Commissioned request...!

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robutacion

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
6,514
Location
Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
Hi Folks,

Some weeks back, I was requested to make 10 calligraphy pens from a young guy from Adelaide area that started making these pens some time ago.

He contacted me in the beginning because he wanted to make these pens with my Resifills that would need to be longer than pen blanks so, I cast a couple of dozens blanks for him to work with.

In the beginning, I have tried to convince him that, making such long and thin pens with Resifills was not going to be a good idea, they are not that strong when turned that thin with wood and resin in between but, he was ready for the challenge (so he said).

I sold him also a few long raw wood pen blanks for him to practice the shape and final lengths, that would give him a good idea to what he was getting into.

One of the problems was that he had no wood turning experience, he had just purchased a mini lathe and some tools but, he was short on many other stuff, to be able to make/turn these type pens.

He requested me to teach him what to do and what to use so, after a couple of weekends, he felt confident to try the Resifills, which he did...!

He seemed to be a quick learner and quite skilled and that was proven when he come over and shown me a couple of pens he made, some out of solid wood and one out of one of my Resifills.

You will see that pen with yellow resin in a pic attached that I used later on as the prototype of his pens.

I was pleasantly surprised with his well turned Resifill blank, it was perfect and straight something that, for someone just starting, was not be an easy task but, looking at his face, I knew that something wasn't right and that's when he told me, of the number of broken Resifills and days spent to get a single pen done without snapping.

He was a little disappointed that, I was right about my advice that, Resifills wouldn't be the most suitable blank to make these pens, not impossible but extremely difficult and the fact that, each blank made with different materials and structures would behave differently, making its turning a tough task.

The finish I advise was CA, that would strengthen the blanks so slightly but, a simple drop on the floor would snap the pen in 2 or 3 pieces after done, I was convinced.

This guy really wanted to make these type of pens out of my Resifills, that would be what would make them different from many others seen on sale, these are normally made of stabilized wood or hard/dense woods.

I explained to him that, the only way to get around the snapping problem was to try to use some smaller brass tubes as inserts, they would need to be very small because a good part of the pen has a diameter of about 5mm and the brass would show through on the resin sections.

I also adised that, his designs would need a little more thickness on that thin part, the whole pen would need to go a little fatter to allow a bigger ands stronger brass insert, the blanks are 8" long so, drill a small hole from end to end with so many hardnesses between different woods and Epoxy resin that, we would need to go as bigger as possible, I suggested the 4mm brass inserts and an average pen body increase of an extra 4 or 5mm however, and as well he pointed out, the diameter of the rea of the pen where the finger wrap arround/grab the pen, would make it too "fat", something like 14 to 16mm and that, we didn't want.

It was clear that this guy had a good/set idea on what his pens would like and feel in the hand so, increassing the insert size was out of question. After some more discussion and explaing a few facts from continuing with such thin pen design that, even if making them with Resifill would be possible that, transortation/shipping and customer's handling, would be considered very fragile, people will need to know how fragile it will be abd things to avoid.

He brough me 10 of the Resifill blanks I had made for him, he askeded me if I could help him making the pens, he had a few orders and he was very behind, he had spent a couple of months playing with it and only a single Resifill pen was finished, Resifills pens was what he had on order after he shown the pics of the blanks for people to select the blank they wanted their pen made with so, he was really in troubles.

His request was made not long after I was starting to feel a little better from 3 1/2 months of hell so, I know that I could help this fellow and get those 10 pens done so that he could complete the transactions with his customers.

I decided that, keeping them so thin would require very small brass inserts, considering the diameter of the thin part of the pens, I concluded that, the biggest inserts I could use would have to be 2mm OD so, I ordered a dozen of them froman UK supplier and then I had to order also some long 2mm drill bits.

It took a couple of weeks before I had those items here so, as soon as I could, I started drilling and gluing the inserts into the blanks. I use the lathe to drill them, it wasn't easy to match the hole centre because the drill bit wasn't long enough so, I had to drill from both ends.

005.JPG

Some of the difficult has come from some of the woods/pods that he wanted me to make his blanks with, he pratically selected some pen blanks I had on my web-store and request to have them made to match those, materials and colours. All woods and pods were stabilised but, I had some woods that had different densities after stabilized so, the drill bit would tend to follow the pass of least resistance and not always follow a straight line.

The flexibility of such thin drill bits have allowed some holes to start and come out at the blank's centre but, had a curve/bend between the 2 ends that, was going to play avoc when turning, I was sure.

Well, after the drilling and tubbing was done, I put the blank's insert ends between centres and rounded the blanks to clean any wood out of centre, the pic bellow show the blank, inserts and drill bit sizes I was going to use.

001.JPG002.JPG003.JPG

The plastic bags you see above, are the contents bits of each blank, what I mean is, drilling the blanks from both ends, I would endup with the brass and holes showing at each end, that would spoil the look so, I knew that I would have to "cap" each blank on each end and to do it with matching materials, wood/resin/colours I had to cut about 10mm from each end, mark bottom and top on the pieces and keep everything from getting mixed up so, plastic bags were one of the solutions.

