Drill chuck taper slips in my tailstock,any solutions?

[ossaguy]

Hi All,

I have switched to drilling on the lathe,and lately I've had a few scary moments when I'm backing off on the tailstock to draw the bit back out,the chucks taper slips out,then the whole thing gets twisted and starts to fly out,but luckily I'm fast at getting it shut off so no injuries,but it scares me!

The last time I gave it a few raps with a rubber mallet and that seated it tight,as it was hard to get it knocked back out.I just hate having to rap anything in the tailstock,and every other taper I have fits secure with just pushing it in.

The taper isn't dinged up,and I did buy it new about 2 yrs ago.

So now I'm questioning if I'm even doing it right.

Thanks for any thoughts/tips!



Steve

 

[thewishman]

That used to happen on my Jet pretty regularly. Don't remember happening it since I got the Delta. What kind of lathe are you using?

 

[hunter-27]

well as there is nothing "powering" the drill in the tailstock I usually just grasp it to keep slight pressure on it as I back it out. As everything under power is in the headstock I don't feel it to be an unsafe practice.

 

[wb7whi]

Hi All,

I have switched to drilling on the lathe,and lately I've had a few scary moments when I'm backing off on the tailstock to draw the bit back out,the chucks taper slips out,then the whole thing gets twisted and starts to fly out,but luckily I'm fast at getting it shut off so no injuries,but it scares me!

The last time I gave it a few raps with a rubber mallet and that seated it tight,as it was hard to get it knocked back out.I just hate having to rap anything in the tailstock,and every other taper I have fits secure with just pushing it in.

The taper isn't dinged up,and I did buy it new about 2 yrs ago.

So now I'm questioning if I'm even doing it right.

Thanks for any thoughts/tips!

Steve

If it is a constant problem might consider making a drawbar. Use one all the time on the headstock.

 

[Dalecamino]

Dumb question......do you have the TS cranked all the way back? If so, crank it forward a bit. Make sure you have a little drag on the lock lever. Sorry, but, that's all I have. Never heard of this problem. Good luck.

 

[JimB]

Also make sure the taper on both the drill chuck and tailstock are clean so it seats properly. Even a little sanding dust can cause it not to have a good fit.

 

[robutacion]

I agree, the draw-bar is the easiest, most economic and safest/efficient way to keep the chuck from moving out...!

I'm not sure if all chucks have the thread end but the ones I've seen have, including the ones I've got (4), do.

It will be easy to mach the thread, if you take it to a good hardware store and find a bolt that is just the right size and length to fit thought your tailstock. A few extra washers to make the final adjustments and the only thing you need is a spanner tool to work the bolts' head to tighten and loosen...!

Good luck..!

Cheers
George

 

[Bree]

Make sure you don't have any grease or cosmolene in there. That will wipe out the traction and it can slip easily.
:wink::wink::wink:

 

[ossaguy]

Thanks for all the replies.

The lathe is a Delta 46-460.I know about not having the TS cranked all the way in,as about 1/2 inch is the place where it pshes it off,and I make sure it's clean in the taper,and on the outside.

I've never heard of a drawbar,but I think That's what I'll try.I'll have to see if it's got threads in it.that sounds like a safe solution.

Thanks guys!

Steve

 

[nava1uni]

Clean the tail stock. Use a taper mate or a cloth with a dowel. I clean the tailstock weekly for grease and wood dust.

 

[monophoto]

I agree, the draw-bar is the easiest, most economic and safest/efficient way to keep the chuck from moving out...!

Unfortunately, it's not necessarily a sure fix.

My Jacobs chuck has a morse taper shaft that fits in either the headstock or tailstock of my lathe. However, there is a second taper that attaches the chuck to the morse taper shaft (a J33 taper). A drawbar certainly will capture the shaft in the tailstock (or headstock), but it won't assure that the chuck remains attached to its shaft.

I've had similar experiences. The basic issue is that the drill bit is being captured in the workpiece. Backing off the tailstock quill puts a force on the shaft that is applied equally to the morse taper and to the bit inside the hole in the workpiece. If the bit is binding in the hole, it may be able to resist the force more than the taper.

My experience suggests two solutions. First, always back the quill slowly. That way, if things come apart in the wrong place, you can see it and react before things get hairy.

Second, the underlying problem is the bit binding in the hole, and the primary cause of that is not periodically backing the quill out to clear dust and shavings out of the hole.

