Corrosion and pen platings

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clowman

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I have a friend that has asked me to make him a pen for his father for this father's day. His father spends alot of time sailing to and fro at sea. As soon as he mentioned a pen for his dad, I thought about the effects of the salt air may have on the plating of a pen I might turn for him. Anyone out there have experience on what sort of plating will not well... rust away when exposed to sea air weeks on end? Or am I worrying needlessly?
 
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gerryr

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I don't have any direct experience, but my guess is Platinum/Rhodium or Gold or Black Ti would be the best platings to consider. They're certainly the longest lasting.
 

TomServo

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I'd say definitely go for one of the Ti platings; but even though a Ti plating won't corrode, if there is a scratch through it, the chrome underneath, or the copper underneath the chrome can corrode...
 

Rifleman1776

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Originally posted by TomServo
<br />I'd say definitely go for one of the Ti platings; but even though a Ti plating won't corrode, if there is a scratch through it, the chrome underneath, or the copper underneath the chrome can corrode...

My jeweler ruined several special bits trying to drill a Baron clip. Couldn't even scratch it. I managed to scratch it with much effort at home with other tools. It's unbelievably tough stuff. But, personally, I would take an el cheapo out on the boat. Even a Ti pen can go overboard. Plus, the effect of salt water on a fine turned wood pen can't be good.
 

Daniel

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My thoughts sort of wnt the way of Franks. I would use platinum.
and my concern would then be about the mechanism or other parts inside. give the brass, refill, and all a coat of TSW or Ren wax.
 
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I'd get a teak wood pen blank and use one of the Titanium platings. The effect of salt water on Teak Wood has been known for many centuries. If the friends father has done any refit work on his sail boat (if that is what you mean by sailing) he may even have some pieces of teak he has removed for replacement on the boat and you could make the pen from some of that. For the finish buy a can of teak oil that is sold in most sail boat supply shops.

Any sailor worth his salt would go nuts over a pen like that.
 

fuzzydog

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Daniel makes a good point about the inner workings. I have used plain old vasiline on moving parts on a salt water fishing boat for over 20 years. I use it where I know the parts a subjected to salt water and heavy use. (rubber raft: fittings for inflation, Fishing reels, etc.) It's cheap, it lasts and easy to remove and replace.
 

clowman

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Wow, more information than I was expecting! Thanks everyone. I like the idea of using a piece of wood from his boat, I'll check on that.
 

tone

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Titanium nitride plating is used over stainless steel on fishing rod guides. Titanium does not corrode but if it gets chipped or scratched off (not likely for a pen I'd think) then the stainless will corrode under the plating just at the edges usually where the guide is used as a hookkeeper or the outer edges getting banged around the boat against other rod guides. We're talking more abuse than a pen is going to see. A study done on fishing rod guides showed black chrome guides to withstand the abuse of saltwater fishing better than the titanium plated guides. I think they are black chrome over chrome over stainless.

Or he can get one of Bruces solid titanium pens!

Tony
 
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