I have tried to finish this blank in the same manner that I finish other inlace acrylester blanks (regular sandppaper to 600 grit followed by wet MM to 12000). This seems to work beautifully on the conventional inlace acrylester blanks. However, the gold pulsar blank is not smooth and appears to have an "orange peel" effect at the end of the process. I expect this is somehow due to the metallic looking specs within the blank. Has anyone used this type of blank with the correct smooth, shiny iridescent result?
Finishing problem with gold pulsar inlace acrylester (woodturnerz #72)
- Thread starter lapdog
- Start date
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Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
Can't say that I've had a problem but I haven't used that particular blank before. Pictures may help identify the problem. Do you MM wet or dry?
Monty,
A picture will really not show what the problem is since it is more obvious by feel.
Since CA is often used to fill isolated pits in some of the acrylic aggregates, do you think it is worth a shot to sand back down to the beginning and use CA somewhere during the sanding process to attempt a smooth glossy finish. If so, exactly when during the sanding and MM process should the CA be applied? In addition, should denatured alcohol be used at any time to clean sanding dust off of acrylester blanks?
I am willing to experiment with any type of possible fix. Since I am a newbie, it will be just another step in the process of learning.
A picture will really not show what the problem is since it is more obvious by feel.
Since CA is often used to fill isolated pits in some of the acrylic aggregates, do you think it is worth a shot to sand back down to the beginning and use CA somewhere during the sanding process to attempt a smooth glossy finish. If so, exactly when during the sanding and MM process should the CA be applied? In addition, should denatured alcohol be used at any time to clean sanding dust off of acrylester blanks?
I am willing to experiment with any type of possible fix. Since I am a newbie, it will be just another step in the process of learning.
randyrls
Member
I have had problems with the relative hardness of inclusions in PR. You get a "bumpy" finish. I have sanded the blank using a backer piece of wood to ensure the surface is flat.
I use wet/dry sand paper with water to lube the sand paper and MM. Remember to sand lengthwise to remove circular scratches, and wipe ad clean the blank and sand paper between grits.
Oh; And cover the ways with something to keep rust to a minimun.
I use wet/dry sand paper with water to lube the sand paper and MM. Remember to sand lengthwise to remove circular scratches, and wipe ad clean the blank and sand paper between grits.
Oh; And cover the ways with something to keep rust to a minimun.
hewunch
Member
when those metal flakes come out it leaves little voids. I had to put a few coats of CA on it and then buff it out like normal.
NewLondon88
Local Chapter Leader
I have to wonder if heat is distorting the material at all, giving you this problem.
The uneven surface you're describing seems to be happening after turning, so I can
assume that you've turned it round. In my imagination, the only way for it to come
back OUT of round would be for certain portions of the material to expand or contract
while others do not.
I have NO idea if this is what's happening, but it is one thing I'd be looking into. I'd
sand slow and wet, resting often to let things stay cool.. and stopping at the first
sign of heat.
The uneven surface you're describing seems to be happening after turning, so I can
assume that you've turned it round. In my imagination, the only way for it to come
back OUT of round would be for certain portions of the material to expand or contract
while others do not.
I have NO idea if this is what's happening, but it is one thing I'd be looking into. I'd
sand slow and wet, resting often to let things stay cool.. and stopping at the first
sign of heat.