Finishing ebonite

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t001xa22

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2011
Messages
441
Location
Arlington, TX
I have a repeat regular customer who loves well-marked, defined ebonite. This person is very discriminating in choosing various ebonite blanks. As to the finish, he requires that the material be allowed to display its own inherent sheen and luster. I have made 3 pens for him in this way, and I attached some pics of them. As he puts it "...ebonite is not what it is meant to be if it is covered by a glassy, glossy topcoat...". For these reasons, I finish the blank with all levels of MM, and stop. Ebonite, being a multi-laminate of rubber, does not necessarily need any top protection, and because it is rubber, most applied topcoats would not adhere well, IMHO. Anyway, you be the judge.
 

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ed4copies

Local Chapter Manager
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Mar 25, 2005
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24,537
Location
Racine, WI, USA.
There are different opinions on this.

For ME, I figure ebonite is a hard rubber. IF I buff it to a nice gloss, it will stay glossy, with an occasional furniture wax on the part of my customer.

Others will say you should put a protective coat on it--lacquer is one of the favorites.

I believe the most difficult part of making ebonite is getting off all the scratches. To accomplish this, I use white diamond buff wheel and very little pressure. Inspect often!!
 

18111

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Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
80
Location
New York
I don't have much experience but I don't put any protective coat on ebonite unless you color it. Just like any other plastics mm to 12000 and plastic polish. That it. I can fill the void with CA though.
 

t001xa22

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2011
Messages
441
Location
Arlington, TX
There are different opinions on this.

For ME, I figure ebonite is a hard rubber. IF I buff it to a nice gloss, it will stay glossy, with an occasional furniture wax on the part of my customer.

Others will say you should put a protective coat on it--lacquer is one of the favorites.

I believe the most difficult part of making ebonite is getting off all the scratches. To accomplish this, I use white diamond buff wheel and very little pressure. Inspect often!!

Ed, I agree with you. I was citing my own experience with my one customer who has distinct wants and tastes. He is an avid collector of vintage pens, and is telling me how the original ebonite and vulcanite barreled pens were done. I think I should have been more forth-coming in my original narrative, because obviously my way is certainly not the only way; it was customer requirements. My biggest problem during fabrication was heat, but as we all know, by using a sharp, fresh drill bit, frequent cooling of the bit, and finally use of sharp cutters, like the carbide insert types, the final result is a lot easier to attain.
 

ed4copies

Local Chapter Manager
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
24,537
Location
Racine, WI, USA.
Hey Bill!!

We typed at the same time--I did not see your reply before I wrote, so nothing I typed was meant to refer to your answer.
 

scotian12

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Joined
Sep 9, 2007
Messages
985
Location
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.
The best ebonite shine that I have ever seen is the pen done by Curly....see thread started by Curly dated 11-04-2012 Show Off Your Pens...Little Black Number....on page three he explains his method of getting that shine. Darrell
 

Brooks803

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Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Messages
5,632
Location
Aiken, South Carolina
I've done a couple different methods. I don't put any sealing finish on mine. I like the feel and warmth of the ebonite. It does scratch VERY easily!

If I want a satin finish on ebonite I'll use EEE paste wax ON the sandpaper and work up to 600-800grit. Then apply EEE one more time with a paper towel and done.

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n496/Brooks803/DSC02739700x540_zpsf047e747.jpg

If I want it super shiny I do it just like PR. MM all the way up to 12000 and apply plastX

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n496/Brooks803/DSC01968700x325.jpg
 
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