Cost Efficient Sanding

[EatenAppleCrafts]

Hello All,

I normally use MicroMesh in my finishing process for acrylics and CA finished materials, which covers almost all of my pens. However, I have been noticing that I am going through the MicroMesh fairly quickly, meaning that it seems to lose it's ability to work after what seems to be not a lot of pens. I sand down to 400-600 grit dry first, then step down using the MicroMesh, and then polish afterwards. I could never get buffing to work for me, so I just Novus 3-2-1 with Meguiars as the last step.

Does anyone have alternatives that might not be as pricey as continuously going through MicroMesh?

Thank you,

Owen

 

[jttheclockman]

Yes, wet sand. MM is meant to be wet sanded. You get better results wet sanding. Just make sure the ends of wood blanks are sealed with CA so not to soak up water.

 

[Dehn0045]

I've had MM last for 100+ pend when used wet. I also use a toothbrush to clean the pads periodically. 3000 grit 3M sandpaper allows you to skip the first few grits of MM, I use wet also. This might be an option if your courser grits are going bad first. Other than buffing, magic juice (if my understanding is correct it is basically just a lapping fluid) is the only alternative that I can think of ( https://www.turnerswarehouse.com/products/spb-magic-juice-polishing-compound ), but I've never tried it and can't say whether it is more cost efficient.

Be cautious of methods that use an abrasive and wax combination, like EEE. You often end up with a poorly finished CA surface that is covered by a layer of wax. Looks nice to begin with, but doesn't hold it's shine. At least that is my personal experience.

 

[qquake]

You can try 3M Zona as an alternative to Micro Mesh. I've had good results with it. It's slightly less expensive than MM, and comes as 8-1/2" x 11" sheets.

https://www.amazon.com/37-948-Polishing-2-Inch-11-Inch-Assortment/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=sxts_rp_s1_0?cv_ct_cx=3m+zona&dchild=1&keywords=3m+zona&pd_rd_i=B001BHGC7G&pd_rd_r=1d1624cd-5d14-4db3-91f3-1b98fc3efc2e&pd_rd_w=zb0HT&pd_rd_wg=nBpcP&pf_rd_p=f99754cc-0195-4f26-b585-4ddc29d85a2d&pf_rd_r=JYGX571HP68QPH5V73QV&psc=1&qid=1630782557&sr=1-1-f0029781-b79b-4b60-9cb0-eeda4dea34d6

 

[PatrickR]

Personally I dont like how rigid MM is. I use Abranet and Festool Platin

 

[EatenAppleCrafts]

Thank you all for the help, looks like I have experimenting to do...

 

[Monty]

Personally I dont like how rigid MM is. I use Abranet and Festool Platin

Not sure what you mean by rigid. The MM I use is as thin and flexible as wet or dry sand paper.

 

[PatrickR]

Not sure what you mean by rigid. The MM I use is as thin and flexible as wet or dry sand paper.

What I have are two sided pads, about 2" square, color coded for the grit with foam in the center.

 

[qquake]

What I have are two sided pads, about 2" square, color coded for the grit with foam in the center.

Micro Mesh has sheets.

 

[leehljp]

Long ago I needed to finish a segmented blank without sanding - sanding segments often creates considerable smearing of the different segments. By spending half an hour learning to properly hone my scraper to a very fine mirror edge, I was able to turn the blank smoother than 1000 grit sandpaper or 12000 grit MM, without smearing the segments which sandpaper does.

From that, I learned that a properly sharpened scraper or skew can give a finer natural finish on the outside than sandpaper can. But if one wants to finish with SP or MM, there is no need to use the lower end MM or SP numbers and therefore - the use of SP or MM is considerably reduced.

There are several here that use this process.

 

[sorcerertd]

Well since it was brought up, I've been using the MM pads. Wonder if the sheets are any better? I suppose it's probably personal preference. Have also considered the Zona sheets. For what it's worth, the MM pads do come in a 3x4 size that can be cut in half to save a couple bucks.

 

[PatrickR]

Micro Mesh has sheets.

Good to know.

 

[EatenAppleCrafts]

Micro Mesh has sheets.

Thank you.

 

[EatenAppleCrafts]

Long ago I needed to finish a segmented blank without sanding - sanding segments often creates considerable smearing of the different segments. By spending half an hour learning to properly hone my scraper to a very fine mirror edge, I was able to turn the blank smoother than 1000 grit sandpaper or 12000 grit MM, without smearing the segments which sandpaper does.

