Gary Max
Member
This is how I make a cross inlay---may not be the best or fastest but it works for me--I tried to take the enough pics to get you started.
How I make a Cross inlay
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Very good, Gary. I would be interested in the next step too. ie; sinking it into the wood.[
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If I may make a suggestion though, don't cut all the way through the little block. That will guarantee that the horizontal and vertical part of the cross will always line up perfectly[]
]If I may make a suggestion though, don't cut all the way through the little block. That will guarantee that the horizontal and vertical part of the cross will always line up perfectly[
]Gary Max
Member
You right about the lining up---but then your stock has to match the thickness of the saw blade.
Did you notice that I started with two blanks and ended up with 4----I cut them in half---makes the inlay just a tad over 3/8 thick.
And I knew you where going to ask so------
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First I draw the outline of the inlay----drill a hole 3/8 deep--the safest way to remove the rest of the would be a dremal tool. I use thick CA and a clamp to press the cross into the blank, If you take your time you can get a good fit. Not perfect just good.
Did you notice that I started with two blanks and ended up with 4----I cut them in half---makes the inlay just a tad over 3/8 thick.
And I knew you where going to ask so------
First I draw the outline of the inlay----drill a hole 3/8 deep--the safest way to remove the rest of the would be a dremal tool. I use thick CA and a clamp to press the cross into the blank, If you take your time you can get a good fit. Not perfect just good.
Gary, on a inlayed cross your cross material can be thinner than your kerf. Please don't think I'm undermining your work. I'm only posting this cos I like you[]
Here I cut an off cut with a bandsaw. The kerf is about 1.5mm I think. To make the point, I will make the cross out of kitchen foil, which is very thin.
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In this pic you can see how loose the foil is, in the bandsaw kerf.
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Lightly hold the wood in a vise and fill the kerf with your chosen glue. I used CA for this, and then slip the foil into the glue filled slot. Now crank the vise up to close the slot. The little bit of uncut wood will just crush.
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Clean up the extra foil and do the next cut.
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Squash it in the vice again and you should end up with something like this.
<br />
]Here I cut an off cut with a bandsaw. The kerf is about 1.5mm I think. To make the point, I will make the cross out of kitchen foil, which is very thin.
In this pic you can see how loose the foil is, in the bandsaw kerf.
Lightly hold the wood in a vise and fill the kerf with your chosen glue. I used CA for this, and then slip the foil into the glue filled slot. Now crank the vise up to close the slot. The little bit of uncut wood will just crush.
Clean up the extra foil and do the next cut.
Squash it in the vice again and you should end up with something like this.
GBusardo
Member
Thanks Gary, Someday I will try it, not sure I have the patience for it, but I hae a few friends that would love to get one at Christmas time.
txbatons
Member
Thank you Gary for taking the time to post the photos. I've been watching these cross pens closely and want to give it a whirl pretty soon.
I noticed that the third inlay doesn't fit perfectly in the dremeled inset. How do you fill in the rest so it isn't too noticeable?
I noticed that the third inlay doesn't fit perfectly in the dremeled inset. How do you fill in the rest so it isn't too noticeable?
Rifleman1776
Member
Gary, you have spoken some of my thoughts. These are lovely pens and will make great gifts. However, to resell, the time and effort involved are very unlikely to translate into selling prices high enough to justify that time and effort, IMHO. My most popular product (pen) is the European made from either Bethlehem Olive Wood or Dogwood with a Christian cross clip. I'll get $5.00 to $10.00 more for those than a standard Euro and adding the clip takes neither time or talent but the buyers love them. Also, the clip shows when the pen is being carried in a shirt pocket. Inlays, despite being beautiful and a statement of the makers craftmanship, do not show.
GaryMGg
Member
FWIW, I've sold several of the cross inlay pens using blanks made by Eagle.
They ALL brought a return on investment that far exceeded many other pens I've sold.
I'm neither bragging nor trying to do anything to promote the blank maker but a fact is a fact. Y'all can also be sure that EVERYONE who buys a cross inlay blank from Ron Mc will also make a handsome return if they're selling theirs.
When I make time to make my own cross inlay blanks, I'll post the results on IAP.
Gary
They ALL brought a return on investment that far exceeded many other pens I've sold.
