fancy glue up - nearly worked

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skiprat

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Oh well, I'll just have to try again. This is made from my latest source of scraps, but I used the fast CA instead of thick slow,to do the glue up and now you can see the joints between the black strips.:([}:)]

2007415215036_glueup.jpg




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oldtoolsniper

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Skiprat,
I just wanted to tell you that your work is an inspiration to me. You are well outside of the box. The downside is now I have to save everything because it could become a pen. What more could a new pen turner want? [:D]
 

Pikebite

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Steven .... I can't see the problem from here. Can you send me the blank and any others you have messed up so I can see the problem from up close.[;)] Just in the interests of improving my turning.
 

JimGo

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I like that - kinda looks like the $ sign - which is what you could charge for it (at least to those of us who appreciate the time/effort/planning that goes into it!).
 

skiprat

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Wow, thanks for cool comments. You really can see glue lines esp when its polished up. The black is plastic flower pot, and the copper is water pipe cut into strips. The copper goes all the way through so the pattern is the same on the other side.

I'm want to try save it, does anyone have any idea how I can make the whitish glue line black? Maybe a dye or stain?

BTW, it took me over half an hour just to drill the hole for the tube.I made sure the bit stayed cold and lubed it with WD40 too.

[:D]
 

workinforwood

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yea, scrape the glue out best you can. use two part epoxy and just a drop of black paint. I just use the oil base paint you get at micheals, artist paint, about a 2 ounce bottle costs 50 cents..and easy to squeeze out a single drop. mix it up and spread it into the cracks. Tape the blank to your bandsaw or scroll saw table and turn it on for about 5 min. The vibrations help get the epoxy down in there and removes any possible bubbles. Expect then to wait about 3 or 4 days before turning it again, or sanding it. Let that epoxy cure extra good and hard...the paint makes it take longer, but it's worth the wait.

I love all the copper idea's. Your comments on the heat from drilling should be capitalized with an even larger font. Just for those that don't think of it, the heat generated in drilling copper melts the CA glue, or epoxy glues causing everything to blow apart. Copper makes and carries heat extra fast too. You almost need to submerge the object in a bucket of water while drilling.
 

oldtoolsniper

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I use powder graphite for black epoxy inlays on tables and such. It didn’t seem to cause as many problems as the paint route did for me. Remember the epoxy will shrink a little so leave it proud if possible. I would test it on scrap as well since we cast in plastic and the resin pops right out.
 

Darley

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Originally posted by skiprat
<br />Wow, thanks for cool comments. You really can see glue lines esp when its polished up. The black is plastic flower pot, and the copper is water pipe cut into strips. The copper goes all the way through so the pattern is the same on the other side.

I'm want to try save it, does anyone have any idea how I can make the whitish glue line black? Maybe a dye or stain? try black CA for your glue up

BTW, it took me over half an hour just to drill the hole for the tube.I made sure the bit stayed cold and lubed it with WD40 too.

[:D]
 

Fred

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Excellent ided you have here, Great Job! I don't see any "joint" around at all. Maybe you rolled it to tight and it rolled off onto the floor? Just kidding of course. If the joints really are there I would imagine a bit of dust from sanding would fill in the joints. You could then seal the joints with thin CA and turn again. Just keep the dust somewhat proud of the surface and give the CA plenty of time to set. Avoid the use of accelerant as the CA might turn somewhat cloudy and thus be very visible. Keep the group advised of your efforts. We all learn from the mistakes of each other ... [:D]
 
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