I am making book covers that are 13" by 13" and 1/2" thick. They are made out of curly maple and I am having serious wood movement issues. I know maple is prone to this, so I have been machining it slowly. The machining went well, and I just started the finishing. This is where all went wrong. I used water based poly since I didn't want it to yellow. So I did the insides of the covers first, and when I went back to add another coat I realized that the covers had bowed tremendously. If I hold a straightedge to the outside of the panel there is about a 1/8" gap in the middle. I am assuming the water in the poly swelled the panels. Is there anyway to fix this without tearing them apart. I assume if I finish the other side it won't swell to the same extent, and I will be left with the bow. I really need to complete this project as I am making them for my sister and I have to have it done this week. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Emergency help with flatwork needed
- Thread starter gatornick
- Start date
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marcruby
Member
For one thing, maple will yellow on it's own over time. I was going to give you a complicated recommendation that might have worked which finally came down to steaming and refinishing. You can pm me for that if you want, but personally I'd start over and use a good rubbing poly.
SuperDave
Member
... issue is not putting the same finishing material (with equal coats) on both sides...
You need the same number of coats on each side. If you coat the other side, with the same number of coats, there is a good chance it will even out...
Dave
You need the same number of coats on each side. If you coat the other side, with the same number of coats, there is a good chance it will even out...
Dave
J
jackrichington
Guest
curly maple is not as stable as quartersawn wood...you are asking a very unstable wood at a very thin thickness to not react to moisture..heat..cold..humidity changes etc
Rarest wood
Member
make veneer out of the maple and stick onto ply
Thanks for the replies. I new I was playing with fire with the maple. I should have known better. If I had time the veneer idea is a good one. I am going to see what I can do to somewhat salvage this one, and I will never attempt another one. I have a scrap piece the same width and thickness, so I will experient with that and maybe get lucky. I will let you know the outcome (most likely failure). Thanks.
artistwood
Member
i would suggest a fiberglass lamination but i don't know what you still have to work with. i build kayak paddle blades that are slightly over 1/8" thick and they will support well over a hundred pounds....i can put the tips between 2 supports and lift my 280 with no problem. they flex but don't break. if i need a really flat piece, i lay it up with fiberglass-wood-fiberglass between some flat surfaces (cutting boards work) covered with saran wrap. i use 4oz cloth from jamestown distributors and either PR or Epoxy with a 207 clear hardener (the PR doesn't have the yellow tint) pm if you need more info
Here is a quick update. I put a damp paper towel on the other side and took a quick iron to it, and it flattened it right out. Then when I applied the finish it curled it the other way. At least now when the book will be closed it will curl into itself. That I can live with. We shall see if it holds, but so far so good. I learned my lesson though, and won't make another one of solid wood.
artistwood
Member
if you check this forum for canoe project, there is a picture of my kayak paddle hanging above my canoe. it's 1/8" thick. i did an album cover for a friend last year out of walnut veneer that was thinner than that. it had 1/64" veneer with 4oz fg cloth between the walnut and covering both sides. it got sandwithced between to pieces of plexiglass while it cured. it's still flat........