sbwertz
Member
Does anyone use a chainsaw sharpener? Do you like it? Does it do a good job? Is it cost effective?
With 3 chainsaws, it is becoming an issue.
Sharon
With 3 chainsaws, it is becoming an issue.
Sharon
Chainsaw sharpener?
- Thread starter sbwertz
- Start date
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PenMan1
Member
Sharon:
I bought the dremel tool chainsaw sharpening set up. It works pretty well.
I bought the dremel tool chainsaw sharpening set up. It works pretty well.
Ed McDonnell
Member
After trying the dremel and the Harbor Freight electric sharpener (less than $20 on sale with a coupon (about what it is worth), I went back to sharpening with a file. If you only use your saw at your shop then the electric sharpeners are fine. If you are out in the woods or somewhere away from the sharpener, learning how to sharpen with a file can save the day.
If you have a couple different saws, constantly changing the setup on the electric sharpeners is a PITA.
My advice (and it's worth every penny you are paying for it) is to watch some videos on youtube and read some of the many sharpening tutorials on the web and learn to sharpen with a file.
If you regularly trash teeth on your chains (cutting nails or embedded wire) then you might as well just get used to buying new chains....or invest in a metal detector.
Just one persons opinion......
Ed
If you have a couple different saws, constantly changing the setup on the electric sharpeners is a PITA.
My advice (and it's worth every penny you are paying for it) is to watch some videos on youtube and read some of the many sharpening tutorials on the web and learn to sharpen with a file.
If you regularly trash teeth on your chains (cutting nails or embedded wire) then you might as well just get used to buying new chains....or invest in a metal detector.
Just one persons opinion......
Ed
I have and use 2 chainsaws with about 6 chains for each.
I use a Oregon 511 AX Chainsaw Chain Sharpener Grinder $$$$$
and I use a manual guide with correct files.
I also take my chains to a pro shop after I sharpen them 3 times each so they can fix my mess. They laugh at me because I do such a poor job sharpening...
I use a Oregon 511 AX Chainsaw Chain Sharpener Grinder $$$$$
and I use a manual guide with correct files.
I also take my chains to a pro shop after I sharpen them 3 times each so they can fix my mess. They laugh at me because I do such a poor job sharpening...
mhbeauford
Member
I use one. I have 6 chains for my 25" bar. I used to do all my sharpening with a file. Now with arthritis in my hands I usually use my bench sharpener, one from Northern Tool. If set up and used CORRECTLY it does a good job. I still will touch up a chain now and then with a file. I do lots of bowl blanks from large log sections, some up to 36-40". I have access to an arborist's wood lot. Takes a sharp chain and lots of power to rip logs that size, especially woods like pecan.
76winger
Member
I just use the old fashioned chainsaw file and guide and sharpen by hand.
Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
I do the same.
PenMan1
Member
Mike of the North
Member
I have a Oregon power sharp on my chainsaw, it does not seem to cut as fast as my regular chain, but I was cutting some roots on a stump I was trying remove, and it was faster then changing the chain when it got dull. HD had them on clearance when I picked up mine so I only payed around $20 for it, if I am doing some thing where I run in to dirt or rocks I use it, otherwise I use my regular chain.
PenMan1
Member
Ditto, Mike! I thought it was just my imigination! I use the power sharp when I hit roots or dirt and that's about it.
I saw the dremel rep do a demo on using the jig template thingy (also available on You Tube) and I bought one. I can REALLY sharpen a chain in about 30 minutes.
BUT, the Oregon Power Sharp stays in the case (Husqvarna Rancher 455) simply because I can tune up the blade after roots, nails, dirt FASTER than I can tension the chain.
I guess it's all about "what you need and when you need it".
I saw the dremel rep do a demo on using the jig template thingy (also available on You Tube) and I bought one. I can REALLY sharpen a chain in about 30 minutes.
