copper pen

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.

dozuki

Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2005
Messages
241
Location
washington, dc, USA.
I saw the article on turning a copper pen using copper wire and I really want to make one. I only have one problem, I can't get the solderring to work. I put on the flux apply the heat and the soldering wire and the wire melts into little ballse and rolls off of the wire and onto my bench. If anyone can give me some pointers I would really appreciate it.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

jeff

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 5, 2003
Messages
8,974
Location
Westlake, OH, USA.
What kind of flux and solder are you using? Are you using an iron or a torch?
Is your wire bare (no varnish, etc.) and clean (degreased?)

To get solder to flow, you need to get the thing you want it to flow into hot enough to melt the solder. You can't melt the solder and get it to flow into the workpiece. You have quite a mass of metal to heat up, and it sounds like you may not be getting it hot enough.
 

dozuki

Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2005
Messages
241
Location
washington, dc, USA.
I am usng oatey No.95 lead free solder and oatey safe flo lisver lead free. How hot should the workpiece be? Should the wire glow and how much flux do you use. it looks like the frlux melts off when heated.
 

its_virgil

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
8,131
Location
Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
I used copper electrical wire and stripped off the B/W/R insulation, wrapped it tightly around the tube and used the same flux and solder that plumbers use to sweating copper fittings. Heat source was a torch and all went well.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 

ryannmphs

Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2004
Messages
449
Location
Memphis, TN, USA.
Sounds like you might be heating the solder not the copper. You should heat the copper wire to the point the solder melts. Infact, like plumbing (at least this is the way I do it and the way I've been told) you should heat on the opposite side as you put the solder on. The solder will "wick" around to the heat

Yes the flux will melt before the solder, it's supposed to, that's the way it works. And no, you do not want to heat the copper to the "glowing" point.

Hope this helps
Ryan
 

dozuki

Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2005
Messages
241
Location
washington, dc, USA.
No matter wher i put the or how much heat i put on it all it does is ball up and roll away. I put on more flux. It melted and ran away. I heated the flux applied heat untill it sizzled removed the flame and applied the solder and nothing happened. If i apply the heat and the solder togeather the solder melts and balls up or sofens and snaps off. nothig seems to stick. i may just hang up my torch. how much flame should i use? Maybe i am using to much heat.
 

jeff

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 5, 2003
Messages
8,974
Location
Westlake, OH, USA.
If your wire is clean and not oxidized, you can probably do without the flux. Run some steel wool or emery paper along the wire before you wrap it. That should take care of oxidation, the removal of which is the primary purpose of flux.

Do you have this clamped in a vise? That might be working as a heat sink and keeping the temp of the workpiece too low. It is possible to have too much heat, but you should see some flow of the solder before that point.

You should be using the tip of the "blue cone" inside the flame of your torch.
 

dozuki

Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2005
Messages
241
Location
washington, dc, USA.
I give up. I will try again later maybe i can find someone to actually show me how to do it. for now i give up. Im at the stage where i want to scream so ill just let it go for a while.
 

skewzdust

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
54
Location
Chippewa Falls, WI, USA.
You might find it easier to use an electronics solder like 63/37. It has lead and has a lower melting point than lead free solders. It also tends to wet better than lead free solders.
 

Travlr7

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2004
Messages
360
Location
Marquette Heights, Illinois, USA.
When I made my copper pen, I didn't use solder. I didn't want any silver showing, so I used CA. It held well. Sold the pen in September for $50.00. I'll probably make another one in a few months.

Bruce
 

woodbutcher

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Messages
462
Location
Winter Springs, Fl, USA.
How is the wire whipping all over the place? Are you trying to wrap and solder at the same time? I havent actually made one of these pens but to me the process seemed fairly straight forward. Dependig on your rigging I'm thinking there may be a built in heat sink pulling the heat away from your work. I find sometimes it best to heat up my clamping/rigging or what ever is attatched to what you are trying to solder, in order for the heat to actually stay in the area you are wanting to work. If it gets red it is waaayyyy too hot. It is not rocket science. Leave it for a day or two and try again. Eventually the light will come on and your efforts will be rewarded,

Jim
 

Mikey

Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2005
Messages
1,293
Location
Cleveland, OH, USA.
I have soldered quite a bit with both soldering iron and torch. Sounds like one of two things (or both) is happening. First, if the wire has a coating on it, you will not get the solder to work. The coating must be off. If the wire has the coating and you hit it with the torch, it will turn black right away. Second, you could have applied too much heat before trying to solder, or you aimed the flame around the whole mandrel, turning everyting black from the heat. There is a point at which you apply too much heat and must re sand a joint for a good connection.

If you have the blank in a mandrel, a decent torch should apply more than enough heat, even if the heat is wicking away down the mandrel. If you glowed the copper red, you went to far.

I think if you can soak the wire in some thinner and dry before you wrap it, you will most likely get it done just fine.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom