how is this connected?

[scjohnson243]

I admit it, I'm a real noob at this... I was looking for beginner projects I could start to do to work on my turning. I came across this guide on making "Mushrooms" I figured it was cute and I could give my wife a few for her garden or something... My silly question is how is this connected to the lathe? how is it connected to the headstock? I have a 4 claw chuck I think I can connect it with, but I'm confused because his looks like its screwed in...

Wood Turning Mushrooms: beginner's project

I was wanting to start trying some hollow forms but have not digested how to connect anything if the tailstock is not being used to put pressure on the headstock...

/scratches head...

I know he "Spells it out" but for someone that is just starting, I need it a little simpler (I know... I'm embarrased to ask)

I used to turn a tenon on the mushrooms, chuck them up and turn them, finishing off the cap on the lathe. Lately I find it just as easy and a touch faster to turn them between centers, pare off the top with a knife and cut the bottom on the bandsaw, and sand to finish. Here is one between centers, ready to go. I am not fussy about the piece being exactly centered since the sapling is not perfectly round and a bit off center lends character to the mushroom.

 

[southernclay]

Don't be embarrassed...I've yet to meet anyone on here that was born with this knowledge.

It looks like he is using a spur center in the headstock and a 60 degree live center in the tailstock.

If you don't have these two items you will need them. Lots of turning supply places sell them. If you don't have a 60 degree dead center pick one of those up too (won't need for this)

Looks like a cool little project, I may have to try out sometime so thanks for posting!

 

[monophoto]

The writeup is confusing because the author switches between how he does it now and how he used to do it. Basically, he is describing two different approaches to turning mushrooms:

1. Turning between centers. In this approach, the wood is held in compression between the headstock and tailstock. This requires some kind of 'dead center' in the headstock - the options are either a four-blade spur drive or a 'crown' drive (aka stebcenter). The tailstock must be equipped with a revolving or 'live' center, probably one with a cone or point. The mushroom is shaped with the base toward the headstock, and the top or crown toward the tailstock - it is necessary to carefully shape the top, leaving only a very small 'nub' that can be sanded away when the piece is removed from the lathe.

2. This option involves using a four-jaw chuck to hold the blank. Initially, the tailstock should be used to support the piece (that's a good rule to always follow - tailstock support helps prevent the piece from flying off the lathe and hitting you in the face). Once again, the base of the mushroom is turned toward the headstock, and the top toward the tailstock. After roughly shaping the mushroom, you can back away the tailstock and finish turning and sanding the top. Then, you can part off the base at the headstock.

Comparing the two - the 'between centers' approach requires the least investment in tooling (you don't need an expensive chuck), but it does require more turning skill. The approach with a chuck requires that you purchase the chuck, but it may be easier for newbies who haven't had that much practice turning.

 

[scjohnson243]

The writeup is confusing because the author switches between how he does it now and how he used to do it. Basically, he is describing two different approaches to turning mushrooms:

1. Turning between centers. In this approach, the wood is held in compression between the headstock and tailstock. This requires some kind of 'dead center' in the headstock - the options are either a four-blade spur drive or a 'crown' drive (aka stebcenter). The tailstock must be equipped with a revolving or 'live' center, probably one with a cone or point. The mushroom is shaped with the base toward the headstock, and the top or crown toward the tailstock - it is necessary to carefully shape the top, leaving only a very small 'nub' that can be sanded away when the piece is removed from the lathe.

2. This option involves using a four-jaw chuck to hold the blank. Initially, the tailstock should be used to support the piece (that's a good rule to always follow - tailstock support helps prevent the piece from flying off the lathe and hitting you in the face). Once again, the base of the mushroom is turned toward the headstock, and the top toward the tailstock. After roughly shaping the mushroom, you can back away the tailstock and finish turning and sanding the top. Then, you can part off the base at the headstock.

Comparing the two - the 'between centers' approach requires the least investment in tooling (you don't need an expensive chuck), but it does require more turning skill. The approach with a chuck requires that you purchase the chuck, but it may be easier for newbies who haven't had that much practice turning.

Thank you both!! I have a four-jaw chuck, I have not used it very much, all I have really done is turning on pens and use my pen mandrel for that.

I had no idea I could back off my tailstock when I had something in the four-jaw chuck, guess it makes sense though... I know what gouges are, because thats all I have been using for the pens, but how do you do the "Underside" of the mushroom... it has to go back "in" to the head of the mushroom, would I still use a smaller gouge for that? I know bowls and such have hallowing tools, but I dont have any of those yet....

Thank you all again, I have been reading a lot, but unfortunately most of the information keeps going over my head... More and more is making sense, so hopefully it will keep getting clearer and clearer...

Thanks all.

 

[monophoto]

I know what gouges are, because thats all I have been using for the pens, but how do you do the "Underside" of the mushroom... it has to go back "in" to the head of the mushroom, would I still use a smaller gouge for that?

That's exactly what you do - approach the blank with your gouge at an oblique angle so that you can undercut the top of the mushroom.

 

[Jim Burr]

And there are some really cool DVD's and youtube stuff that break things down so even I can understand them. Hash it out and post the results!

 

[scjohnson243]

I need to get a spur drive for my headstock, this seems like a good deal - Would anyone recommend or recommend against it?

7 Piece Multi Spur Drive Center Set at Penn State Industries

 

[randyrls]

I had no idea I could back off my tailstock when I had something in the four-jaw chuck, guess it makes sense though... I know what gouges are, because thats all I have been using for the pens, but how do you do the "Underside" of the mushroom... it has to go back "in" to the head of the mushroom, would I still use a smaller gouge for that? I know bowls and such have hallowing tools, but I dont have any of those yet....

Steven; When at all possible you should leave the tailstock in place. It is much safer. It is possible to "lever out" a piece of wood held only by the head stock. Depending on the size of the mushroom you are intending to make, one of your first purchases should be a safety face shield. Get a good one rated Z87+ (the plus sign is important!) Think of it this way.... It's cheaper than reconstructive surgery.

 

[scjohnson243]

Thanks Randy, I do have a good faceshield on order right now.. I can leave the tailstock in place for the mushroom project, but I would like to learn how to make hollow forms also, so it would be important then.

Thank you for the advice!

 

[Jim Burr]

Thanks Randy, I do have a good faceshield on order right now.. I can leave the tailstock in place for the mushroom project, but I would like to learn how to make hollow forms also, so it would be important then.

Thank you for the advice!

no fac

 

[Jim Burr]

Thanks Randy, I do have a good faceshield on order right now.. I can leave the tailstock in place for the mushroom project, but I would like to learn how to make hollow forms also, so it would be important then.

Thank you for the advice!

no fac

 

[ironman123]

Seems to be a morse taper on one end and a threaded mandrel on the other and the wood screws over it like on a bottle stopper mandrel.

Ray