From that, I learned that a properly sharpened scraper or skew can give a finer natural finish on the outside than sandpaper can. But if one wants to finish with SP or MM, there is no need to use the lower end MM or SP numbers and therefore - the use of SP or MM is considerably reduced.

There are several here that use this process.

I agree on the segmented woods, and I often use a thin layer of ca to prevent color bleed. I have not, however, tried a scraper, so I will not. I have a couple of great skew chisels but need to work on my final passes.

 

[EatenAppleCrafts]

You can try 3M Zona as an alternative to Micro Mesh. I've had good results with it. It's slightly less expensive than MM, and comes as 8-1/2" x 11" sheets.

https://www.amazon.com/37-948-Polishing-2-Inch-11-Inch-Assortment/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=sxts_rp_s1_0?cv_ct_cx=3m+zona&dchild=1&keywords=3m+zona&pd_rd_i=B001BHGC7G&pd_rd_r=1d1624cd-5d14-4db3-91f3-1b98fc3efc2e&pd_rd_w=zb0HT&pd_rd_wg=nBpcP&pf_rd_p=f99754cc-0195-4f26-b585-4ddc29d85a2d&pf_rd_r=JYGX571HP68QPH5V73QV&psc=1&qid=1630782557&sr=1-1-f0029781-b79b-4b60-9cb0-eeda4dea34d6

I just ordered some to experiment on my next go 'round. Thank you.

 

[EatenAppleCrafts]

I've had MM last for 100+ pend when used wet. I also use a toothbrush to clean the pads periodically. 3000 grit 3M sandpaper allows you to skip the first few grits of MM, I use wet also. This might be an option if your courser grits are going bad first. Other than buffing, magic juice (if my understanding is correct it is basically just a lapping fluid) is the only alternative that I can think of ( https://www.turnerswarehouse.com/products/spb-magic-juice-polishing-compound ), but I've never tried it and can't say whether it is more cost efficient.

Be cautious of methods that use an abrasive and wax combination, like EEE. You often end up with a poorly finished CA surface that is covered by a layer of wax. Looks nice to begin with, but doesn't hold it's shine. At least that is my personal experience.

Interesting, I have seen several of those lately and was wondering about their use. I wouldn't use it on just acrylic, maybe hybrids

 

[egnald]

Greetings from Nebraska.

I wet sand with MicroMesh pads and they seem to last a long, long time for me (on the order of 50 or so pens). But, as for the Cost Efficient part of your question, the little 2 x 2 inch MicroMesh pads from PSI for example run $27 for the set of 9 grits. I however, bought mine from Chad Schimmel over at Turners Warehouse, they were called Micro Polish Pads and were $12 for a 3 x 4 inch set. I cut them into quarters giving me essentially 4 sets of 1.5 x 2 inch pads, so each set works out to $3 -- yes, they are a little smaller and don't have rounded edges but they are a lot more cost effective compared to MicroMesh from PSI.

I think the color code is a little different than MicroMesh, but I use a Sharpie permanent marker and number each pad in the corner. So far the numbers remain legible even through wet sanding sessions.

Regards,
Dave

 

[jttheclockman]

Well since it was brought up, I've been using the MM pads. Wonder if the sheets are any better? I suppose it's probably personal preference. Have also considered the Zona sheets. For what it's worth, the MM pads do come in a 3x4 size that can be cut in half to save a couple bucks.

Here is my thoughts because I use both pads and sheets. But I only use the sheets when I need to polish flat work and then I use lemon oil as a lubricant. I think you need a lubricant to make it easier and saves the material longer. I use pads on pens because and it seems I repeat myself many times here but when you sand no matter what the paper is with your fingers they will not sand the surface evenly because your finger is round. It will find those crevices and sand more into them. Thus is why I recommend when sanding blanks with sandpaper to use a backer of some sort. I like to use a 3" by 6" long flat board. I wrap sandpaper around it. Now with MM and the use of the pads they will act as the board because it is flat and not rounded as your fingers. Just my thoughts.

 

[qquake]

I just finished this one using Zona. I wet sanded with 220-600 grits, used all six grades of the Zona, then followed up with Meguiar's 105, 205, and #9. In person, I can see a slight improvement between the Zona and Meguiar's. But I still can't tell if there's a difference between Meguiar's 205 and #9. This is an inlace acrylester blank called Peacock.

