custom logos

[ahoiberg]

a question regarding doing a pen with a custom logo or writing on it...

is the process basically printing out the right sized sheet of paper with whatever you want on it, somehow attaching it to a tube and casting it in clear PR as you would a snakeskin or something?

is there any specific kind of paper you have to use so the glue/PR won't eat it up?

thanks all.

 

[BRobbins629]

Even easier than paper is ink jet label stock. I use the full sheets, Avery part number 8255. Just cut it out, stick to the tube and cast away just like snake skin. I recommend using a color for the background, coloring the tube, or using one of the new nickel tubes from CSUSA. Have done many that way - logos, photos, and patterns all work well.

No glue, so that doesn't eat it up and I have worked with both clear PR and epoxy casts with no problem.

 

[gketell]

Yup. labels are the way to go. While a lousy photo here was my first cast:

bottom blank is from "Jeff in Indiana", top half is my niece's favorite "brand". This pen was a gift to her on her 13th birthday.

GK

 

[ahoiberg]

so the label is sticky already? nice.

another question. how do you deal with the seam that is crated where the ends of the label meet up?

 

[polarbear1]

I have a single color background so the seam will not show, or I put a dark border around the picture, usually black and the seam will not show. Remember it's ok if your picture seems small the shape of the pen when you are done will magnify the picture -- the fatter the pen the larger the picture

 

[gketell]

On mine I kept playing with the size of the image until the pattern exactly matched up. If I had been truly anal I could have trimmed the label along the letters to further hide the seam. But instead I just stuck the seam under the clip so at most you only have 1" to see and then you have to be looking for it to see it.

GK

 

[ahoiberg]

any thoughts on which is the best 'clear' to cast with? i see a few have tried epoxy, pr, etc... i'll not be using a pressure pot or anything, just simple casting.

 

[BRobbins629]

I have used both PR and epoxy. Both will work. PR is less expensive but does have an odor that some find offensive. Epoxy costs more and you have to be more precise in measuring the 2 parts. I have seen some clear casts without pressure pots, but if there is any way you could use ultraonics or a vacuum to degas the resin, you will be much happier. Before I started using pressure and degasing, I usually got extra tubes and made 2 or 3 extras and typically at least one was good. Since I went with degasing and pressure, I am nearly 100% good. So it will work, but the chances of a really clear blank are slightly less.

 

[gketell]

If you aren't using vacuum or pressure I would go with which ever takes LONGER to set. That way the bubbles have more time to work their way out. Then try bouncing the mold on the ground or tap it with a ?? a few dozen times to try to encourage the bubbles even more.

GK

 

[ahoiberg]

is artstuf still the best place to get PR?

 

[Jerryconn]

I believe several get it from Mr. Fiberglass I believe they have the best pricing on PR.

 

[pentex]

What a great site. One of these days, I am going to try this logo thing, but not yet. Don't think I am ready for these fancy things. Keep the information coming.

 

[ahoiberg]

thanks jerry, that looks like the ticket.

is there anyone else out there who does this without degasing apparatus?

 

[imagine]

Although I haven't tried it, I did see where someone sat their cast on a scroll saw and let it run for several minutes. The vibration from something like that would help I think.