Jacobs chuck

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Yeah it took me more time than I care to admit to figure out how to remove the live center.

The short version is retract the tail stock all the way back and the live center should pop out. Mine was stuck on and I had to mess with it.
 
http://www.newwoodworker.com/JWL1236tips.html

this site explains a little more look under "Tailstock Spur Removal" he is useing a different model jet but the process is the same. Post back if you have more questions.
 
Originally posted by swm6500
<br />Any way to use a Jacobs style chuck in the tailstock of a Jet Mini Lathe? Does not look like it has a Morse Taper.
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The Jet mini has a #2 Morse taper at the tailstock as well. Like others have mentioned, retract the live center all the way to dissengage the taper.

Fangar
 
Be real sure your Jacobs chuck has a Morse taper of the correct size(MT#2) for JET mini. If you have a Jacobs chuck that was meant for a drill press it will probably have a Jacobs taper and will not be compatible with your JET mini. You can buy adapters that will convert from Jacobs tapers to Morse tapers and visa versa. I got one from Grizzly for about eight bucks.
 
I bought mine for my Jet mini Lathe at Woodcraft.
1/2" Keyed Chucks (item "B" in the photo below)
I use it in the headstock to turn small dowels and miniatures, and in the tailstock for drilling and boring.

PS.. Its on sale right now for $24.99

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Originally posted by Randy_
<br />Be real sure your Jacobs chuck has a Morse taper of the correct size(MT#2) for JET mini. If you have a Jacobs chuck that was meant for a drill press it will probably have a Jacobs taper and will not be compatible with your JET mini. You can buy adapters that will convert from Jacobs tapers to Morse tapers and visa versa. I got one from Grizzly for about eight bucks.
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Don't understand that, Randy. Isn't a Morse #2 a Morse #2?
 
Originally posted by Rifleman<br />Don't understand that, Randy. Isn't a Morse #2 a Morse #2?
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Sorry if I wasn't clear. The point I was trying to make was that his chuck might have a Jacobs taper on the arbor rather than a Morse taper.
 
Most Jacobs chucks have a Jacobs taper hole. What you would need is an arbor with a Jacobs taper on one end and a #2 morse taper on the other. Your chuck should be engraved with the capacity and the size of Jacobs taper. The chuck & arbor together would look exactly like "B" in the photo above.
 
Okay so I have a question now. Where can you get just the Morse #2 taper for a jacobs chuck. I already have the jacobs chuck but need the taper.
 
I have the one from HF and have had real good luck with it. I even use it now to turn bottle stoppers and there is no play with good turns the result. The price could not be beaten.
 
Originally posted by Jerry Crice
<br />I have the one from HF and have had real good luck with it. I even use it now to turn bottle stoppers and there is no play with good turns the result. The price could not be beaten.
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Glad you are having success with that. Actually, most jacobs-style chucks are not intended to hold wood, just steel. There are identical LOOKING chucks that have the jaws shaped differently that are designed for wood dowels. They are in most of the major suppliers catalogs.
 
I recieved my Jacobs chuck from HF on Thursday last week. So, I had to play with it just a little. It works execellent. NO play and only .001 - .002 runout. I stuck a piece of wood in it and clamped it down. The turned results were even better than I had expected. If you need a 1/2" Jacob's chuck #2MT for your lathe, now is the time. They are on sale for $10.00 + shipping. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42340
 
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I have the "C" type and it works fine for everything I have tried, mostly just drilling tasks. But one less key to keep track of was a good choice for me.
 
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