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Trey

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Jul 15, 2014
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Location
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Hey all.

I have a problem, and am hoping that someone here has run across it and fixed it at one point or another.

I'm still a mandrel turner (can't afford to replace my stock with TBC bushings). :mad:
ANYWAY...My issue is with CA finishes. I'm trying to figure out how to take the blank off the bushings without destroying the end of the CA finish. Essentially when I cut the bushing off the blank, it bubbles the end of the finish and ruins the hard work. Prior to cutting it off, it looks perfect!:confused:
I have attached a picture for an example. Any help that you can provide would be much appreciated!
CAphoto.jpg
 
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When I first started making pens and finishing with the bushings on, I would cut through the CA with a box knife at the bushings. Now I finish sand and CA with the delrin (or whatever they are made of) tapered bushings. I'm also more careful of not running too much CA glue over the ends.
 
its been a while since I turned with a mandrel so i'll pass on that part but I will say that its happened to me more timed then I care to think about. I turn between centers with my stock bushings so theres no need to replace the bushings you have. a dead center will set you back less then you spend on some of those kits. well worth the change over.
 
When I did it I put a little johnsons floor wax on just the ends of the wooden blank and they seemed to not stick to the bushings. Just the way I did it, not saying it is the only or even the best way FWIW. Dennis
 
Several already posted ways...but...wax the bushings before you start turning, tap on a hard surface...your choice, use Delrin bushings for finish, they have nothing to do with mandrels.
 
+1 on all the above comments. Before I started using delrin bushings, whenever my steel bushings stuck to the blank, I would use a disassembly rod to tap them out. Never had a problem.
 
My wood blanks looked like that before, I thought is was moisture getting in between the CA and the blank. I stopped wet sanding wood blanks.
 
I switched to the cone delrin bushings. You get 4 in a pack and they fit any size tube because they are tapered, and clean up easily by dropping in a jar of acetone.

Another tip, I don't know what kind of wood that is, but when I use oilier woods like rosewood or cocobolo, I always make sure to wipe the blank down real good with denatured alcohol to remove the surface oil. I do this until the rag comes off clean with no oily discoloration. Just make sure to let it dry for a few minutes before adding glue or your glue will turn white from the moisture. It will allow your glue better adhering to the wood and maybe cut down on the potential of the finish lifting.
 
I too vote for delrin bushings. I actually bought a rod and made my own. I think I paid about the same for a three foot piece as the factory ones cost. I know mine are not as smooth, and may not last as long, but I used only about 5 inches to make a set, so I have like 6 more sets in the rod. :)
 
I've finished on a mandrel with applying a little bit of paste wax to the bushings. That helped quite a bit.

Delrin finishing cone-shaped bushings are nice if you're using a mandel, but it's another thing to buy.

If you have a 60 degree dead center, you can put that in your headstock and just go for it without any bushings--just be careful you don't crank things down on the tailstock so much you ruin the pen. I've found out that this works best for me, and just enough pressure with the tailstock to keep things from slipping.
 
Another possibility. Might be when you cut around the bushing to remove the bushing, there could be a small amount of CA glue on the blank. If it it is not removed before you press the blank, it will cause that's bubble effect. I use a razor blade to trim the excess CA from the end of each of the blanks before pressing. It makes a big difference.
 
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