Goblets

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theartist07

theartist07

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lenoir, nc, USA.
I had a friend ask me to make a pair goblets, well no problem. The thing is they want to be able to drink out of them, i can understand that but i have no idea what i am suppose to use to finish them with so it will make it possible for them to use them. If anyone has any ideas on this i would greatly appreciate it if you would let me know.

Thanks for any returns on this,
Jim

I think i'm going with the plexiglass, just about got it right now you have to add the acetone as needed ro avoid the milking look finish.
 

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I've looked at those myself, but they wanted them made from walnut ; the entire piece. I just can't figure out what to put in the cup part so that they can pour liquid in them. I'm still looking for a product and i'm not sure they even make anything like that. Thanks for responding, have a great day.

Still Looking,
Jim
 
Pure beeswax melted in the bottom will make them water proof. I used a heat gun on low setting after paring thin slices of wax into the goblet. A hair dry would work also. Do be concious of how much heat you are applying to your piece. You could probably use a double boiler to melt the wax first.

Regards, Steve
 
would the walnut oil not leave a taste, or does it need to cure[for a lack of better words]? If i use the walnut oil do i need to apply more than once? And the bees wax, if rinced out with hot water, what effect will this have on it. These may sound like crazy questions but i've never had to waterproof anything i've turned. In fact this is a first for making Goblets, but i did find there not hard to make. I greatly appreciate the returns on this, as always folks here are great when it comes to helping a fellow turner.

Thanks,
Jim
 
Any pure oil will work. You could use flax seed oil in it's pure form from a health food store. Of course you will have to wait a long time with any of these finishes for them to fully cure.
 
Here's an interesting article about food safe finishes from Popular Woodworking.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/finish3.html

According to this article and one from Fine Woodworking (issue 129) all finishes are food safe once they are cured. As long as it does not contain lead or mercury, due to the lack of evidence to the contrary all are safe. The main thing is to wait for the finish to cure so that you can not smell any solvent.

I think that it was in the Fine Woodworking article that said that finishes marked as food safe just contain a higher solvent content than finishes that are not specifically marked as food safe.

I make wine glasses using the CSUSA glass and I am having a local glass blower make some custom pieces right now. For the bases I use spray polyurethane to finish them. I have made some food scoops, basically a goblets with a side sliced off, and use polyurethane for them too.
 
Food safe...yes..most finishes are. However they usually will not hold up to an acidic wine or something of that effect. Think of a glass setting on a table and getting a ring from the condensation, or spilling something on a table and letting it sit. Any finish will require periodic maintenance to keep it working and looking good.

rodsaw said:
Here's an interesting article about food safe finishes from Popular Woodworking.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/finish3.html

According to this article and one from Fine Woodworking (issue 129) all finishes are food safe once they are cured. As long as it does not contain lead or mercury, due to the lack of evidence to the contrary all are safe. The main thing is to wait for the finish to cure so that you can not smell any solvent.

I think that it was in the Fine Woodworking article that said that finishes marked as food safe just contain a higher solvent content than finishes that are not specifically marked as food safe.

I make wine glasses using the CSUSA glass and I am having a local glass blower make some custom pieces right now. For the bases I use spray polyurethane to finish them. I have made some food scoops, basically a goblets with a side sliced off, and use polyurethane for them too.
Click to expand...
 
once again thanks for the replies, and i did read the artical Justin and that cleared up alot of things for me. Thanks to all of you that replied and if anyone has anything to add please do so. Thought i'd upload a picture of the first one, any comments are welcome.

Thanks,
Jim
 

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Jim,
As said, most finishes after fully cured will be food safe... Walnut has a little arsenic in the wood, don't know if that would leach out of not. I have a plexiglas solution that I've put in the bottoms of some of my goblets... just disolve plexi-glass in acetone and mop it around in there until you get a good coating-several coats.... I only use it in the inside. You'll need to be sure your inside is really smooth as the plexi will raise the grain just a bit... you can wet sand to bring it back smooth.
 
I've never worked with plexi before in this way. Would you mind giving me a few pointers on how you melt it down, i know that might sound crazy but i wanna get it right the first. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim
 
Just put the plexi in a jar with some acetone and the acetone will melt the plexi.

Do a search here on plexi and you should be able to find the posts about it. There's a lot of good info on the forum about it.

Here are a few links that have some good info:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39604&highlight=plexi
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36575&highlight=plexi

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5407&highlight=plexi


Your first goblet is gorgeous. Good luck with your finish.
 
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I have been using a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil for all my food safe finishes.

Do a Google search on 'beeswax and mineral oil' and you should find lots of articles with information.
 
Welcome to "treen" -- the brit term for wooden ware used in the kitchen and home. Plates, cups, goblets, scoops, and small containers --

People have been using wooden ware for centuries and it comes with some maintenance. Oils and waxes are easy to maintain. Film surfaces generally "go south" and are hard to maintain/resurface once cracks or chips happen.

Wooden ware does not do dishwasher!!! Death and distruction of wooden items is assured with dishwashers and time. Hand washing and occasional refreshing of an oil/wax surface is practical. Dishwashers combine heat, water, pressure, and some pretty agressive chemicals to get things clean, and those are not good things for wood and wood finishes.

Your finish is going to be a balance on use, durability, and repair/refinish. Plexi finishes are going to provide excellent durability of occasional use and hand cleaning. Once it starts to fail, it will need a refinsh. It can be viewed as a heavy duty lacquer style film finish with better durability.

Every day use suggests the waxes and polmerizing oils -- think Mahoney Walnut Oil or paraffin as good durable waxes. (Sorry -- but while Beeswax is traditional, it is really a set of esters that tend to attract water -- and I used to be a beekeeper and like it)

Suggest you stay away from CA as it breaks down with heat (about 190 or so) and any treen is likely to get hot sometime in its life. One oops with the dishwasher is a serious problem with CA glue (been there and done that -- the T-Shirt did not fit).

If you have open grained walnut, leave some meat in the goblet section and think about soaking it in hot wax to fill the pores. (And do avoid red oaks -- they will leak!!)
 
thanks to all that have posted, i didn't think i would get this many replies. And thank you Nancy for your kind comment; i will check out the links you sent. Any other thoughts or comments are always welcome.

Thanks again all,
Jim
 
Hi and thanks for your reply KenV. I went to wootturnerscatalog.com and ask about a product called "Waterlox", I received the following answer, " I would recommend not using a finish at all and overtime the liquids will create their own finish". This responce came from
Danny Lange
Customer Service Manager
Craft Supplies USA .

This don't make a whole lot of since to me, does anyone have any thoughts on this. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim
 
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