Casting resin recommendations / suggestions

[amtechrs]

Hello all,

I'm preparing to pour a sort of hybrid blank, using laser cut segments. Please excuse the photo dump, but just want to get my idea (hairbrained as it may be) across. I've only used Alumilite slow for my castings, with generally okay results. I really don't want any air bubbles in these. I do use a pressure pot. What I've done is to make a 'sacrificial' center box that supports some ornate segments, along with an outer sacrificial box to give space for the resin to flow around and through the oranate pieces. I'm wondering what you all might think would be best to use as far as the resin is concerned? I thought about deep pour or even table top epoxy, just to give more time and less viscosity to seep into all the crevices. I was hoping to mix two colors using mica powder, but not waiting for the resin to heat up and start curing before pouring. I'm obviously pretty new at this, so any pointers or suggestions are much appreciated! Again, sorry for the photo dump....

Here is the center (supporting) box, that the ornate pieces are spot glued to;

Before assembling;

Using a temporary box to locate the ornate segments onto the inner box.

Inner box with ornate pieces glued to it

Outer sacrificial box assembled around the ornate section box.

And finaly assemblies in the blank mold;

Let me know if you just think I'm just plain crazy. I'm not expecting a great result, but really testing the waters for adapting this further...

Again, thank you for your consideration and any feedback!

Best,
Richard

 

[jttheclockman]

I don't follow any of that and wish you well. My 2 cents to thi is use an epoxy resin. it sticks well to everything and has a long open time. I am a fan of Liquid Diamonds resin.

 

[1080Wayne]

I think I understand what you are trying to do , but suspect the result won`t be optimum in my eyes , but may in yours . I only use Alumilite regular or slow , and seldom have problems with it entering tight cracks at 40 psi .

Horizontal casting will never allow you to see the resin flow lines that a vertical system will . They can be very attractive in mono-colour casts , and probably would in the 2 colour one you propose , also . However , the secret to achieving it is to have the item being cast have a light friction fit to the mould . That way , as you force the object down into the resin , it has to follow the cavities you have left for it , and that route shows up in the orientation of the mica pigment . The friction fit also ensures that the object being cast doesn`t float up due to having lower density than the resin .

So , if I were doing it , the last box would would be a leak proof solid one .

 

[JohnU]

To me it seems like an awful lot of sacrificial parts to try and get resin around without creating a place for air to hang up. It might be easier to construct the parts you want to be seen, around a brass tube, if you know
what pen you want to put it on. Your biggest challenge will be getting resin in the tight stops under the blank while casting flat like that. Color separation will also be a challenge because you need to pour thin resin to get in all the small voids but to keep good color separation the resin needs to be thicker between 90°- 115°. I wouldn't be afraid to use clear, clear slow, or any epoxy. Pressure will be needed because that wood will hold air and may seep out as the resin cures. I think the less wood in there the better your chances.

 

[RDHals]

Richard in at least one of the pics I see a hole in the center of the wood. Are the tubes already in there? That could change things if they are.

 

[amtechrs]

Richard in at least one of the pics I see a hole in the center of the wood. Are the tubes already in there? That could change things if they are.

Hi Russell! No, these will be drilled out. The central 'skeleton' box will be entirely drilled out. The holes on the ends of the outer sacrificial box is simply for resin flow through.

 

[Curly]

I think this might be a difficult blank to pull off but if you can it will look neat. I would suggest some vibrating might shake loose some of the bubbles. A jigsaw, orbital sander or possibly a sawzall against the side of the table or mold could work. Looking forward to seeing what happens.

I'll add some notches cut into the outside would give a place for bubbles to escape from.

 

[amtechrs]

I think this might be a difficult blank to pull off but if you can it will look neat. I would suggest some vibrating might shake loose some of the bubbles. A jigsaw, orbital sander or possibly a sawzall against the side of the table or mold could work. Looking forward to seeing what happens.

I'll add some notches cut into the outside would give a place for bubbles to escape from.

Great idea, thanks Peter! Again, I'm not expecting a lot, but just trying for proof of concept before going too crazy with this approach. Stay tuned! I did order some Liquid Diamonds, per John's preference. However, I think I'll just try using the Alumilite slow I have this evening, and perhaps the Liquid Diamonds the next go around (if there is a next go around....).

 

[Alan Morrison]

Richard, I don't cast, or turn resin even, so am zero benefit to you, however I am very interested in how this turns out.
Life is all about learning, so all the best with this.

 

[RDHals]

In my opinion your best chance of success or how I would try is to forget the color. As John Underhill said to keep the color separation it's got to be 98-110deg and at that temp it will be to thick to get everywhere you need it. Mix it and pour it as quick as you can then shake, vibrate, move the mold to get the resin everywhere and the air out. Then get it into the pressure pot.
Good luck, I'd love to see the result either way.

 

[Dustman]

To me it seems like an awful lot of sacrificial parts to try and get resin around without creating a place for air to hang up. It might be easier to construct the parts you want to be seen, around a brass tube, if you know
what pen you want to put it on. Your biggest challenge will be getting resin in the tight stops under the blank while casting flat like that. Color separation will also be a challenge because you need to pour thin resin to get in all the small voids but to keep good color separation the resin needs to be thicker between 90°- 115°. I wouldn't be afraid to use clear, clear slow, or any epoxy. Pressure will be needed because that wood will hold air and may seep out as the resin cures. I think the less wood in there the better your chances.

