fisherhahn
Member
I SOOO wish I paid the $8 for expedited shipping. I want to start playing! Thanks for those videos Keith very helpful.
Shane - You asked about sanding etc.: I sanded out to 600 grit, then applied one coat of Myland's Sanding Sealer, then sanded out to 600 grit again, repeated the cycle a second time, then burned with the laser engraver, then did 3 applications of Myland's friction polish without sanding in between - just "friction polishing" between coats at higher rpm with a Scott's shop towel (as usual):
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Hope this clarifies it.
- Bob
So has anyone tried the 1000mw version on Alumilite or PR yet? Did it actually engrave, or did the pen say "Nice try...better luck next time" to the laser?
Well now I'm curious what it would take. I'd like to be able to have something deep enough in PR and Alumilite to fill in with paint
Well now I'm curious what it would take. I'd like to be able to have something deep enough in PR and Alumilite to fill in with paint
40W CO2 laser to start. You're looking at around $350 investment in the machine for the Chinese ones and I've put about $200 into mine to make it what I would call usable.
But it burns and cuts acrylics, alumilite, pr, ebonite, wood, etc... like butter.
Hey.
I am looking to maybe buy one of these. But I have a couple of questions, maybe someone here can asnwer :
On one of the ebay ads Ive found, it has some information, in Chinglish, so I am not sure if I understand it correctly. This it what it says :
Quote :
The difference between the Neje 300/500mW and the 1000mW :
300/500mW: High pixel, suitable for carving image at wood, bamboo, card etc.
1000mW: Higher energy, suitable for carving seals, PCB, leather, ivory, bubinga, paint metal etc.
So, does this mean that the 300 or 500mW will have a higher resolution than the 1000mW ? If so, will the lower watt machines be better suitable for pen engraving ?
Thank you
Vegard
Do you know of an example for one like the one you are using?
Carl,
I have one of those machines and it does cut nicely. However not being an engineer I struggle with some of the set ups and and sometimes takes 10-12 efforts to get the cut/burn in the correct alignment. Do you have any tricks/tips etc that you would be willing to share?
Hey.
I am looking to maybe buy one of these. But I have a couple of questions, maybe someone here can asnwer :
On one of the ebay ads Ive found, it has some information, in Chinglish, so I am not sure if I understand it correctly. This it what it says :
Quote :
The difference between the Neje 300/500mW and the 1000mW :
300/500mW: High pixel, suitable for carving image at wood, bamboo, card etc.
1000mW: Higher energy, suitable for carving seals, PCB, leather, ivory, bubinga, paint metal etc.
So, does this mean that the 300 or 500mW will have a higher resolution than the 1000mW ? If so, will the lower watt machines be better suitable for pen engraving ?
Thank you
Vegard
Do you know of an example for one like the one you are using?
Carl,
I have one of those machines and it does cut nicely. However not being an engineer I struggle with some of the set ups and and sometimes takes 10-12 efforts to get the cut/burn in the correct alignment. Do you have any tricks/tips etc that you would be willing to share?
yes and yes but I really don't want to take over the OPs thread. Maybe we could spin up a new one to discuss the bigger machines.
Well now I'm curious what it would take. I'd like to be able to have something deep enough in PR and Alumilite to fill in with paint
40W CO2 laser to start. You're looking at around $350 investment in the machine for the Chinese ones and I've put about $200 into mine to make it what I would call usable.
But it burns and cuts acrylics, alumilite, pr, ebonite, wood, etc... like butter.
Well now I'm curious what it would take. I'd like to be able to have something deep enough in PR and Alumilite to fill in with paint
40W CO2 laser to start. You're looking at around $350 investment in the machine for the Chinese ones and I've put about $200 into mine to make it what I would call usable.
But it burns and cuts acrylics, alumilite, pr, ebonite, wood, etc... like butter.
Carl,
I assume that you have the 40W Chinese laser that they sell on e-bay. If yes, do you know if it will run on Windows 10? I have not been able to get a good answer from some of the sellers.
My biggest issue was getting the software to download (my protection software had to be turned off to get it, and it still flags a Trojan virus has been blocked every time I run it).
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be)
So has anyone tried the 1000mw version on Alumilite or PR yet? Did it actually engrave, or did the pen say "Nice try...better luck next time" to the laser?
Just performed an experiment. Put an un-turned PR blank (PR from Woodnwhimsies) flat-side up in the engraver. At a burn speed of 60, which is plenty for wood, there were no results visible and the burn took about three minutes.
I then bumped the burn time all the way up. It took over 17 minutes. Yes, there is a very slight impression in the PR. Unless you know what it issupposed to be, you would probably be unable to read it.
So, I would say "no", 1W is not enough to engrave PR. I suspect Alumilite, acrylic, etc. would also not work.
Regards,
Michael
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be)
I dunno, but I'll try it when I get home this afternoon and report back. Looking forward to the smell (not!).
Regards,
Michael
My biggest issue was getting the software to download (my protection software had to be turned off to get it, and it still flags a Trojan virus has been blocked every time I run it).
John, I turned my AVG anti-virus off for the install. Once installed, I let AVG remove the "Trojan" and the software continues to work. YMMV.
Regards,
Michael
Nice clean burn onto (heat cured) copper metallic color Sculpey Premo polymer clay, rolled in a pasta roller to 3/64" thickness - opens up some nice possibilities.
I haven't tried uncured poly clay yet - but will (soon).
I burned this outside (noxious fumes):
I've been following this thread, and this looks interesting to me. I don't see in the specs what the maximum thickness of material is that this will work on. I'm guessing from the Gearbest photos that an 1 to 1-1/4 inches may be the max, but would appreciate if anyone has this info or could test.
Thanks!
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be)
An on point article for those interested in lasers.
What's a Laser Engraver, and What Can You Do with One?
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be)
So, yes, antler seems to be no problem. Did this burn at "60". The lines are pretty thin in the graphic. More time would have made more of an impression. And yes, it does stink.
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Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.
Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.
So if you sell an engraved pen to a customer and they ask why some of the letters are missing, crooked, misshapen, or illegible, you can tell them it's because you used an $87 dollar laser and that's the best it can do. They'll say that's okay? I know these are experiments, but I don't understand the enthusiasm based on some of the results shown. If everything shown was perfect, heck I would plunk down the $87.
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be)
So, yes, antler seems to be no problem. Did this burn at "60". The lines are pretty thin in the graphic. More time would have made more of an impression. And yes, it does stink.
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I've seen some engravings posted that I would not be able to charge for because of quality issues. This one doesn't appear to be successful to me, yet you claim no problem with antler. I'm confused?
Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.
So if you sell an engraved pen to a customer and they ask why some of the letters are missing, crooked, misshapen, or illegible, you can tell them it's because you used an $87 dollar laser and that's the best it can do. They'll say that's okay? I know these are experiments, but I don't understand the enthusiasm based on some of the results shown. If everything shown was perfect, heck I would plunk down the $87.
Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.
So if you sell an engraved pen to a customer and they ask why some of the letters are missing, crooked, misshapen, or illegible, you can tell them it's because you used an $87 dollar laser and that's the best it can do. They'll say that's okay? I know these are experiments, but I don't understand the enthusiasm based on some of the results shown. If everything shown was perfect, heck I would plunk down the $87.
You've been turning pens for many years. How did your first pens turn out? I've probably spent an hour or two total with the engraver. Yes, there is a learning curve. :biggrin:
Regards,
Michael