Closed End fountain pen from a kit?

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mikeschn

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Hey Guys,

So I'd like to make a closed end fountain pen. I'm not ready to do the whole thing from scratch yet. So I would probably need a kit of some kind. Any suggestions on what I should start with?

Mike...
 
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Hey Mike! I own Bullseye Turning Supply and I appreciate the mentions above. If you have any questions about the Apollo let me know. It's American made and not nearly as challenging to make as it may look. You can check out my instructional video here
 

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Kate Harrow's excellent Apollo and Artemis kits notwithstanding, you can also make closed-end fountain pens from almost any fountain pen kit currently available. You will need a pin chuck for each of the barrels which can be obtained from Rick Herrell (on the IAP Vendor Forum ).
 
The Apollo's are good. I have a bunch of them.

I'm also looking for a good Jr. kit to turn into a closed end. I was going to get some Jr Gent II's, but they only come in rollerball (and you have to buy the FP adapter separately. Any other good suggestions for a FP kit that uses 10.5mm and 12.5mm drills? What's popular?
 
I made this Churchill kit into a closed-end pen. Drill the barrel for the regular tube, and just a little further with a 7mm bit. Then you can glue a short piece of slimline tube deep inside. This will allow you to adapt a regular mandrel by grinding the tip into a chisel "drive spur" and just use a single barrel bushing at the opening - no special "grabber" mandrel needed.

Cocobolo burl Churchill -1.jpg
Cocobolo burl Churchill -2.jpg
 
duncsuss said:
I made this Churchill kit into a closed-end pen. Drill the barrel for the regular tube, and just a little further with a 7mm bit. Then you can glue a short piece of slimline tube deep inside. This will allow you to adapt a regular mandrel by grinding the tip into a chisel "drive spur" and just use a single barrel bushing at the opening - no special "grabber" mandrel needed.

View attachment 351926View attachment 351927
Click to expand...
Oh, that Churchill is nice!!!

Mike...
 
Okay, I have a question... if I want to turn an Atrax or some other kit pen, can I leave the brass tubes out, and glue in the bits and pieces? Or do you recommend using the brass tubes, and pressing in the bits and pieces? I would be using acrylic, so nothing fragile!

It looks like these are the only 2 bits that need gluing or pressing in:

IMG_6520a.jpg


Mike...
 
Last edited:
duncsuss said:
I made this Churchill kit into a closed-end pen. Drill the barrel for the regular tube, and just a little further with a 7mm bit. Then you can glue a short piece of slimline tube deep inside. This will allow you to adapt a regular mandrel by grinding the tip into a chisel "drive spur" and just use a single barrel bushing at the opening - no special "grabber" mandrel needed.

View attachment 351926View attachment 351927
Click to expand...
@duncsuss

Is that a #6 nib I see on your Churchill?


Mike...
 
@duncsuss LOL

It's a shame that Berea doesn't give the nib sizes....

But the section looks the same as what I have on the El Grande, so I'd agree, it's probably a #6.

Mike...
 
mikeschn said:
Okay, I have a question... if I want to turn an Atrax or some other kit pen, can I leave the brass tubes out, and glue in the bits and pieces? Or do you recommend using the brass tubes, and pressing in the bits and pieces? I would be using acrylic, so nothing fragile!

It looks like these are the only 2 bits that need gluing or pressing in:



Mike...
Click to expand...
When I've made closed-end pens from kits, I've always included the tubes.

Two reasons. First, I only work in wood, and the turning will be very thin and therefore not very strong if the tube is omitted.
Second, the visible/functional components such as the section, and the coupler (if the cap is a screw on) are sized to press into the tube, and if the tube isn't there, you would have to find some other way to assemble the pen. I suppose that is possible, but not something I would want to do.
 
I recommend that you always use a tube as much as possible. If I doubt whether the wall is strong enough, I glue the insert in the tube. Sand to size first.
 
Thanks for the suggestions... I just came up with another reason to use tubes...

I use a couple pin chucks on the lathe...

If I don't use tubes I have to make the holes larger so there is no press fit when assembling... and then when I go to use the pin chucks, they don't hold!!!

o_O
 
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