John, Sorry for the slight change of topic. I am new to casting. My work shop temp sits right about mid 50's to low 60's. I use alumalite slow. I have a good thermometer. I can warm up my mold and other material in the house. My wife, naturally, doesn't want me doing the actual casting in the house. Considering my shop temps, if I let the resin warm up to the 90 + degrees will it be too thick? Or, should I send my other half to the garage while I cast? Yeah, right!

 

[JohnU]

John, Sorry for the slight change of topic. I am new to casting. My work shop temp sits right about mid 50's to low 60's. I use alumalite slow. I have a good thermometer. I can warm up my mold and other material in the house. My wife, naturally, doesn't want me doing the actual casting in the house. Considering my shop temps, if I let the resin warm up to the 90 + degrees will it be too thick? Or, should I send my other half to the garage while I cast? Yeah, right!

I always warm the cup of Side B resin of clear and clear slow up to 90°-100°. It thins it down to mix easier and quicker. Side A is always thinner with the two resins and shouldn't need warming. That way the overall temp is still in the 70's° after mixed leaving plenty of time for coloring or pouring.
Also, just make sure you're making your better half new pens and she won't mind you casting as much. Lol.

Best of luck !

 

[jrista]

I don't follow any of that and wish you well. My 2 cents to thi is use an epoxy resin. it sticks well to everything and has a long open time. I am a fan of Liquid Diamonds resin.

I think John has the best recommendation right here with Liquid Diamonds. I've used a few resins, and this stuff is pretty amazing as far as no bubbles go. It isn't 100% perfect, but out of the various kinds of epoxy and alumilite I've used so far, Liquid Diamonds is by far the least bubble prone of them all.

 

[amtechrs]

Well, so far anyway, it's looking promising. First off, I stayed just shy of topping off the cavity with resin, and the level went down a bit in the pressure pot and there is one visible bubble in the corner of two of the top 'windows' of the outer box. It'll be close as to whether I can turn down enough to clean up that surface. If I would have added a bit more resin, I think it'd be no problem. I also went a little overboard and mixed four colors to push the boundary. I warmed the mold and inserts at 125 F, and I put both jugs of resin in a sink with warm/hot water. I measured out four equal portions of side A into cups and added the mica powder to each and mixed, then added the remaining portion of side B and mixed, then started drizzling them in. Alternating randomly. I'll let these set another day or two before turning them down. I think I'll just drill a 7mm hole through them and turn them without gluing a tube in. At least one of them, first. Thank you all for the feedback and advise. Special thanks to Kenny for chatting with me and sharing his knowledge and experience!!

Also, I understand there still might be bubbles on the inside components.... We shall see!

You can see one of the bubbles here.

 

[Kenny Durrant]

Looks good. I hope it works out well. Very curious as to what the final product will look like. Thanks for sharing.

 

[JohnU]

Looks good so far… I'm hoping for the best and looking forward to seeing the finished results!

 

[amtechrs]

Okay, here's the reveal. I think it was generally a success. I didn't plan on using either of the blanks to build a pen with, but I might on the second one. Again, I went a little crazy with the resin colors, but was inspired by a blank I saw online that looked like the colors of earth from orbit, sort of. Anyway, I just drilled 1/4" through to mount up and turn down to reveal what would approximate the finished blank diameter. The first blank, I used walnut for the ornate pieces, and that didn't go well at all with the dark colors. Luckily I used myrtlewood for the second, and it looks pretty cool, to me. The original bubbles that were on top did show up on the walnut blank. There were only a few micro bubbles on the myrtlewood blank. I think I'll continue experimenting with this method...

 

[egnald]

I think it turned out pretty fantastic. - Dave

 

[amtechrs]

I think it turned out pretty fantastic. - Dave

Thanks Dave! I know you want to do some casting experiments as well, with the laser segments.

 

[Kenny Durrant]

Wow! I think it looks Great.

 

[derekdd]

I don't follow any of that and wish you well. My 2 cents to thi is use an epoxy resin. it sticks well to everything and has a long open time. I am a fan of Liquid Diamonds resin.

That's what the missus and I use for our resin/wood projects. Seems to perform well and doesn't yellow like some of the others we've worked with. Fewer bubbles, also, though that might be my imagination.

I've not gotten into making pen blanks yet, but we do have the nice Cali pressure pot. I just need to buy some molds.

@amtechrs that turned out great, especially for an experiment. Such creative use of laser tech.

 

[Dustman]

I always warm the cup of Side B resin of clear and clear slow up to 90°-100°. It thins it down to mix easier and quicker. Side A is always thinner with the two resins and shouldn't need warming. That way the overall temp is still in the 70's° after mixed leaving plenty of time for coloring or pouring.
Also, just make sure you're making your better half new pens and she won't mind you casting as much. Lol.

Best of luck !

Thank you very much for the advise. I gave her the first pen I ever mad. What more could she ever want? Oh, a better one!