GaWoodworker
Member
If I use dyed snakeskins, I have a problem that the skins darken as the resin bonds. Is there something that can seal the skins prior to adding them to resin? Any help would be appreciated.
Originally posted by JimGo
<br />Anthony, did you try coating with CA or something like shellac before casting?
Originally posted by ldimick
<br />Maybe the answer is to find a different medium than resin?
Originally posted by ldimick
<br />Maybe the answer is to find a different medium than resin?
Originally posted by PenWorks
<br />Did you use your pressure pot ?? Looks like it, that cast is crystal clear [] How about the recepie, did you go to 10 drops ? Looks great.
Originally posted by PenWorks
<br />To be clear, "crystal clear"...... I ment 10 drops per 4 oz. Did you mean 5 drops per oz? Carefull on that experimenting Dr. Frankinstein [] I would think the pressure pot would take the tempeture and the humidity out of the equation , yes ?
[/quote]Originally posted by its_virgil
<br /> Got the pressure pot (for paint) from HF for $79...it is a 2 1/2 gallon pot and I made a shelf for it and have two layers of shelfs to put the molds on.
Originally posted by DWK5150
<br />Harbour Freight
Originally posted by JimGo
<br />Thanks for the hint WRT the pressure pot. That's a cool toy![]
Originally posted by thetalbott4
<br />Don-
Your casting looks great. Perfectly clear! Are you bringing the pot to 60 psi and then sealing it off with a valve, or leaving it hooked to the compressor? Pressure for entire cure time? As you lower your drops per ounce of catalyst, are you experiencing "sticky" or "tacky" castings? The first set I did are sticky on the exterior but seem to turn ok. Again, nice job!
Originally posted by JimGo
<br />Don,
I tried looking through HF for a paint pot, but didn't find one. Still searching...
Never mind. Of course, just after I post this, I find this...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93119
and this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37515
The later seems the better choice (and looks an aweful lot like yours Don!).
Originally posted by PenWorks
<br />I guess everything is just bigger in Texas [] I just saw a picture of Serge's pot, more like a saute pan he stole from the wife's kitchen [] His sea snake came out just like yours crystal clear. you guys are onto something...... Good job.
Originally posted by TomServo
<br />
"Open molds. When using open molds, which are made from patterns with flat backs, some people pour resin into the molds and leave them uncovered while the resin cures. I don’t recommend this technique. Since modeling resins cure by heat, the air will prevent the top layer from getting hot enough, and you’ll end up with a permanently sticky surface. Also, oxygen in the air inhibits some resins from curing, and the result is an even stickier surface."
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/resincasting1102.pdf
relating to the topic at hand: why not try coating the skin in epoxy, allowing to cure, sand the surface (to remove waxes!) and then cast? PITA but may help - casting epoxy is about 2-4x as expensive as PR, epoxy glue would work for this (some is clearer than others)
Anyone interested in casting resin under pressure, please read:
A word of warning to those of you who are considering pressure casting. Having read on a couple of casting forums, everything I've found warns against casting in a pressure cooker. Pressure cooking often does not exceed 15 psi and to pressure cast, the pressure needs to be in the 40-60psi range. BE SURE YOU KNOW THE PRESSURE RATING ON WHAT EVER VESSEL YOU CHOOSE TO CAST IN. IT IS NOT WORTH INJURY TO GET THAT PERFECT CAST.