Headstock problem on Rikon . .Fixed sorta

[leehljp]

Can someone maybe give some advice on a headstock problem with my Rikon lathe? I figure there is not much that can be done, but I thought I would at least ask.


INSIDE: Any MT2 drives inserted into the headstock has perfect run out. Smooth!

OUTSIDE: But, anything that is added to the outside, - screwed onto the 1 inch threads has serious run out. Nearly unacceptable run out - .05 inch. The outside threads are not machined to the inside tolerances. BUT, I think the problem is in the seating more than with the threads themselves.

I have a Grizzly chuck (http://www.grizzly.com/products/H6265) and at first, I attributed the run out to the chuck quality.
Then I ordered a Beale chuck set in July. It does the same thing. Imagine having a Beale chuck set and visually seeing run out. In spite of this, the Grizzly chuck does a fair job of letting me drill on the lathe.

I think the problem is here: IMO, the Grizzly and Beale should "seat" (my words) onto the threaded head, bringing it into alignment and tolerance. Both the Griz and Beale "seat" firmly, but out of acceptable tolerance.

I can accept the tolerances issue with the grizzly chuck for drilling blanks, but the Beale chuck set really causes pens to be out of round noticeably. After buying the Beale and discovering the problem, I changed to the "no mandrel" method for finishing. However, I still would like to use my Beale set.

MY FAULT:
Since I didn't start using a chuck regularly (only pen mandrels) until early last spring, I didn't notice the problem. And since I have it with me here in Japan, I feel I waited too long to get Rikon to do anything about it.

Suggestions? Is it a seating problem, or threading problem? Or look somewhere else?

Thanks

FIXED NOTES IN POST BELOW.

 

[Dario]

Can you use a "washer shim"? Once you get it right...mark and glue the washer to the headstock side. Not sure if this will work but I think it will.

I would experiment using cutoffs from thin soda bottles if I were you.

 

[leehljp]

Thanks Dario, I will look into this. It is late Sat night now but will experiment with it a try tomorrow afternoon.

Meanwhile, if others have more suggestions, I am open to all.

 

[LostintheWoods]

Couldn't cost anything to talk to Rikon and see what can be done. Possibly they have encountered this, and there is a "fix" or technique to counteract the problem you are having.

 

[LEAP]

Hank, I think I would call Rikon regardless of how long you have had the lathe. You never know what the response will be and at the worse case all it cost you is a phone call. Please keep us posted. I also have a Rikon and once I adjusted the head fitting a little its been true.

 

[leehljp]

Thanks for the tips. I am going to try Dario's suggestion; If that doesn't work, I will email Rikon on this. I ordered a new belt and a spare last spring from them and they were quick to respond via email.

 

[alamocdc]

Lee, just make sure the faces of the washer are as parallel as possible. Otherwise you'll end up with the same problem. This may well solve your problem because I've read that some chucks aren't threaded deeply enough to square up against the spindle shoulder. The washer will sit squarely against the shoulder and give the chuck the face it needs.

 

[polarbear1]

I love my rikon and had to call them twice for small repairs needed -- I had it less than a year, they mailed it out to me right away no charge. I purchased a spare belt to be ready when needed but after 300 or more pens and 50+ bowls and other items my original belt is holing up. Rikon has been great to work with each time i needed them

 

[leehljp]

Originally posted by alamocdc
<br />Lee, just make sure the faces of the washer are as parallel as possible. Otherwise you'll end up with the same problem. This may well solve your problem because I've read that some chucks aren't threaded deeply enough to square up against the spindle shoulder. The washer will sit squarely against the shoulder and give the chuck the face it needs.

I have some close tolerance sheet metal (brass 2.0 mm) that I am going to make my washer out of. I don't trust most hardware store bought washers. I have individual hole bits for making washers up to 2 inches in diameters OS and and have made them before.

 

[leehljp]

SEATING PROBLEM FIXED.

I made a brass washer out of 2 mm sheet brass. Put it on the lathe and added the Beale, pulled it up tight. Same problem. Loosed it and rotated washer, retightened the Beale, and for some reason it smoothed out a bit.

I took the washer off, sanded the head stock where the Beale seats against just a tad. I noticed how soft the metal was as it scratched easily. That led to another thing. I got an old chisel (heavy one), put the tool rest up close and to an angle to the head stock seat. Turned the lathe on set at its slowest speed. There was a small bit of vibration which told me that it the face plate was not flat. I moved the speed of the lathe up to about 1000 rpm and with my old heavy chisel ran it across the face of the the head, trying to move the chisel in like I would a parting tool. It was like machining in a way, and smoothed it up. If I knew of a good machine shop around, I would take it and have them machine it flat and 90° to the shaft.

I worked on the back plate more tonight.
Now with Beale pulled up tight, run out checked out to .002.5 at the mandrel. Not bad being done by hand. I added the Grizzly chuck and it was much better too. I am a happy camper.


I will email Rikon and let them know of this. When I bought the Rikon, it was one of the first ones released after a while of not shipping. It seems like in the fall of '05 the Rikon had some problems with this lathe and production was stopped - at least one fellow said that when I called looking for them in December of that year. WoodCraft was one of the first to get some when they did ship. I ordered mine in early February of '06 and received it a week later.