I used his only Resifill pen done as the prototype, he wanted his blanks to have those sizes and as you can image, turning between centres without having a solid grip from the lathe's headstock end, any press put into the tailstock would become a problem, as soon as the diameters started to reduce dramatically, such small brass insert is simply not solid enough to maintain its straightness under any sort of compression/sandwishing.

I have at the moment all 10 pens made, capped and coated with 2 coats of super thin CA, I've done that yesterday evening and today I was expecting to finish them today however, we are having some cyclonic winds and plenty of rain so, I stayed in the house and keep looking at the security cameras for any roof tins sheets or something else that the wind may want to rip apart so, I may not touch them today, I soon as I have them finished, I will take a pic and share with everyone here.

PS: I have my rain coat and a chainsaw ready, just in case someone near me get's a tree falling down on them, I don't have to worry with that at my place, all trees here are small and away from the house.

Cheers
George
 
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1080Wayne

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Feb 5, 2006
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Brownfield, Alberta, Canada.
You are a brave man George . Not sure I totally understand . Did you have to drill from both ends ? Don`t think I have ever had a thin bit start and end on center with a curve in the middle . Usually for me they keep on curving until the bit breaks or it comes out the side of the blank .

A solid steel rod , cast into the hole , might ?? give a bit of added stiffness to help turning the thin section , but several more production steps .
 

robutacion

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
6,514
Location
Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
You are a brave man George . Not sure I totally understand . Did you have to drill from both ends ? Don`t think I have ever had a thin bit start and end on center with a curve in the middle . Usually for me they keep on curving until the bit breaks or it comes out the side of the blank .

A solid steel rod , cast into the hole , might ?? give a bit of added stiffness to help turning the thin section , but several more production steps .

Hi Wayne,

If you look at the blank's length compared to the drill bit, you see that I could not possible drill straight through from one end, the drill bit is too short for that so, I would drill 2/3 from one end (a little over that) and the rest from the other side.

Starting at the centre from both ends, is the easiest thing, will it meet at the blank's centre..? for the majority it wasn't far off, not compromising the turning of the thin area however, I had a couple that, the drill bit started to wonder to one side and kept going, when drilling from the other end, the drill bit started to wonder the same way and end up meeting at the same point that was a very noticeable curve, when I noticed the brass tube hitting somewhere and go very tight, removing the tube and looking into the whole against a light, I could see the curve.

I only got away with it because, where the drill bits met, was at 2/3 of the blank's length so, was only a matter of marking which end I needed to use for the thickest part of the pen, otherwise, I would have got through the wood/resin on the thin part.

The 2 blanks I had this problem, they were made with the same wood (different colours) and the wood was the #26 Platypus Gum burl carved by Termites, that wood would be one of the hardest woods I ever worked with, so hard so that, the Termites weren't capable to penetrate.

The Platypus Gum burl when green and not affected by Termites, is dense but quite workable but these 2 or 3" of the burl's edge left un-eaten, was like going through cement/concreted, see here.

It happens that the piece of wood was in a shape of a wedge and the drill bit follow the softer Epoxy resin edge, it happens that, from the other end, the drill follow the same path endup meeting almost perfectly, there was just a small edge that the sharp end of the brass tube kept hitting, rounding that insert edge, I was able to get the tube to go all the way, but just..!:eek::frown:

There are 2 things that took a lot longer than expected, one was to cap the blanks ends after turned, the thinner end is almost all hollow brass and the glue would not stick strong enough to stay there while rounding that end by end/disk sander I may have complicated things but using thin strips of Colonial Red gum wood to sandwiched between the blank's/pen ends and the pieces of the blank I had cut originally from each blank, to match the best I could. Only a couple of these thin ends endup being finished with other pieces of wood, the off-cut I had for it, endup being all used from having it to fly away when on the sander.

The other thing was the fact that, after capped was nothing to mount them on the lathe to apply the CA finish so, every CA layer has been applied off-hand, one half at the time. I endup putting 3 more coats on single one this evening and tomorrow, I should be able to give it one final coat, making it 6 thin CA coats in total and then sand and polish, again, all by hand, there is, the blank on one hand and the rest on the other hand. :eek::mad:

Why do I get involved with these "things"...??? I'm obviously addictive to pain, huh...???

I have attached a pic I took tonight of the bunch, I will take better/closer pics after properly finished.

001.JPG

Cheers
George
 

1080Wayne

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Joined
Feb 5, 2006
Messages
3,344
Location
Brownfield, Alberta, Canada.
Thank you for the detailed explanation George . Don`t think I can cure your addiction to pain . Getting an even coat with hand application of thin CA to a flat surface is very difficult . A cylindrical one is impossible . But for some reason your problem put my brain in gear .