So my bottom line is that if you drill the way the experts tell you, and periodically back out the quill to clean the hole, you won't have a problem. But if you take the shortcut of not keeping the hole clean, your bit will overheat, the shop will fill with smoke as the inside of the hole in the workpiece is scorched, setting off the smoke alarm and causing your significant other to panic and start screaming, and you may pull the Jacobs chuck out of the tailstock.

 

[GColeman]

You can't use a draw bar in the tail stock. The draw bar must thread into the shaft of the chuck and then be secured thru the tail stock. If you do that, the tail stock will not be able to be advanced using the crank wheel. I guess you could advance the tail stock by sliding it by hand along the ways.

 

[MarkHix]

+1 for Louie's post. Better drilling techinque cut out most of the problem.

The tapered part on the chuck is longer than the tapered part on the centers so you have to allow for that. I have a pencil line on the quill that shows me where the chuck will be forced out. If you back out slowly, you can feel it when it reaches that point.

 

[Daniel]

If the problem is, as mentioned above, you are reaching the point the taper ejects. that is a different problem.

I have had problems in the past with the taper seperating when there is to much vibration while drilling. You might want to double check your tail stock to head stock alignment. Drilling on the lathe should keep vibration to min if non existent but it can still happen. The second reason i see the taper pull out is when I drill to deep in one pass and basically bind the bit into the material being drilled. really easy to do when drilling meal or even plastic. it can still be done with wood fairly regularly.

Remember a drill bit is engineered to only drill three times it's diameter before you have to back it out and clear the chips. I know people regularly exceed that but that is the rule of thumb for standard styles of bits. A draw bar may jut encourage you to practice poor drilling technique. that technique can and will cause other problems. your choice.

My vote would be to check the equipment and check my technique. then see if i need fixes like a draw bar anyway.

 

[Lenny]

The problem with a drawbar is then you can't use the wheel to advance the bit, you must instead slide the whole tailstock along the bed. Instead I have found just keeping one hand on the drill chuck to steady it is all that is needed. I do have one chuck that has a longer shank requiring the tailstock to be advanced even more than the 1/2" (I have the Delta46-460 as well) for it to seat properly but I only use that one with a center drill.

Here's an example of how I do it...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1suUVIQpfQ

 

[glycerine]

What speed are you drilling at? I only drill at the slowest speed. Also, as someone else mentioned above, I also hold the Jacobs chuck with my hand and give it some pressure toward the tailstock. If you use a drawbar, you'll have to slide the entire tailstock instead of just advancing the bit... But it will definitely keep your bit in place.

 

[ossaguy]

I think I'll forget the drawbar then,as I want to use the crankwheel.My TS has a little side-to-side slop when loose,so it wouldn't be accurate sliding the whole thing in and out.

I was following the instructions for the long Colt bit that says to drill in 1 pass,without backing it out.I don't care for this bit since it's so overly long,it get wobbly in some woods,some not.

So I had went back to the std sized bit,and it popped the taper cranking it back out.It's happened both when cranking it out,and also when I've tried just sliding the whole TS out with the lathe running.It gets stuck if I try backing it out without the lathe turning.

I've been drilling on the slowest setting,on the middle sheave.I read that it's best to drill slow,but in the pen instruction sheets I've read I was suprised that it recommend drilling at a fast speed ( but that also is using a press,not a lathe.)

So what's the best lathe drilling RPM for wood barrels?

Thanks Lenny,I'll watch your video.

Thanks again,
Steve

 

[Lonn]

I make hundreds of pepper mills each year so i end up doing thousands of drilling operations. About a half of an inch back from the end of your quill drill and tap at least a 1/4 inch hole , with your drill chuck engaged thread a set screw in to score a divit on the drill chuck taper. Drill a 1/4 inch dia 1/4 deep hole in the taper of the chuck, then install a thumb screw and you will never have slippage again. When i bought my Oneway2436 i asked if the taper would hold for repeated drilling and was told absolutely. it did not hold. i don't enjoy a wobbling 2 1/4 inch bit coming loose while it has an 12 inch extension on it.

 

[U-Turn]

I use the same thing on my Jet. Had it happen a couple of times early on but was sliding the entire tail stock intgo the blank. Since I started locking it down and cranking the drill in I have had no problem and it works perfect.

 

[ossaguy]

That sounds like a great idea! I just hope that the steel isn't so hard I can't drill it,even with cobalt bits.

I realized that I can't hold the drill chuck steady with my left hand while I crank with my right,because I have to use my left hand to hold the tailstock small lever semi-snug.If it's left loose,there is slop there resulting in the drill bit wobbling.

So this looks like the perfect solution,I hope it turns out OK.

Thanks for the help,guys!

Steve