BUT, the Oregon Power Sharp stays in the case (Husqvarna Rancher 455) simply because I can tune up the blade after roots, nails, dirt FASTER than I can tension the chain.
I guess it's all about "what you need and when you need it".
PenMan1
Member
LOL! I've decided that I really DID need two chainsaws. My good one for fast, heavy cutting and THEN ole, cheap "root boy" for wallering in the mud.
Finatic
Member
I have been using an Oregon wall mounted sharpener since 1976. Have sharpened as part of my business for 5 years and kept the sharpener when I sold the business. Must have sharpened thousands of chains. The price has stayed fairly steady at around 350.00 for the machine and worth every penny.
robutacion
Member
Sharon,
Files are OK, for a in the bush touch up, rotary tools such as Dremel and diamond cutters are also great but will get to a stage where the teeth are totally out of angle and some are shorter the others and the chain can cut right however, sharpening the chain teeth is only one part of the chain performance as the rackers are crucial, determine how deep the tooth will go in the wood so the have to be filled/adjusted with the use of depth gauge.
I have about 12 chainsaw cutting tools from 10" to 36", I have more than 70 chains in between all sizes, that makes sharpening on site, almost not necessary as I simply change the chain, as soon as it stop cutting.
As I was saying before, hand sharpening will get the teeth uneven in length and only a machine shop, or someone with a proper sharpener, is able to correct that problem however, to do the job right, a fair portion of the teeth have to be cut down to match the shorter ones, that is one of the reasons why people complain about their chains get too much metal cut when taken to a sharpening shop.
The best way to preserve the teeth of the chain, is not cutting through dirt and anything that the common chains are not made to be used on secondly, if a chain is sharpen from new with a good bench sharpener, only a very small amount is taken at one time and the teeth are always kept the same length as they ware/are re-sharpen, this will increase considerably the life of the chain, get better results every time that is sharpen therefore, saving a lot of ware in the bar and sprocket.
The Oregon makes a few quality sharpeners, the Chinese makes them a dime a dozen however, there is one model that has all the functions of the more expensive units and that is proven to be a good sharpener, I know, I have one, and this is it, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2012-COMMERCIAL-CHAIN-SAW-GRINDER-CHAINSAW-SHARPENER-SPEC-TOOLS-3-DISKS-/181045415211?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2a2725cd2b&_uhb=1#ht_4189wt_1398
I got mine on special for $65.00 a few years back, they worth what they cost now, no doubt. I wouldn't touch those very cheap ones, the head does no pivot therefore, unable to give you the correct angles you require.
Good luck
Cheers
George
Sylvanite
Member
I used to hand sharpen my chains, and when that became unsatisfactory, I'd take them to a local hardware store to be machine sharpened. Eventually, I got tired of the hassle and expense, and I picked up a bench-mounted chain sharpener. The hardware store owner was kind enough to show me how he used his, and I've sharpened my chains ever since.
If you buy a chain sharpener, make sure you get one that has 3 axes of adjustment - many cheap ones only have 2 which isn't sufficient. You must be able to adjust the wheel angle, the chain angle, and either rock or slide the chain from side to side (I prefer rocking). Each chain style has specific grinding angles, and unless you understand what you're doing, you should stick to those settings. I change the tooth geometry on my chains to increase time between resharpening.
Having evenly sized and evenly sharp teeth is crucial to good cutting. My father-in-law gave me one of his chainsaws because it kept cutting in circles for him. It turned out that he wasn't sharpening it evenly and one side had longer teeth than the other. Once I ground them all equal, it cut true and it's my favorite saw.
I've found that once you knock the points off the teeth, they stop cutting well (there are chain designs that have round-shouldered teeth to last longer). Therefore, it's important to stop cutting and dress the chain. If you keep pushing a dull chain, the point will wear faster and you'll have to grind more material off the teeth to get it sharp again. A chain will last much longer if kept sharp.
