gpalm
Member
I've been experimenting with various finishes lately (as everyone does) trying to find something that works for them. My desire is glossy, durable and quick. (I extend my thanks to Pat from Pens by Patricia for sharing her ideas with me) Most of the finishes I've tried fit in two categories and really fell short in the third. CA intrigued me the most because it filled the two categories that I didn't have much control over because of material properties, durability and gloss. Speed is the one area that is totally under my control. Yes friction polish is significantly faster than CA, but the durability is much shorter in my limited experience.
Looking for methods to improve the speed, I tried several ideas I found on the net. None of which I was really happy with, superfine scotchbrite pads, pen kit bags, wax paper, boiled linseed oil etc... they all seemed to require excess sanding because of the limited control during application. Also, I was frequently getting the glue on my fingers. Then it dawned on me, wear a glove dummy!!! Ding!!! the light went on!!! Try applying the glue with a gloved finger tip. WahLah!!! it worked for me. I used nitrile gloves because that's what I have, I assume latex would work just as well. Tremendous control with how the CA goes on. My technique is as follows:
1) turn pen as usual (I turn at 2000 > 2500 rpm)
2) sand to 400
3) lathe running (1500 > 2000 rpm, the higher speeds seem to work for me), glasses on and glove on and tool rest moved out of the way.
4) gloved finger lightly rubbing bottom of pen, using thin CA, lightly rub bottle tip to edge of pen, apply thin enough coat just to wet surface. If you keep the application thin enough you won't get any splater, even at the higher speeds.
5) slide finger and bottle rapidly across pen blank as glue dispenses evenly, let dry or use accelerator.
6) lightly scuff with 400 to break surface.
7) repeat 4 & 5 with thick CA
8) lightly sand with 400 to level minor flaws, if I break through I repeat 7 & 8.
9) lightly sand with 600
repeat 4 & 5 with thin CA
10) lightly sand 1000 thru 2000 (I have not tried Micromesh yet, I still kind of a Newbie!!!)
11) I then use the original (dark) HUT PPP stick, it seems to have just enough abrasive to polish the CA. The HUT Ultra gloss plastic polish works as well, but sometimes cuts a little too much, a little too fast, I'm still playin'!
12) then an application of the HUT white (gloss) PPP
13) finally a coat of Renaissance Wax
It certainly isn't as fast as friction polish, but the CA sure seems to be a lot more durable. The key was fine control with a gloved finger tip, it works for me.
Thanks again,
Gregg
P.S. I remove the nasty fumes & dust from the lathe spindle/work area with a section of Loc-Line & rectangular funnel shaped attachment that is connected to my dust collection.
Looking for methods to improve the speed, I tried several ideas I found on the net. None of which I was really happy with, superfine scotchbrite pads, pen kit bags, wax paper, boiled linseed oil etc... they all seemed to require excess sanding because of the limited control during application. Also, I was frequently getting the glue on my fingers. Then it dawned on me, wear a glove dummy!!! Ding!!! the light went on!!! Try applying the glue with a gloved finger tip. WahLah!!! it worked for me. I used nitrile gloves because that's what I have, I assume latex would work just as well. Tremendous control with how the CA goes on. My technique is as follows:
1) turn pen as usual (I turn at 2000 > 2500 rpm)
2) sand to 400
3) lathe running (1500 > 2000 rpm, the higher speeds seem to work for me), glasses on and glove on and tool rest moved out of the way.
4) gloved finger lightly rubbing bottom of pen, using thin CA, lightly rub bottle tip to edge of pen, apply thin enough coat just to wet surface. If you keep the application thin enough you won't get any splater, even at the higher speeds.
5) slide finger and bottle rapidly across pen blank as glue dispenses evenly, let dry or use accelerator.
6) lightly scuff with 400 to break surface.
7) repeat 4 & 5 with thick CA
8) lightly sand with 400 to level minor flaws, if I break through I repeat 7 & 8.
9) lightly sand with 600
repeat 4 & 5 with thin CA
10) lightly sand 1000 thru 2000 (I have not tried Micromesh yet, I still kind of a Newbie!!!)
11) I then use the original (dark) HUT PPP stick, it seems to have just enough abrasive to polish the CA. The HUT Ultra gloss plastic polish works as well, but sometimes cuts a little too much, a little too fast, I'm still playin'!
12) then an application of the HUT white (gloss) PPP
13) finally a coat of Renaissance Wax
It certainly isn't as fast as friction polish, but the CA sure seems to be a lot more durable. The key was fine control with a gloved finger tip, it works for me.
Thanks again,
Gregg
P.S. I remove the nasty fumes & dust from the lathe spindle/work area with a section of Loc-Line & rectangular funnel shaped attachment that is connected to my dust collection.