I'm neither bragging nor trying to do anything to promote the blank maker but a fact is a fact. Y'all can also be sure that EVERYONE who buys a cross inlay blank from Ron Mc will also make a handsome return if they're selling theirs.
When I make time to make my own cross inlay blanks, I'll post the results on IAP.
Gary
fstepanski
Member
Gary,
Thanks for laying out the cross building process, very cool!! Like skiprat's suggestion too. Damn this is a cool place...
Thanks for laying out the cross building process, very cool!! Like skiprat's suggestion too. Damn this is a cool place...
great12b4ever
Member
Gary, thanks for the tutorial and also to Skiprat. Very helpful. Gets me to thinking aboutmaking a jig to route out a small oval of the correct sixe, then a second jig/pattern to edge route the inlay... hmmm! just might have to work on that thought.[]
Rob
]Rob
Rifleman1776
Member
I'm pleased to be mistaken on a subject like that. Aside from the creative satisfaction, what the market will pay is a paramount consideration.
Texatdurango
Member
Poppy
Member
Ditto, I hafta agree.[
]papaturner
Member
I have to agree with George. Thanks for the instruction to Gary and skiprat.
Perry
Perry
bonsaibill
Member
It also works pretty well to make the cross on an oversized slab and then use a plug cutter to cut down into the slab with the cross centered in the plug. Then use a bandsaw to free the plug. Now you have a perfect circle with a cross in it. Now take the blank and use a forstner bit of the same size to make a hole that the plug fits perfectly. This works well, if you want a circlular insert and not an oval one.
jeffj13
Member
Couldn't you create an oval by following this procedure and simply angling the inlay and blank?
jeff
Rifleman1776
Member
GaryMGg
Member
Further to the subject, I hope no one thinks my post was intended to say it's all about the money.
I make lots of pens for pure pleasure and have given many away.
I also sell my pens. When selling a pen, I believe we should be financially rewarded for the quality of our craft and artistic presentation.
I'm also saying that those who don't make their own cross-inlays and want to make pens with that, there's a cost-justification as well as an artistic satisfaction in using these blanks. [8D]
I make lots of pens for pure pleasure and have given many away.
I also sell my pens. When selling a pen, I believe we should be financially rewarded for the quality of our craft and artistic presentation.
I'm also saying that those who don't make their own cross-inlays and want to make pens with that, there's a cost-justification as well as an artistic satisfaction in using these blanks. [8D]
Gary Max
Member
Hey Gary-----I am in it for the money. I price my pens by what the finished product looks like. Not how much or what did that cost me to make-----of course that has to play a role in the price but the bottom line is How good of a pen is it.
I really believe that folks will pay for workmanship and the more they see the bigger the price.
Here's the first of the four blanks done---Amboyna--Ivory and Turq.
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I really believe that folks will pay for workmanship and the more they see the bigger the price.
Here's the first of the four blanks done---Amboyna--Ivory and Turq.
Daddy1
Member
George & Skiprat,
Great tips, Now quit being shy, can we see a completed pen? And when do you drill hole for tubing before or after inlay is in place. I assume after?
Great tips, Now quit being shy, can we see a completed pen? And when do you drill hole for tubing before or after inlay is in place. I assume after?
Daddy1
Member
Ooops,
I pays to page to the 2nd page. Sorry Gary didn't mean to call you George.
Gary that is beautiful. I have a church full of folk who would pay extra for that pen. I may give it a whirl.
I pays to page to the 2nd page. Sorry Gary didn't mean to call you George.
Gary that is beautiful. I have a church full of folk who would pay extra for that pen. I may give it a whirl.
Gary Max
Member
That's alright as long as you are saying good things about my pen you can call me George----[]
The part of the USA that are in is sometimes called the bible belt----these pens are very good sellers.
When I first started making cross pens we would just cut out a cross in the pen with a dremal tool and fill the hole with glitter and CA.
They have come a long way and there will still be newer models to come.
]The part of the USA that are in is sometimes called the bible belt----these pens are very good sellers.
When I first started making cross pens we would just cut out a cross in the pen with a dremal tool and fill the hole with glitter and CA.
They have come a long way and there will still be newer models to come.
stevers
Member
Been wanting to know that quite a while. Thanks for taking the time and posting.
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