This will confirm all of the doubts of the experienced turners and make the newbies question my contributions here, BUT... I need a recommendation for a drill chuck for my Jet 1014VS. Thanks in advance![8D]
Drill chuck help
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Can't help with a price or a good buy, Lou, but when I purchased my used JET mini it came with a 13mm drill chuck from JET as part of the incentive. It has an MT2 taper that fits either side and I use it all the time without problems. I have been using it lately to drill pen blanks and its dead on.
53Jim
Member
I just got a flyer from WoodCraft today and in it they have a 1/2" drill chuck with a #2 morse taper for around $30. If I wasn't so lazy I'd go downstairs and dig it out of the recycling bin.
HTH
Jim
HTH
Jim
opfoto
Member
Lou,
I just picked one up from HF yesterday... Website priced at $9.99. The new local HF store (lucky me) had it for $8.99. Have yet to use it. So I can't speak about quality or durability yet. But if it helps, it really looks nice on my shelf! [
]
I just picked one up from HF yesterday... Website priced at $9.99. The new local HF store (lucky me) had it for $8.99. Have yet to use it. So I can't speak about quality or durability yet. But if it helps, it really looks nice on my shelf! [
]
melogic
Member
As Jim said, Woodcraft has a 1/2" keyed chuck #2 MT for $29.50. Sounds like a good deal to me.
M
Mudder
Guest
I have the 1/2" keyed chuck from Woodcraft and I'm very happy with it.
Fred in NC
Member
Marc (opfoto): Right now I have two of the HF chucks. I think one was bought on sale. I am very happy with them.
However, I would like to make a comment about drill chucks (Jacobs chucks, as they are called). These chucks are designed for drilling, whether the drill is in the tailstock or headstock.
Any use of these chucks where there is pressure applied from the SIDE or away from the taper will tend to dislodge the chuck. For example if you are using it to hold a bottle stopper.
In such cases it is advisable to get a taper that has internal threads in the small end. These threads are usually 3/8"-16. You use a piece of threaded rod from the taper to the outside of the spindle or tailstock, and secure it with a washer and nut (nylon wing nut in my case).
www.littlemachineshop.com sells these tapers, and chucks to go with them. You can get a chuck and taper combination for about $18 plus shipping. The tapers are Morse in one end, and either 2JT or 33 JT in the other. The chuck itself has to match the JT (Jacobs taper that goes inside the chuck.
If you want to get this kind of chuck, I highly advise to look at the site and then call Chris on the phone. He will make sure you get what you need.
The drawbar is there to hold the taper in place. You don't have to tighten it beyond finger tight.
However, I would like to make a comment about drill chucks (Jacobs chucks, as they are called). These chucks are designed for drilling, whether the drill is in the tailstock or headstock.
Any use of these chucks where there is pressure applied from the SIDE or away from the taper will tend to dislodge the chuck. For example if you are using it to hold a bottle stopper.
In such cases it is advisable to get a taper that has internal threads in the small end. These threads are usually 3/8"-16. You use a piece of threaded rod from the taper to the outside of the spindle or tailstock, and secure it with a washer and nut (nylon wing nut in my case).
www.littlemachineshop.com sells these tapers, and chucks to go with them. You can get a chuck and taper combination for about $18 plus shipping. The tapers are Morse in one end, and either 2JT or 33 JT in the other. The chuck itself has to match the JT (Jacobs taper that goes inside the chuck.
If you want to get this kind of chuck, I highly advise to look at the site and then call Chris on the phone. He will make sure you get what you need.
The drawbar is there to hold the taper in place. You don't have to tighten it beyond finger tight.
OK, Fred, you know me and know that I'm about as dumb as a post when it comes to this stuff. I'm looking to do some closed end pens. I've got the mini-mandrel and it's supposed to be mounted in a drill chuck. So do I need that extra threaded part and the nut?
Fred in NC
Member
For the price you are covered if you need to secure the chuck to the spindle. If you are turning a close end pen, of course you will put side pressure on the mandrel, and the other end of the mandrel is not supported. This is one reason Morse tapers come off the spindle. Your total cost would be about $25 for the chuck, and a couple dollars for the rod and wing nut.
My closed end mandrel is a piece of 1/4" bolt with the head cut off !!! I use the tailstock until I am ready to turn the end...
For drilling I just use my $10 HF chuck !
My closed end mandrel is a piece of 1/4" bolt with the head cut off !!! I use the tailstock until I am ready to turn the end...
For drilling I just use my $10 HF chuck !
Thanks, everyone!
Randy_
Member
Lou: If you have a good chuck on your drill press and would like to use it on you lathe, Grizzly sells a drill chuck arbor that has a Morse taper on one end and a JT taper on the other.....the one I needed....MT2/JT33...was $7.95.
Randy_
Member
Fred: What keeps the chuck from coming loose from the Jacobs taper???
write-n-style
Member
Frednc said
<In such cases it is advisable to get a taper that has internal threads in the small end. These threads are usually 3/8"-16. You use a piece of threaded rod from the taper to the outside of the spindle or tailstock, and secure it with a washer and nut (nylon wing nut in my case).>
I bought the HF chuck for $10.00.The small end of the M2 had a pilot "divot" but no hole or threads. I picked up a 1/4-20 drill and tap set at the hardware store for about $4.00.
It was relatively easy to drill and tap for the draw bar.
(Total cost was a lot less than other suppliers)
<In such cases it is advisable to get a taper that has internal threads in the small end. These threads are usually 3/8"-16. You use a piece of threaded rod from the taper to the outside of the spindle or tailstock, and secure it with a washer and nut (nylon wing nut in my case).>
I bought the HF chuck for $10.00.The small end of the M2 had a pilot "divot" but no hole or threads. I picked up a 1/4-20 drill and tap set at the hardware store for about $4.00.
It was relatively easy to drill and tap for the draw bar.
(Total cost was a lot less than other suppliers)
Fred in NC
Member
Randy: "Fred: What keeps the chuck from coming loose from the Jacobs taper???" Friction, the desing of the taper is different, and once you pound it in a bit it stays put a lot better.
Write-n-style: I have 2 of the HF chucks. Yes, they can be drilled and tapped. That is, if you have the tools, and a vice to hold the taper straight while you drill and tap. Not everyone wants to do that. At times I do my own, and sometimes I figure it is easier to buy.
Write-n-style: I have 2 of the HF chucks. Yes, they can be drilled and tapped. That is, if you have the tools, and a vice to hold the taper straight while you drill and tap. Not everyone wants to do that. At times I do my own, and sometimes I figure it is easier to buy.
Rifleman1776
Member
Grizzly. 'enuf said. [8D]
driften
Member
I bought a work arbor with drill chuck at Sears and it is no good. The MT2 arbor is fine but anything placed in the drill chuck wobbles. Just FYI
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