When sharpening, it's also important to maintain the wheel profile (and I alter my wheel profile too), and it's absolutely vital to keep the chain cool. If you grind too slowly, or try to take off too much material, you can overheat the teeth and take the temper out. When that happens, the chain will dull very quickly.
There's a learing curve, but once you figure it out, sharpening you own chains can be very rewarding. Just like lathe tools, sharp chains are necessary to a good cut.
Regards,
Eric
If you buy a chain sharpener, make sure you get one that has 3 axes of adjustment - many cheap ones only have 2 which isn't sufficient. You must be able to adjust the wheel angle, the chain angle, and either rock or slide the chain from side to side (I prefer rocking). Each chain style has specific grinding angles, and unless you understand what you're doing, you should stick to those settings. I change the tooth geometry on my chains to increase time between resharpening.
Having evenly sized and evenly sharp teeth is crucial to good cutting. My father-in-law gave me one of his chainsaws because it kept cutting in circles for him. It turned out that he wasn't sharpening it evenly and one side had longer teeth than the other. Once I ground them all equal, it cut true and it's my favorite saw.
I've found that once you knock the points off the teeth, they stop cutting well (there are chain designs that have round-shouldered teeth to last longer). Therefore, it's important to stop cutting and dress the chain. If you keep pushing a dull chain, the point will wear faster and you'll have to grind more material off the teeth to get it sharp again. A chain will last much longer if kept sharp.
When sharpening, it's also important to maintain the wheel profile (and I alter my wheel profile too), and it's absolutely vital to keep the chain cool. If you grind too slowly, or try to take off too much material, you can overheat the teeth and take the temper out. When that happens, the chain will dull very quickly.
There's a learing curve, but once you figure it out, sharpening you own chains can be very rewarding. Just like lathe tools, sharp chains are necessary to a good cut.
Regards,
Eric
I'm an arborist and can get the best results sharpening by hand. I also have the Dremel setup, pretty slick trick but you can easily grind off more than needed if you're not careful. My preference is a hand file and a Swedish roller guide available from most suppliers. Also, one thing to always remember...new chain ISN'T sold sharp. You must sharpen the new chains.
John Pratt
Member
I currently have 8 chainsaws (all Stihl) of various engine size and bar lengths to include one that I use exclusively for milling boards with my Alaskan MKIII.
I use a file while on site to touch up chains, but I use an Oregon 510A to sharpen my chains in the shop. There is a slight learning curve to get it right the first couple of times, but once you get the hang of it and know your settings on the machine you can sharpen a chain in under 5 minutes.
If you have to sharpen your chains regularly or have several chains to sharpen, it is really the only way to go. Improper repeated sharpening of a chain with a file or one of those dremel tools (although some people have that mastered) can actually damage the chain beyond repair and could lead to damage of the saw or saw bar.
I use a file while on site to touch up chains, but I use an Oregon 510A to sharpen my chains in the shop. There is a slight learning curve to get it right the first couple of times, but once you get the hang of it and know your settings on the machine you can sharpen a chain in under 5 minutes.
If you have to sharpen your chains regularly or have several chains to sharpen, it is really the only way to go. Improper repeated sharpening of a chain with a file or one of those dremel tools (although some people have that mastered) can actually damage the chain beyond repair and could lead to damage of the saw or saw bar.
tomas
Member
I used one for several years and really liked it. I made the mistake of loaning it to a friend and he obviously really liked it since I have never seen it again.
Tomas
Tomas
Garrett'sWoodworx
Member
If you are only sharpening the same style chain on a single chainsaw, the Dremel setup is hard to beat! I've been using one for several years now and I have an older Dremel that stays set up for sharpening all the time - no adjustments necessary and it gives me a sharp blade - simple and quick.
Garrett
Garrett
KenBrasier
Member
It only takes a couple of minutes to change blades, so I carry 3 with me to the woods. I sharpen them with the inexpensive Harbor Freight Chain Sharpener, and am very happy with the results..... But I'm just an amature.