how long should I wait after CA

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Magicbob

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Oct 10, 2012
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I have been finishing with CA with pretty good results but,
Today I applied 8 coats of thin waited about 10 minutes and assembled the pen, during which the finish smudged a divot.
That is to say, a 3 dimensional mark caused by my thumb pushing and moving the finish.
This was a pen for me to carry at work, so no biggie, in fact SWMBO didn't notice it, but I know.
I am getting ready to make a large number of wood pens with a CA finish, so I don't want a repeat.
Should I wait over night, 2 days, a week.....when is it rock hard?
 
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toddlajoie

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I always wait at least overnight from the last application before I finish the pen. I will often rough sand (400-800 grit) and measure just to be sure it doesn't need any more coats, and if the CA finish thickness is where I want it to be, it will sit overnight, or while I finish the second barrel, before I sand to 1200, MM, and buff...
 

plantman

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Green Bay, Wi
I finish my pens with 8 coats of thick CA, applying accelorator after the 4th and last coat. I finish sand within several minutes and polish the blanks after that. Next I trim and seal the the ends with super dry nail polish, then assemble the pen. Total drying time, about 15 minutes, start to finish. I have applyed as many as 30+ coats of thick CA at once and never had it soften to the touch, but I apply accelorator after every 4th coat. Be careful what CA you use with the excelorator !! The brand I use works fine with thick CA, but will fume and turn white if applied to thin CA. Some other people have experanced just the reverse effect with the brand they use. If you apply several coats of CA without giving it enough time between coats to flash, (5-10 seconds), or do not even out the coats with a rapid side to side motion, the under lying coats may remain soft and not harden. Jim S
 
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robutacion

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Yes, the above mentioned by other members is applicable however, the waiting times have a lot to do with the temperature you are working under, in cold and humid places, the drying times are severely affect by it so, as the first precaution, after each CA coat, I would wait a little, a count to 20 will take about 20 seconds, if you don't rush, I will then give it a quick/light spray with the accelerator (I use it in between coats), these 20 seconds is what will determine if you CA surface goes white and bubbly or not, too soon after application is not a good idea, the thicker the CA you use the more prone you are to these troubles, if you don't let if air dry and then use the accelerator to set/cure what was added of CA to the previous coat.

The second suggestion is to double the amount of accelerator 20 seconds after you last application. While you may think that, all the CA layers are dry/set/harden from the wet sanding, micromesh, etc., it is not, even in hot places like Australia, many people prefer to finish it the next day but, I like to finish what I start, in one go so, I replace all those waiting hours with a trick I have used long ago, when restoring antique furniture and all those damn oils that take forever to dry by their own.

In the case with the CA on the pens, I use an electric heat gun on its higher setting, the secret is to work out how far you have to keep the heat gun from the blank, to prevent burning. The temp. you need is 60° celsius so, you turn the heat gun on (high setting) pointed in a safe direction and then, put your free hand in front of the heat gun muzzle, as far as you can reach, you then bring your hand in towards the heat gun until, you feel the heat but, it won't burn but still hot, there is your desired temp.

Now that you know the distance, you point it towards the ROTATING blank(s), moving the heat gun from right to left or viceversa to cover the whole surface of the surface you applied the CA on. You can always play safe and use your free hand to put just behind the turning blank, to make sure, you are not giving too much heat.

The left to right movement should last approx. 1 (one) minute, the lateral movement of the heat gun will prevent spot burning and allow the surface of the CA to heat and cool slightly in between each pass. The speed of those passes should be about 1 second on each way...!

This simple trick will do the same as a overnight drying, in fact, if you work place is very cold and you leave it in that environment all night, if you have really lots of coats of CA on that blanks, 10 ++++, you have a good chance that the CA is not totally cured/harden and if is not, the first thing can happen, is what happened to you, the second is the friction of the sanding on the CA surface can simple bubble up and separate from the wood and the third negative aspect of it is, if the CA is not harden enough, you will be removing more than twice the amount of CA, before you get it smooth and this is what causes the irritating dall spots, that we all like to prevent...!

I'm sorry if my answer to your question is a "bit" longer than most but, I would like to achieve the best results possible so, sharing all these details with you (and other in the same situation) will help you to resolve the situation you found yourself, in...!:wink::biggrin:

Cheers
George
 

wyone

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I never thought of using a heat gun to cure the CA. I have one sitting on my bench, although it is an industrial model that gets VERY hot, so most likely will have to maintain a pretty good distance. I think it can get to 1000 degrees F
 

robutacion

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I never thought of using a heat gun to cure the CA. I have one sitting on my bench, although it is an industrial model that gets VERY hot, so most likely will have to maintain a pretty good distance. I think it can get to 1000 degrees F

Use your hand to test it, starting far away as possible won't burn you, you bring it slowly forwards until you just cope for a few seconds, remember moving the gun sideways will avoid spot burning and if the highest setting is just too much, use the setting below that, and if you have an oven thermometer (cheap ones), use it to see where the 60 degrees are, no more...!

About 99% of resins and identical materials, require heat to cure, some have their own generated heat, such as the Polyester, others require a heat source to set. The general rule is that, resins, varnishes and products alike, require about 14 days to fully cure, the difference is, chemically cured as per formula requirements and the other is a primary setting/hardening stage, which allows the handling of the product in a safer manner but fully cured, is a very different thing altogether...!

Why do you think that, car and furniture spray booths have heating elements all over the walls...???:wink:

Cheers
George

Good luck,

Cheers
George
 
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