Take a 1 inch thick chunk of HDPE or UHMWHDPE longer than the pen , drill a hole in it an inch or so longer than the pen , half ? fill it with CA (I would be tempted to try medium , not extra thin) , devise a method to hold the pen by the large end while dipping , hold until dripping stops , maybe spray accelerant into a large container and use it as a fume chamber to hold the pen into rather than spraying directly onto the pen (should minimize sanding) . Repeat process once or twice .

Unused CA should be reclaimable because it won`t stick very well to HDPE . You will end up with a slightly thickened thin end which can be sanded down . Now that I think of it , the process sounds so good that I may even try it myself !

Most importantly , make sure the young guy knows that he is selling a $150 pen .
 
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robutacion

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
6,514
Location
Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
Thank you for the detailed explanation George . Don`t think I can cure your addiction to pain . Getting an even coat with hand application of thin CA to a flat surface is very difficult . A cylindrical one is impossible . But for some reason your problem put my brain in gear .

Take a 1 inch thick chunk of HDPE or UHMWHDPE longer than the pen , drill a hole in it an inch or so longer than the pen , half ? fill it with CA (I would be tempted to try medium , not extra thin) , devise a method to hold the pen by the large end while dipping , hold until dripping stops , maybe spray accelerant into a large container and use it as a fume chamber to hold the pen into rather than spraying directly onto the pen (should minimize sanding) . Repeat process once or twice .

Unused CA should be reclaimable because it won`t stick very well to HDPE . You will end up with a slightly thickened thin end which can be sanded down . Now that I think of it , the process sounds so good that I may even try it myself !

Most importantly , make sure the young guy knows that he is selling a $150 pen .

Hahahah, I'm glad that my work has brought your inventive juices up to the surface and re-reading your idea, it seems workable however, there is only one problem with it and that is that, the fat end of the pen has to be finished with CA the same as the pen, there is a slight "roundness" of that surface where a thin cut needs to be done to insert the brass nib holder (that will be done by him...!)

I thought in a couple of possible ways myself, all would need to time to make and test, I decided to save myself some time and do it by hand.

In fact, doing the CA application with thin CA by hand on a round surface, is a lot easier for me than a flat surface, I use the fingers of the latex gloves to spread the CA as I rotate the piece with the other hand, thin CA dries so fast that, you have a few short seconds to spread the CA and move the fingers away from the CA, a couple of times I got the CA running into the hand holding the pen and I had to rip some skin to get it out with some extra damn sanding to clean the mess up.

One of the things that takes so much longer than applying the CA on a lathe, is the sanding, which has to be dome in between each coat to smooth the surface sufficiently before the next coat is applied, this method can not spread the CA as evenly and smooth and the normal application on the lathe and I knew that, I was going to coat the pens with sanding sealer and them spray some tough varnish on them, buff and would be done but, I needed that extra penetration and strength that various layers of thin CA will give to the fragile material wrapped around the brass insert.

As for the "detailed" explanations, I like to explore the thoughts as I write them...!:wink:

Cheers
George
 

1080Wayne

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Messages
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Location
Brownfield, Alberta, Canada.
Sorry I wasn`t totally clear in my suggestion George . The entire pen has to be dipped . A flat head #4 screw into the end where the slit will terminate , a rare earth magnet glued to a dowel to serve as a push/pull rod . Pull the dipped pen out and the excess CA will stream off the small end of the pen . Keep absolutely vertical and you will end up with a uniform coat . Let cure naturally or try to accelerate as I suggested . Should be just about zero sanding required ( I THINK) .
 

robutacion

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Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
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Location
Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
Sorry I wasn`t totally clear in my suggestion George . The entire pen has to be dipped . A flat head #4 screw into the end where the slit will terminate , a rare earth magnet glued to a dowel to serve as a push/pull rod . Pull the dipped pen out and the excess CA will stream off the small end of the pen . Keep absolutely vertical and you will end up with a uniform coat . Let cure naturally or try to accelerate as I suggested . Should be just about zero sanding required ( I THINK) .

I understood your suggestions right, I didn't consider that, while I have to make that fat end smooth with CA, a groove is required later on so, you are correct, I could use that fact to have somewhere I could attach something to allow the dipping of the full pen.

I only need one more coat so, is no point in trying your system but, I will suggest that to the young fellow, he has or wants to make a few pens in one go, the CA after used in the dipping will get contaminated and will set/harden in no time, having a dozen or so pens to do at one time, it will certain worth the investment compared with the time and effort to doing it by hand.

I also believe that, with some care, the sanding can be dramatically reduced that way, thanks for the idea...!:biggrin:

Cheers
George
 

robutacion

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Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
6,514
Location
Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
Job done...!

I've got them done, and glad I did...!:redface:

I spend a lot more time with them than I would like but, I never leave a job half done so, I soldier on until done.

Let's see what the young guy says about them...!:)

Hope you learned something following me on this journey, I sure learn something.:biggrin:

Cheers
George
 

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