Lathe drilling - Irregular size blanks

[PMisiaszek]

I've read the previous threads and the tutorials about lathe drilling, and I'm ready to convert. I have a chuck, a Beall collet system, and I've been looking at the new PSI lathe drilling device. Many of my blanks are irregular in size. Some, like antler, are irregular in size and curved. So, my question is which way to go... chuck, collet, or PSI. If I go with the collet, it seems to me that I must always turn the blank (or antler) to round. I'm wondering if the same is true for irregular blanks with a chuck alternative.

 

[Dustygoose]

For antler, I put the drill chuck in the head and drill kinda freehand. For blanks, I use my Barracuda 4 jaw chuck with the drill chuck in the tailstock.

Hope that helps

 

[randyrls]

Some, like antler, are irregular in size and curved. So, my question is which way to go... chuck, collet, or PSI. If I go with the collet, it seems to me that I must always turn the blank (or antler) to round. I'm wondering if the same is true for irregular blanks with a chuck alternative.

Peter; Put the drill bit and chuck in the headstock.

Now carefully mark the position where the drill bit contacts the tail stock point. You do not want to run the drill bit into the tail stock point!!!

Make center dimples on both ends of the blank. Hold the blank with a pair of slip grip pliers, and put the dimple on the tail stock point. Now put the drill bit in the dimple on the other end and drill away. Stop short of the mark, withdraw the tail stock and complete the hole. You may want to make the blank a bit over long.

I remember seeing a video on this but don't see it on YouTube or here in the library

 

[Russianwolf]

What randy said.

Or alternatively, mark the two points you want the center to be and put the blank between centers using those points. Turn the blank round and then you can switch to either the collet or scroll chuck for drilling.

I've used this method when I want the tube to follow a path that may not be the exact center of the blank. Maybe the pattern I see in the wood hints at greatness that would be lost if I went with the "stock" drilling point.

This also lets you true up the ends before drilling. Sometimes, especially on antler, the end may want to deflect the bit from where you want it to go. by turning round first, you can easily trim the end fairly square to keep the bit from wandering.

 

[Mickey]

What randy said.

Or alternatively, mark the two points you want the center to be and put the blank between centers using those points. Turn the blank round and then you can switch to either the collet or scroll chuck for drilling.

I've used this method when I want the tube to follow a path that may not be the exact center of the blank. Maybe the pattern I see in the wood hints at greatness that would be lost if I went with the "stock" drilling point.

This also lets you true up the ends before drilling. Sometimes, especially on antler, the end may want to deflect the bit from where you want it to go. by turning round first, you can easily trim the end fairly square to keep the bit from wandering.

+1

This way irregular sizes are no problem. Matter of fact you really only need to turn down one end to 3/4 to fit in the collet and then switch to it.

 

[tool-man]

With antler I use a slightly different procedure which you might want to try.

I do not turn the entire blank round. I mark the desired center point on both ends. Then I mount between centers and just round one end for maybe 3/4" (as Mickey said). I then mount the rounded end in a scroll chuck. As I tighten the scroll chuck I carefully maintain alignment of the other end's desired center point. I drill a shallow starter hole with a center drill (no wander tendency). Then drill with the required size drill.

I square the ends with an end mill after the tubes are glued in place.

Sometimes, especially on antler, the end may want to deflect the bit from where you want it to go. by turning round first, you can easily trim the end fairly square to keep the bit from wandering.