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heinedan

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Hello, this is a closed end Jr. gent with Rhodium plating. Please let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Dan
 

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Skye

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I like it but I wish there was a little more of that silver luster in the lower barrel so it would match up a little more. Just one tip (just incase it's news) is to always drill your holes from the joining faces when you cut the blank. Also, if your blanks are too long and you have to mill them down, make sure you seat the tubes as close to that cut edge as possible on both blanks. That way you mill away from the far ends of both blanks the majority of the material. This leaves the transition from one blank to the next very smooth because hardly any material between them was removed.

Again, I don't know if you know that or not, just wanted to mention it.

Are you using MicroMesh or a buffing wheel?
 
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amosfella

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Oct 19, 2008
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Vulcan, AB, Canada
I have turned one of those blanks, and I have to disagree with Skye. It's just the angle that the blank is presented at that makes it look that there is more silver in the lid than the body. Great job, BTW. Hope to see many more to come.
 

Skye

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I have turned one of those blanks, and I have to disagree with Skye. It's just the angle that the blank is presented at that makes it look that there is more silver in the lid than the body.

Um, how exactly can you tell that? Just because you turned one of these blanks doesn't nessesarily mean that the ammount of luster throughout every single blank will be the same as yours. He's got two pics and on both, there's not the same ammount in the lower blank.

Besides, to assume we're looking at the blank as it was built is incorrect because the bands of color do not line up at all. the cap appears rotated 90 degrees as there's thin bands in the lower barrel and the upper barrel are licking flames of the bands which means it's 90 degrees turned. So, it only makes sense that we're not looking at the same area of luster.

I could be wrong, but I don't think I am.
 

marcruby

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Feb 22, 2008
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Warren, Michigan, USA.
Um, how exactly can you tell that?

Since he only shows one side of the barrel to us it's impossible to tell one way or the other. I admit that it does look like the barrel and cap came from two different blanks. Something that close ended pens are prone to.

Marc
 

Skye

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I admit that it does look like the barrel and cap came from two different blanks. Something that close ended pens are prone to.

Marc

I haven't turned that many closed end pens, so I may be missing something, but what makes them different from any other pen at the meeting of the cap and body?
 
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To me it looks like the cap and barrel are not in the same axis orientation. They look to be 90 degrees apart. Also, I can see what looks to be sanding lines on the lower barrel.

Nice shape and matching of hardware to blank!
 

marcruby

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Close ended pens take more of a blank than pens where the finial fittings are used and take up space. The blanks can be too short to start out with, or a small drilling mistake can force you to move to a second blank. I won't even use a blank for a close-ended pen unless I have enough material with a some to spare - say 6 to 6.5 inches.

And I'm not at all convinced that the problem we're seeing isn't as Blind Squirrel points - just a matter of turning the barrel around so that there's a better match.

Marc

I haven't turned that many closed end pens, so I may be missing something, but what makes them different from any other pen at the meeting of the cap and body?
 

Skye

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I admit that it does look like the barrel and cap came from two different blanks. Something that close ended pens are prone to.

And I'm not at all convinced that the problem we're seeing isn't as Blind Squirrel points - just a matter of turning the barrel around so that there's a better match.

I'm not sure which side of the fence you're on. You appear to support both ideas.

the cap appears rotated 90 degrees as there's thin bands in the lower barrel and the upper barrel are licking flames of the bands which means it's 90 degrees turned.

I said that before Scott did. I'm wondering if you're not skimming my posts and just reading the parts you want to disagree with.

And Ken is always buggering me.... I mean bugging me...
 

marcruby

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I'm not sure which side of the fence you're on. You appear to support both ideas.

I think that's my point. There's nothing to be gained by being dogmatic based on a single empirical observation. There's no rule that says I have to pick sides.

Marc

Added: I think this is getting to the point where I feel I may be hectoring you. Please feel free to read my responses on either thread and respond on your own. And don't take any lack of response as meaning I didn't read and consider them.
 
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IPD_Mrs

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Jun 27, 2007
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Zionsville, Indiana
Dan said to let him know what you think. It appears to start that way until a bit of ankle bitting goes on. People want constructive critisism so they can do better each time.

The rest of this is to Dan. If the rest of you don't like what I have to say then tell me in private don't trash his SOYP thread!

Dan,
Good kit choice with the blank and nice looking shape to the close end. Two things that really stick out to me.
1. The pattern on each peice should flow across the transition so it looks like it all came from the same blank. If you look at the first photo it looks like two orange lines should flow through the center band into two more orange lines on the cap, in stead it goes into a flame looking swirl.
2.) When working with plastics you need to get some sort of plastic polish/scratch remover. I don't care what brand you get, but you need to find something if the scratches are visable to me in a photo.

Mike
 
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