Ebonite Characteristics

[Ed McDonnell]

I've been experimenting with altering the physical characteristics of PR for a couple different projects. I'm getting interesting results. As I was playing with one of the rods that I made that had some flexibility to it, I began to wonder what the physical characteristics of ebonite are. Specifically, does it have any flexibility to it and how hard is the surface (dent with a fingernail?).

Of course, if I had ever turned ebonite I would know this. And I suppose I could just buy a rod of ebonite and answer all my questions. And I probably will, but for now I would really appreciate any answers that anybody who has worked with ebonite could provide.

Is a ~5/8" rod of ebonite flexible? Can it be bent / deformed (without breaking) or is it rigid (like PR / Alumilite)? Will ebonite break if bent too far or put under too much stress?

Is ebonite porous? Does it absorb liquids it comes in contact with?

How hard is ebonite? Dents / scratches with a fingernail? Very scratch resistant?

If you left an ebonite rod / pen on the dash of a closed up car in the sun in the summer heat, what would happen to the ebonite?

Are there any colors that ebonite should never be?

Is the change in color of ebonite over time (oxidation? UV deterioration?) a desirable characteristic for pens?

Is the smell of ebonite a desirable characteristic for pens?

Thanks for any and all replies.

Ed

 

[Displaced Canadian]

I can answer a few. Ebonite is not flexible. Until you cut into it and smell it you would think it is plastic. It machines very well. I also found it is easy to get to a basic shine but a real adventure to get all the fine scratches out. I have made 2 pens from ebonite and have given both away. I'll know more about how it wears in a few months.

 

[ed4copies]

Consider that ebonite was the "fore-runner" of plastics, used in pen making. So, we can probably surmise the characteristics will be VERY similar.

A pen that goes limp would not be well received. However, if left in high heat, that might happen (as it might with acrylic).

When properly used and stored, ebonite acts like plastic. It is more difficult to remove scratches, but it is usually very dark base color. Black plastic shows scratches more readily too, so again they are similar if not identical.

Cutting and machining ebonite DOES create a stench. "Burning rubber" is not an attractive quality.

Hope that helps,
Ed

 

[Ed McDonnell]

Thanks guys. I guess when they say "hard" rubber, they really mean "HARD".

I've read all the posts here that describe the horrible smell while turning, but I've also read (elsewhere) stuff that seems to imply that ebonite pens have a unique smell to them. I haven't been able to determine if the people writing about the unique smell of ebonite pens consider it to be a positive or negative attribute. Or if they are just delusional and there really is no smell (or if I'm just not understanding what I'm reading, which is a possibility).

Thanks for the info.

Ed

 

[dow]

Thanks guys. I guess when they say "hard" rubber, they really mean "HARD".

I've read all the posts here that describe the horrible smell while turning, but I've also read (elsewhere) stuff that seems to imply that ebonite pens have a unique smell to them. I haven't been able to determine if the people writing about the unique smell of ebonite pens consider it to be a positive or negative attribute. Or if they are just delusional and there really is no smell (or if I'm just not understanding what I'm reading, which is a possibility).

I've made some pens out of ebonite, and I really like the material. While it does have an odor, it's more like sulfur than any kind of burning rubber smell, which makes sense when you think about it. After all, ebonite is vulcanized rubber, and has a high sulfur content (30-40%, I've heard). I find that it machines very well, and that it polishes very well, too. The characteristic smell of ebonite will come back when the pen gets warm, too. For instance, I took my current carry pen out of my shirt pocket to show my doctor on my last visit, and the heat from my body was enough to bring a hint of the sulfur smell out. Either that, or I've been deluding myself about the state of my soul. :devil::biggrin:

See if you can pick up a blank of it. Good stuff, and you'll never know until you try it whether it's a good smell or a bad smell or what.

 

[flyitfast]

Thanks guys. I guess when they say "hard" rubber, they really mean "HARD".

I've read all the posts here that describe the horrible smell while turning, but I've also read (elsewhere) stuff that seems to imply that ebonite pens have a unique smell to them. I haven't been able to determine if the people writing about the unique smell of ebonite pens consider it to be a positive or negative attribute. Or if they are just delusional and there really is no smell (or if I'm just not understanding what I'm reading, which is a possibility).

I've made some pens out of ebonite, and I really like the material. While it does have an odor, it's more like sulfur than any kind of burning rubber smell, which makes sense when you think about it. After all, ebonite is vulcanized rubber, and has a high sulfur content (30-40%, I've heard). I find that it machines very well, and that it polishes very well, too. The characteristic smell of ebonite will come back when the pen gets warm, too. For instance, I took my current carry pen out of my shirt pocket to show my doctor on my last visit, and the heat from my body was enough to bring a hint of the sulfur smell out. Either that, or I've been deluding myself about the state of my soul. :devil::biggrin:

See if you can pick up a blank of it. Good stuff, and you'll never know until you try it whether it's a good smell or a bad smell or what.

Hmmmmmmm.........body heat.......sulfur smell..........hint, :biggrin:
Dow, I've seen some of your ebonite pens - they are really great.
g.

 

[Donovan]

I have made a few pens out of ebonite and find it very nice to work with. The ease of working with it makes the smell tolerable, polishing it is something ells especially if you want a high shine on the finish.
Donovan

 

[Krazekajin]

I have recently begun to turn fountain pens (Statesmen kits) out of ebonite. I turned on that was high quality black and found that it was very difficult to bring it up to a high gloss without seeing micro sanding swirls and scratches. I then turned a blue swirl ebonite and had the same thing. I have found that for me I sand each grit with lathe turning and then I shut the lathe off and hand sand length wise each blank through all grits. Even up to the micro mesh sanding sponges.

I then polish it on my buffer wheel with a loose flap wheel and white polish. I believe that an ebonite pen is one the more classy and comfortable pens to write with.

 

[Ed McDonnell]

Thanks to a very generous member (who I'm not sure wants to be publicly outed, so I won't) I have a really nice piece of ebonite sitting on my desk. I've been trying to think up a new pen design that will be worthy of this material. I hope, in the not too distant future, to be able to share a picture of my first ebonite pen in all it's glory. At least I hope we'll be talking about glory and not gory.....


Ed

 

[dow]

On the question of polishing the blank after you've turned it, I have had very good luck with using micromesh wet. I use mineral spirits instead of water, as it evaporates and won't rust the lathe surfaces. I've been finishing that way for almost as long as I've been doing pens, and it has at least three real benefits over dry sanding:

• Wet sanding helps keep the micromesh from getting clogged up with sanding dust, so it last a LOT longer.
• The blanks aren't as likely to heat up when wet sanding as they are dry.
• Since the tailings produced by the sanding are wet, a quick swipe with a paper towel cleans the blank up really well for the next grit of micromesh.
• Also, wet sanding doesn't produce those microscopic bits of pen blank to float around in the air like dry sanding does.

After going through my micromesh, I finish up with Novus2 applied on a lint-free cloth and polish with that. I've got some buffing wheels and buffing compound, but I don't use them very much.


This is the method that I use on all of my pens, whether CA over wood, cebloplast, trustone, ebonite, or whatever. It has served me very well.


Oh, one more thing. When your micromesh gets really dirty, you can wash it in a mesh bag in the washing machine with your clothes. Let it air dry afterward. :biggrin:


Hopefully some of this rambling has helped.

P. S. use nitrile gloves when you wet sand with mineral spirits. Otherwise, your hands will dry out.