Just call me knot head........

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AceMrFixIt

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Quarter sawn oak and purpleheart. I like the contrast. What do yall think?
 

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Randy_

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In most pens you see with the knots, the individual bands are usually thinner than the ones you have crafted. It is a personal preference and says little about the skill of the pencrafter; but I do prefer the thinner bands.
 

AceMrFixIt

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Randy, What saw do you use? I used table saw with 1/8 kerf blade. Made an adjustable sled to change the angle of the cut. Next try will be with a band saw. Any tips on cutting the thin inlay??
 

VisExp

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Randy, What saw do you use? I used table saw with 1/8 kerf blade. Made an adjustable sled to change the angle of the cut. Next try will be with a band saw. Any tips on cutting the thin inlay??

Get a Freud 7 1/4" circular saw blade and mount it on your table saw. The kerf is 1/16". You will lose some in the depth of the cut as you will not be able to raise the blade as high, but you should still be able to make the cuts for the Celtic cross easily.
 

jttheclockman

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You can get freud blades that are 3/32" wide. I am working on some right now. Will have to see how they turn out. Mine never seem to line up properly. I always seem to clamp too tightlyly and this throws things off. What makes your knots seem big also is the fact you used 45 degrees as your cuts. 60 degrees streches it out abit more. Nice work though.
 

Randy_

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Randy, What saw do you use? I used table saw with 1/8 kerf blade. Made an adjustable sled to change the angle of the cut. Next try will be with a band saw. Any tips on cutting the thin inlay??

Rick;

I have a plywood blade made by DeWalt that is 7-1/4" for my circular saw. It has about 140 teeth and a 1/16" kerf width or thereabouts. The stock number is DW3326.

As mentioned earlier, it works just fine on the table saw; but you do not have the depth of cut you would with a 10" blade. (I have just a hair over 2" of depth) You can get even thinner cuts if you have a band saw.
 

Randy_

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.....Mine never seem to line up properly. I always seem to clamp too tightly and this throws things off......

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the above; but there is a technique where you use a slightly oversized blank and do not cut all the way through the blank.....just cut a slot in the blank and leave about 1/32" so that the "two pieces" of the blank do not move around relative to each other. Also important that the inlay pieces are exactly the same thickness as the kerf width.
 

jttheclockman

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Yes I have seen the method of not cutting all the way through. The problem is I am starting off with a 3/4" blank. so it does not leave much meat left. I am using the proper thickness inlay. But what happens when I glue the pieces back together they slide up too far and you can not seee it until you un clamp it. Will have to give the method you mention a try. My next hurdle will be drilling these dead center of the knot. That means alot too. Still practicing but I will get it.
 

Randy_

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Did you see the drilling tip posted recently by a new member who's name escapes me.

It involved a wooden base clamped to a dp table and a nail just protruding through the wood? If you haven't seen it, I will try to find it.

Other possibility would be to drill on the lathe if you have either a scroll or a collet chuck.
 

jttheclockman

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No I did not see that tip and yes I would be very interested. I am always intested in others problem solvers. This is how I have learned things over the years. Hopefully I too have helped people in this manner.
 
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