Has anyone used PSI's lathe mounted buffer?

[sbwertz]

We have very limited space at the center for the blind, but I would really like to set up a buffing system for them. It seems like one of the lathe mounted systems would be ideal for them.

Has anyone used the one from PSI? It looks like it would fit on our little Jet lathes. Is there another one that is better?

 

[its_virgil]

I have, use and love this one: https://www.pennstateind.com/store/BGBUFF.html

I got it from Barry Gross (who actually sells them to PSI) at Arizona Silhouette - Suppliers of Eye Candy, Offering Exceptional Pen kits and turning project kits for the Wood Turner

Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[Carl Fisher]

If you're talking about the 2-wheel setup with the blue buffing rouge, yes I used it heavily until I got a dedicated buffing station.

I also found a source for the blue compound - or one extremely close to it for much cheaper per bar.

 

[mecompco]

I have the three wheel version from PSI. I keep it on my spare lathe. It does what it's supposed to do.

Regards,
Michael

 

[robertkulp]

I have used both of their systems, the two-wheel BGBUFF and their copy of Beall's three wheel system, PSI's LBUFFSYS. They both work very well, but Beall's is much higher quality than the LBUFFSYS. Of course, it costs almost twice as much, too.

Beall's three wheel system and PSI's LBUFFSYS are both rather long and barely fit on a Jet 1014. PSI's smaller BGBUFF system from Barry Gross fits very nicely, but is only for acrylic and glossy CA finishes. The three wheel systems work with acrylic and CA, as well as friction polish, shine juice, etc. on wood turnings.

For your purposes, I think I would recommend either of the three wheel systems. Beall's is better, but more expensive. PSI's should work fine for your needs. One note about PSI's instructions... At one time, they did not tell you that you needed to "de-fuzz" the wheels first. Beall's instructions gives very good details about this and is very important to do before you start using them.

Also, please keep in mind that it is very easy for a seeing person to have pen blanks snatched from you hands (been there, done that) and shot across the room. I would be even more cautious with turners who are vision impaired.

Check out the instructions and videos at Beall's web site at The Beall Tool Company The videos use a bench buffer instead of a lathe, but you'll see how it's done.

I really like the buffing mandrels for the lathe since they don't require a dedicated machine. Of course it's great if you have the lathe and the space to leave one set up, but you don't have to.

 

[sbwertz]

Thank you so much for the info. I talked to Andi Sullivan, and she also recommended the one from Arizona Silhouette. That is the one she has for the blind center in Tampa. So I will be contacting them.

She recommends leaving the blanks on the mandrel for buffing so the blind students can keep a good grip on them. She uses it for both wood and acrylic, but we both use a CA finish on the wood, so that is basically an acrylic.

 

[mecompco]

Thank you so much for the info. I talked to Andi Sullivan, and she also recommended the one from Arizona Silhouette. That is the one she has for the blind center in Tampa. So I will be contacting them.

She recommends leaving the blanks on the mandrel for buffing so the blind students can keep a good grip on them. She uses it for both wood and acrylic, but we both use a CA finish on the wood, so that is basically an acrylic.

Although I don't use a mandrel for turning, I always put my blanks on one with the bushing for buffing. I've found that the buffer can round the ends of the blank if you don't. It also make a good handle.

 

[edman2]

I use the 2 buff one as well. I bought the MT 1 version because I had an old inexpensive unused Harbor Freight mini lathe and so I use it only for buffing. Works pretty good for that and I never have to change out the system.

 

[jondavidj]

I use that one and love it! Of course Robert Kulp set the 3 one up for me, but I use that one more than anything else.

 

[sbwertz]

Thank you so much for the info. I talked to Andi Sullivan, and she also recommended the one from Arizona Silhouette. That is the one she has for the blind center in Tampa. So I will be contacting them.

She recommends leaving the blanks on the mandrel for buffing so the blind students can keep a good grip on them. She uses it for both wood and acrylic, but we both use a CA finish on the wood, so that is basically an acrylic.

Although I don't use a mandrel for turning, I always put my blanks on one with the bushing for buffing. I've found that the buffer can round the ends of the blank if you don't. It also make a good handle.

I turn between centers at home, but down there I use the mandrel and put extra bushings on each end to act as spacers to keep the headstock and knurled knob further away from the work. Saves on tools and nerves!

 

[Old Codger]

I have BOTH the three wheel PSI buffing system and the single wheel system from PSI and I couldn't be more pleased with either one! The three wheel system is great for those turnings that require all three of the polishes (?) and the single wheel system is great for bowls and those systems that only require the carnuba final finish. Try them, you'll love them, especially the price!

 

[TellicoTurning]

We have very limited space at the center for the blind, but I would really like to set up a buffing system for them. It seems like one of the lathe mounted systems would be ideal for them.

Has anyone used the one from PSI? It looks like it would fit on our little Jet lathes. Is there another one that is better?

Sharon,
I don't have the PSI buffer or even know what it looks like, I do have Don Pencil's buffer system that I like, but before I got it, I have a home made buffer on my little 1014.... I went down to Lowe's and picked up 3 buffing wheels... about $6 each, a length of all thread 3/8" or 1/2" not sure which now... and nuts and washers to fit the all thread, one on either side of the wheels plus one to use as a stop on the end of the all thread that I put in my little chuck jaws... the other end fits in a live center on my tail stock... all told I have about $20 in the buffer. And since it's one unit, I can take it off the lathe and hang it overhead in the rafters of my shop out of the way. I actually use the home made buffer more than the Don Pencil... it's quicker and easier to set up and not so many loose pieces.

 

[Sylvanite]

I have PSI's 3-wheel 2MT buffer. I used it for years and was happy with it. The only reason I stopped is I moved on to dedicated bench buffers. I've also taken to using blue buffing compound after white diamond on plastics and finishes (and a bare buff after that). I don't bother with carnauba wax.

I hope that helps,
Eric

 

[robertkulp]

Leaving the pen blanks on the mandrel is a great idea for providing a better/safer grip for you students, but there is one big thing to watch out for. Buffing the bushings will turn the wheels black with tarnish. Been there. Done that. What might be better is to drill out some 3/8" HDPE or Delrin rod and replace the bushings before buffing. It's more work, but should keep the buffing wheels a lot cleaner.

 

[sbwertz]

Leaving the pen blanks on the mandrel is a great idea for providing a better/safer grip for you students, but there is one big thing to watch out for. Buffing the bushings will turn the wheels black with tarnish. Been there. Done that. What might be better is to drill out some 3/8" HDPE or Delrin rod and replace the bushings before buffing. It's more work, but should keep the buffing wheels a lot cleaner.

We always finish with the delrin bushings, so that is what is on the mandrel. (They make it easier for them to determine where the blank begins and ends when sanding and finishing...as well as protecting light colored blanks from getting the dark stains from the steel bushings.) I do have some Delrin rod. I am going to try making my own finishing bushings. I've made them from hard maple before, when our local supplier was out of stock on the Delrin. (They get lost easily. They drop into the shallow boxes we keep under the lathes to catch sawdust. The steel bushings are easy to fish out with a big magnet, but the delrin can be hard to find! Since two of my trainers are visually impaired, sometimes they just disappear. I found one the other day that had bounced into the little hole on the base of the drill press!)