 

[leehljp]

I agree on the segmented woods, and I often use a thin layer of ca to prevent color bleed. I have not, however, tried a scraper, so I will not. I have a couple of great skew chisels but need to work on my final passes.

Taking time to learn the finesse of using particular tools - great decreases the overall time needed to finish projects, as well as increasing skill level and increasing the quality of the finished product.

"prevent color bleed" - For me, it wasn't color bleed as much as metal smearing onto wood that comes from using sandpaper, but it is the same as when using different colored woods.

The use of the tool to smooth and clean a blank is light years ahead of using alcohol or erasers to remove smears. By the way, a skew laid on its side onto the tool rest is effectively a scraper as I use to clean blanks.

 

[penicillin]

I use the Micro-mesh pads. Like others, I buy the 3x4 inch set of nine pads and then cut them into smaller working pieces.

I use Micro-mesh on CA finishes. I keep them wet in a plastic cup of water while finishing. I let them dry out for storage. If you use them only for finishing, they last a very long time. You can do many many pens with the same set. I have yet to wear a set out, but I have lost a couple sets by leaving them behind at other sites (demos, etc.).

-> I mark the sides with separate dots using a Sharpie. The first pad gets 1 dot and the last pad gets 9 separate dots.

(I tried other marking techniques like writing the numbers or making a "V". The numbers were too fuzzy to read, and the "V" put two dots on each pad that were harder to read to get the sequence right. That's especially true if you put a "V" on both sides for convenience - the two sides won't match, and figuring out which side is which, or which face is "up" on a given pad doesn't work well.)

 

[PatrickR]

a long time ago someone on here said "use sandpaper like its free" and it has stuck with me.

 

[EatenAppleCrafts]

Greetings from Nebraska.

I wet sand with MicroMesh pads and they seem to last a long, long time for me (on the order of 50 or so pens). But, as for the Cost Efficient part of your question, the little 2 x 2 inch MicroMesh pads from PSI for example run $27 for the set of 9 grits. I however, bought mine from Chad Schimmel over at Turners Warehouse, they were called Micro Polish Pads and were $12 for a 3 x 4 inch set. I cut them into quarters giving me essentially 4 sets of 1.5 x 2 inch pads, so each set works out to $3 -- yes, they are a little smaller and don't have rounded edges but they are a lot more cost effective compared to MicroMesh from PSI.

I think the color code is a little different than MicroMesh, but I use a Sharpie permanent marker and number each pad in the corner. So far the numbers remain legible even through wet sanding sessions.

Regards,
Dave

This is great information, I never would have found those on my own, thank you.

 

[egnald]

-> I mark the sides with separate dots using a Sharpie. The first pad gets 1 dot and the last pad gets 9 separate dots.

(I tried other marking techniques like writing the numbers or making a "V". The numbers were too fuzzy to read, and the "V" put two dots on each pad that were harder to read to get the sequence right. That's especially true if you put a "V" on both sides for convenience - the two sides won't match, and figuring out which side is which, or which face is "up" on a given pad doesn't work well.)

I started out using your dots method (well, maybe dashes), but I also found that I could simply write the number on the surface of the pad and so far it seems to hold up just fine for me. - Dave

 

[jrista]

Well since it was brought up, I've been using the MM pads. Wonder if the sheets are any better? I suppose it's probably personal preference. Have also considered the Zona sheets. For what it's worth, the MM pads do come in a 3x4 size that can be cut in half to save a couple bucks.

I started with the same MM pads. I never liked them, then found that MM has sheets as well. The sheets are shades of gray, rather than color coded (not sure why, liked the color coding), but I have found them to be much, much easier to use when finishing "plastic" pens than the pads. They can just be wrapped around the pen if need be, or just held at a contact point, but the flexibility of the sheets is wonderful.

I usually cut strips off the sheets, and use the strips until they stop polishing properly, and cut another strip.

FWIW, I always do my final polishing with a polishing compound. I've used a few different pen polishes, I haven't found a lot of difference between them so far, but, I do find that to get that perfect scratch-free finish, the polish is necessary...I can't quite do it with just sandpaper or tools alone.

 

[penicillin]

I started out using your dots method (well, maybe dashes), but I also found that I could simply write the number on the surface of the pad and so far it seems to hold up just fine for me. - Dave

Great tip. I hope others can use it.

Speaking only for myself, I prefer not to write on the abrasive surface. I can cite no good reason to back it up, other than not wanting to risk transferring any old ink to the workpiece (pen), no matter how unlikely it is.