First knots

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graningwood

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Here is my attempt at a double Celtic knot. It is made with birch and walnut with a ca finish. Please all comments welcome.



200796132339_doubleceltic.jpg


200796132359_doubleceltic2.jpg
 
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jedgerton

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That looks great and I just have to find the time to try it myself. I've read the tutorials I've been able to find and I'm still confused about (at least) one point. Do the laminations that make up the knot have to be the same thickness as the saw kerf? If so, how do you guys get wood planed to the same thickness as your saw's kerf? I'm hoping the answer is obvious and I've just missed some critical point.

Any help would be appreciated.

John
 

GaryMGg

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John,

Have a look here for another explanation: http://www.thepenshop.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6715

George's (texatdurango) tutorial is still the best out there.
Yet, my photo explanation seems to have helped a bunch of folks over the edge.

I use a sled with my planer -- it allows me to get below the typical 1/8 - 1/4" limitation.
Alternatively, I've also ripped a long thick board, making the offcut the proper thickness.
If you get real close, you can always use a belt sander, hand plane or scraper [my preference] to fit the kerf perfectly.
 

tipusnr

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Reynoldsburg, OH, USA.
Nice work.

Gary, could you tell me more about your thickness planer sled? I have been trying to design one for my 12" thickness planer that likes the wood to be at least 10" long.
 

GaryMGg

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Bill,
These sleds should give you workable solutions:

For short stuff, I use this sled or one like it. The short piece rides in the sled.
It's just a square milled piece of cherry scrap with a stop:
planerSledSm.jpg


For longer pieces, wherein I simply need to get it thinner than normally possible:
planerSledLg1.jpg


planerSledLg2.jpg


Someone made a comment about having sharp blades. I agree; if the blades aren't sharp
in your planer, what's the point?!? I keep mine sharp! [:D] [;)]
 
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