Following up on the last kitless I posted

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Fred Bruche

Fred Bruche

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Same basic shape (with slight changes for the cap to body ratio), same jowo #6 nibs, testing ideas with homemade blanks, feeble attempt at a stopper bar for the cap for one of them (but too small, doesn't really stop any rolling).
Both blanks were made using liquid diamonds resin colored with mica powders and/or alcohol-based dies, the wood in one of them is brown mallee burl. I still need to work harder on the finishing/polishing, still have a few more tweaks I want to try, so there will be more attempts as I am still having a blast making them :)
C&C welcome.


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Good job! I don't like to give unsolicited criticism, but since you asked:
1. One thing that I would suggest is when you are counterboring out the section to accept the nib unit, cut it deep enough to ensure the flange on the housing is at least flush with the end of the section, rather than sticking out. My personal preference is to have it slightly recessed.
2. It looks like on the green pen especially, you've cut a recess behind the cap threads. This seems to be a trend in penmaking lately, but I personally think it's a less than optimal choice. It creates a weak spot, and also makes for an awkward transition. Presumably you did this to allow the cap to screw down against the shoulder on the body. A better alternative would be to remove a few of the threads inside the lip of the cap, which would give you the same results, but not create structural or aesthetic issues :)
Good work though, and that green blank looks stellar. Keep it up!
 
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jalbert said:
This seems to be a trend in penmaking lately,
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John, there is nothing new about this trend, it's been done this way for years. And not only on pen blanks, but on most items that a person has threaded. I know that we've been doing it this way for at least twenty years, but I've not been turning pens for that long.

Len
 
jalbert said:
Good job! I don't like to give unsolicited criticism, but since you asked:
1. One thing that I would suggest is when you are counterboring out the section to accept the nib unit, cut it deep enough to ensure the flange on the housing is at least flush with the end of the section, rather than sticking out. My personal preference is to have it slightly recessed.
2. It looks like on the green pen especially, you've cut a recess behind the cap threads. This seems to be a trend in penmaking lately, but I personally think it's a less than optimal choice. It creates a weak spot, and also makes for an awkward transition. Presumably you did this to allow the cap to screw down against the shoulder on the body. A better alternative would be to remove a few of the threads inside the lip of the cap, which would give you the same results, but not create structural or aesthetic issues :)
Good work though, and that green blank looks stellar. Keep it up!
Click to expand...

I absolutely appreciate the feedback John, and your points are well taken. And this is exactly why I add C&C welcome when I post work and also post close-up pictures.
For the section, I was going for a flush fit with the nib (which I slightly miss sometimes) but your idea of having it recessed makes sense as well.
I actually did both, cutting a recess behind the body threads and removed a couple of threads in the cap. This was somewhat following what I've read in some posts and/or saw in pictures (and to parallel what is done in other items such as turned boxes), but I admit that I haven't put too much thought into it or experimenting. I agree that aesthetically it would be preferable to not have the recess, so if cutting a few threads is sufficient I will certainly try that.
Again, comments and critics, good or bad, are always welcome.
 
Lucky2 said:
John, there is nothing new about this trend, it's been done this way for years. And not only on pen blanks, but on most items that a person has threaded. I know that we've been doing it this way for at least twenty years, but I've not been turning pens for that long.

Len
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This is not the norm in penmaking, and only seems present in the custom pen realm. Do you have examples of pens, vintage or modern designed in this manner? While this may be common practice in machining to create a runout area when threading under power, it is unnecessary when making pens.
 
jalbert said:
This is not the norm in penmaking, and only seems present in the custom pen realm. Do you have examples of pens, vintage or modern designed in this manner? While this may be common practice in machining to create a runout area when threading under power, it is unnecessary when making pens.
Click to expand...
I agree with you here John. Although It's interesting that Richard Kleinhenz in The Pen Turner's Bible shows it both ways in his two examples of kitless fountain pens. In the one using taps and dies for cap threads he uses a runout groove while he doesn't in the one with single pointed threads. No explanation given.

By the way, for anybody who doesn't have it, this is really a great book to own, especially a beginner.

Bill
 
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