDoug]

I go at about 1400 rpm. For sanding CA finish and acrylics I wet sand at that speed.

 

[fernhills]

I finish wet sand with mm for both wood and acrylics at the slowest speed possible.

 

[Druid]

There are many ways to approach based on the material your working with, this general rule of thumb works for me.

For wood, I set my lathe speed approximately 1000-1500 rpm.
For Corian, solid surface and acrylic I wet sand with a few drops of water and light pressure with the lathe speed at approimately 1500-1800 rpm.

 

[JWS Penworks]

Thanks for the responses! That was very helpful.

John

 

[TellicoTurning]

I'm late with my post here, but I usually turn all of my pens at about 2600 rpm... I think that is second from highest speed on the Jet Mini... that's wood, acrylics and antler.

I don't use MM on wood until after the CA finish is on... but I sand at same speed, then drop speed for the CA. I don't use thin CA (I'm too messy with it and usually get more on my fingers than on the blank - I apply several coats of Medium at 450/500 what ever the slowest speed is) then after all coats have cured - I use accellerator to speed up cure.. I go back up to speed and MM with a cool whip container of water under the blank, dip the MM in the water as I sand..

On Acrylics and Antler, I got straight to the water/MM sanding at speed. If I have to add CA to the Antler for anything, I do slow to the bottom speed, then back up for sanding.

Also run the plastic polish on all blanks at high speed.

I'm doing fewer and fewer pens and probably will have to go back and relearn my technique when I go back to pens.

 

[marcruby]

A good general rule is to sand (including MM) at no more than half your turning speed. At high speeds the abrasive will fill with dust and only the largest particles will be doing the work. At this point sandpaper becomes scratch paper. And MM will melt at high temperatures.

Marc

 

[GaryMadore]

A good general rule is to sand (including MM) at no more than half your turning speed. At high speeds the abrasive will fill with dust and only the largest particles will be doing the work. At this point sandpaper becomes scratch paper. And MM will melt at high temperatures.

Marc

Yup, and I've also been taught that, in addition to what you just described, sanding at too high a speed is actually a s-l-o-w-e-r process (takes more time) because the paper just "skates" over the surface instead of cutting.

Cheers!

Gary

 

[arjudy]

I usually use MM with water at top speed with light pressure. That has given me good results on most plastics.

 

[JWS Penworks]

Thanks for all the responses, I am learning a lot, and I appreciate the help!

John

 

[TellicoTurning]

A good general rule is to sand (including MM) at no more than half your turning speed. At high speeds the abrasive will fill with dust and only the largest particles will be doing the work. At this point sandpaper becomes scratch paper. And MM will melt at high temperatures.

Marc

That is probably a very good rule. I usually use abranet to do the initial sanding and and only a few passes. I try to make the last pass or two on the blank with a sharp skew so that little sanding is really needed. I also use those little sanding pads from PSI.. I think they are a form of MM and since I most often use them wet, they don't generate much heat. Knock on wood (two sharp raps to the side of head) I haven't melted any YET.
This is only my method and not to be taken as definitive in any way.