drilling dymondwood blanks

[jssmith3]

Hi, I am trying to drill some dymondwood blanks to make some pens and every time I drill one it blows. I have tried drilling REAL slow, using water to keep it from overheating, and slowing the speed of the drill press. Does anyone have any suggestions, I refuse to give up but will run out of blanks soon, I know these blanks are very old and don't know if that makes a difference or not. This is making me worried about what will happen if I do finally get the holes drilled then what will happen when I start turning them!
Any help would be appreciated.
Janet

 

[Rifleman1776]

You have stated the reasons why I don't like to do dymondwood. Even with a successful drill, it can blow on the lathe. Even with success on drill and lathe, the laminations can just separate months later. But, to answer your question, use a vice, brad point bits drill slow, back out often, let bit cool. Pray.

 

[knottyharry]

The dymondwood is very hard. But personally I have never had one blow out while drilling. And I don't use water.
I do however hold the end of my small shop vac up next to the blank while drilling....It help to keep things cooler.
I drill it slow, and count while I drill. Like one thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three, and pull the bit out. I do not apply a lot of pressure, but always run my drill press at about half speed,and remove the bit often. It is a good idea to stop drilling once in a while to let everything cool down.
Give us some info on other things.
Are you using a vise of some kind to hold the blank?
What kind of bit are you using?
Are you drilling on a drill press?
How much of the blank is above the vise when you are drilling. Try to keep the part of the blank you are drilling in the vise area...and not too far above it. Move it as you go if you have to.
Harry

 

[Fangar]

Harry gave some good advice above. Good thing too, cause I can't count above three!

Fangar

 

[Russb]

If you are not using one now I would suggest a "bullet point" bit. Second choice would be a brad point.....

 

[jssmith3]

Hi guys, thanks for the great advice, Harry, I am using a brad point drill bit in my drill press and using a large wooden clamp to hold the blank. I had my first success this evening finally by believe it or not not going all the way through the blank and cooling the bit off every time I pulled it out with a wet papertowel. It turned out beautiful when I finally finished it but then didn't know what finish to use so I micro meshed it to 12000 then used a plastic finish I had read about. Once I figure out how to download pictures I will put a pic of it in my folder. Thanks again for everyones help

Janet

 

[Gary Max]

I am working on a bunch of Dymondwood that is old. My plan of attack is to us some thin CA on the blanks after they are cut to lenght. I figure a couple of drops and let them sit overnight should do the trick.

 

[Rudy Vey]

I drill it fast and use my shop vac nozzle directly at the bit, but also clear out chips often backing out the drill bit several times. Use parabolic bits, they clear the chips very good. Have not have on blank blow out this way and I am doing a lot of Dymondwood. I personally think drilling slow does generate more heat, which is always bad.

 

[Jcraigg]

Janet I am by no means a expert but when i drill Dymondwood I wrap a piece of tape around the bottom so if it does blow out all the pieces are there to ca back together I drill at the lowest speed and use water to cool the bit and blank I only go a 1/4 of a inch at a time back drill bit out and spray water in the hole till full and drill some more. But be carefull the water will act as a accelerator an CA and it will set up real fast so I let them set for awile before i glue them up .

 

[ed4copies]

Janet,

If possible, make your blank about a quarter inch LONGER than you need.

Drill to within an eighth of the bottom, go back to band saw and cut off undrilled portion, exposing hole.

Also, after tubes are inserted and glue dries, CAREFULLY square off with sander or pen mill (Mill is tricky). THEN, before turning, put thin CA on the milled ends and let dry overnight. (Be liberal, this will also reinforce any existing separations between the laminations).

Then, turn as usual (of course, turning from the end inward to avoid shattering the ends).

NOW, WASN"T THAT SIMPLE!!! Of course, the average customer will suggest that the pen should be worth about $5 (just a little less than you paid for the blank and the kit!!!)

Good luck and good turning!![]