Finish for Black Walnut

[Bobostro61]

Not sure if this is the right forum for this question, but I have a pepper mill to give as an Xmas present that I made and have yet to put on a finish. The blank was a piece of Black Walnut. I'd like a glossy finish on it but I'm not familiar enough with finishing products to know if I'm going to use the right stuff or not. I was thinking a CA finish, but that seems like an awful lot of CA for a 9" pepper mill. Any suggestions on products? Thanks.

 

[Bobostro61]

Actually it's 10". Here's what it looks like right now.

 

[penmaker1967]

i use poly on my black walnut pens they shine really well hope this helps

 

[sbwertz]

Enough coats of Woodturner's Finish will give it a nice shine.

 

[monophoto]

You probably want something that will be hardy enough to withstand frequent handling.

My suggestion would be to apply a coat of sanding sealer, and after it dries, denib it with the highest grade of sandpaper you used in finishing the wood. I suggest that because black walnut tends to have an open grain that will leave gaps on the surface if not treated with a sanding sealer.

After the sanding sealer treatment, apply multiple coats of WOP, denibbing lightly between coats.

 

[robutacion]

You probably want something that will be hardy enough to withstand frequent handling.

My suggestion would be to apply a coat of sanding sealer, and after it dries, denib it with the highest grade of sandpaper you used in finishing the wood. I suggest that because black walnut tends to have an open grain that will leave gaps on the surface if not treated with a sanding sealer.

After the sanding sealer treatment, apply multiple coats of WOP, denibbing lightly between coats.

This is in fact a good suggestion, the sanding sealer will do wonders on that wood and the preparation for the top coating that can be one of many gloss varnish's available where you are.

If you were in Australia, I would be suggesting the use of Floorseal Oil made by Feast Watson. They recently changed the names of some of their products this one was called Floorseal (only). This is one of my best finishes and durability, easy application and shine, a floor finish that is as liquid as water that is easy to spray on and leave...! This is a Tung Oil based stuff..!

It's no easy to made recommendations when we are in different countries, we all have different products and products names to deal with but, the "basics" do apply all the same...!

Good luck,

Cheers
George

 

[Bobostro61]

You probably want something that will be hardy enough to withstand frequent handling.

My suggestion would be to apply a coat of sanding sealer, and after it dries, denib it with the highest grade of sandpaper you used in finishing the wood. I suggest that because black walnut tends to have an open grain that will leave gaps on the surface if not treated with a sanding sealer.

After the sanding sealer treatment, apply multiple coats of WOP, denibbing lightly between coats.

OK, you lost me in the last sentence. What is WOP?

 

[reiddog1]

Wipe on polyurethane.

 

[SDB777]

I'm in the process of finishing some Black Walnut RingMaster bowls...

I used a coat of sanding sealer...Minwax.
And I am currently on the second coat of Polycrylic...Minwax. I figure at least another three coats with sanding between to get a thick, glossy coat on the bowls.

Why polycrylic? Easy, I had plenty of it already.




Scott (WOP is fun too) B

 

[Brian G]

I encourage you to consider walnut oil or Watco Danish Oil (natural color) before a film finish. You'll enhance the grain and darken the walnut. Make sure the oil had dried before applying the film finish.

 

[Bobostro61]

Awesome. Thanks for all the great tips. Sanding sealer with the WOP seems to be the best way to go to me. I'll post a pic when its all finished.

 

[TellicoTurning]

You've already finished the mill so I'm late to the party, but you can use the same polyurethane as a sealer... I use the full strength poly, sand lightly between coats and then top with the wipe on.... the sanding sealer won't hurt and will do equally as well as the poly.

 

[edstreet]

Lets see here, Walnut has a very unique look with oil and CA will never come close to matching that look.

Teak

Tru

Danish

Tung

Unlike CA, oil is kitchen safe, food safe and all that, will never wear off, crack, blister, cloud etc..

 

[nava1uni]

CA is not really meant as a finish. It works on pens, but it does eventually break down. Pepper mills get a lot of use and are subject to a lot of wear and tear. The CA will craze and chip off if it is subjected to a hit against a surface. CA does not do well in these circumstance. Preserve the beauty of the wood and don't plasticize it with CA.

 

[cmrm]

I'm new so please tell me on my bottle stoppers (4" or so tall mostly) and peppermills, I too was thinking that is a lot of CA. I only have CA (several bottles) and I have a 16 oz. bottle of Ron Brown's Finishing Polish. I know it is walnut oil based. If I don't use CA on these, is this RB's FP enough and after what levels of sanding starting with what grit? Thanks so much!!

 

[cmrm]

Actually my next few blanks for bottle stoppers are black walnut and mahogany... thanks!