CA/BLO Sanding with MM

[Bobalu]

I noted while watching Russ Fairfield's video on CA/BLO finish that he mentions in the very early part of the video he has sanded the blanks to 12000 MM. Just curious whether anyone knows if he means wet or dry sanding. It would make sense to me that it be a dry sanding, as water would tend to lift the grain. On the other hand, most articles I've read on Micro Mesh sanding recommend it always be done wet, as the MM lasts longer.

Bob in GA

 

[redbulldog]

I have never used my micromesh wet for any sanding!

 

[JBCustomPens]

I would assume he means dry sanding. Unless with acrylic, I never wet sand with mm. Hope this helps

 

[nytefaii]

Any time I touch MM, it's wet.

 

[leehljp]

Pen making is quite different than other forms of woodworking. Sometimes and in some situations - wet sanding is OK and other times wet sanding will introduce undesirable characteristics. A flat rule of "one way always" for pens can cause frustration. IF you were in most of Arizona, wet sanding would probably be OK as it would dry off/out fairly quick. Other dry areas will be the same.

The fact that CA cures so quickly, people rush to add more layers and get through quickly. In terms of guitars, where MM is often used, wet sanding is OK because those people are into finishing over a muuuuch longer term, and few problems arise because of it. But Pens . . . CA cures fast but water sanding leaves behind residual moisture that causes clouding. DNA will do the same as water.

When using DNA or water, you should allow the same amount of time for drying as you would when wet sanding a guitar or fine furniture finish.

 

[PaulSF]

I recall someone suggesting that you use mineral spirits rather than water, when using micromesh on wood. Are there times when that is absolutely (or absolutely not) appropriate?

 

[RussFairfield]

I dry sand the wood to 12,000 MM, and then wet sand the finish to 12,000 MM, but use a wax lubricant. Any paste wax works.

 

[Bree]

Pen making is quite different than other forms of woodworking. Sometimes and in some situations - wet sanding is OK and other times wet sanding will introduce undesirable characteristics. A flat rule of "one way always" for pens can cause frustration. IF you were in most of Arizona, wet sanding would probably be OK as it would dry off/out fairly quick. Other dry areas will be the same.

The fact that CA cures so quickly, people rush to add more layers and get through quickly. In terms of guitars, where MM is often used, wet sanding is OK because those people are into finishing over a muuuuch longer term, and few problems arise because of it. But Pens . . . CA cures fast but water sanding leaves behind residual moisture that causes clouding. DNA will do the same as water.

When using DNA or water, you should allow the same amount of time for drying as you would when wet sanding a guitar or fine furniture finish.

Hank called the shot on this. You can wet sand CA with MM and it loves to be wet sanded... BUT... if you get some of that water into the wood or under the CA... BAD things are going to happen. I know this for a fact having ruined several pens wet sanding the CA.

I stopped wet sanding CA because I do exactly what Hank said... I try to finish fast. I am not a good candidate for wet sanding pens... unless they are acrylic. I wet sand all the acrylic pens I make with regular sandpaper and MM.
:wink::wink::wink:

 

[writestuff]

Why(?) wet sand?

I have always used wet sanding as a method to prolong the life of the sanding "paper". It alows me to remove the residu from the abrasive surface.
Instead of MMing the bare wood, I sand to 600 grit, then apply auto body rubbing sompound, (tripoli) or auto body polish, (white diamond). Warning, never use white diamond on dark, open pored woods. :biggrin:
WS.

 

[Bobalu]

Looks like the gang is in favor of dry sanding with MM on wood, so I'll get another set of MM pads and reserve them only for dry sanding. I'll retain the set I have now for wet sanding acrylics. These things never seem to dry out once they've been dunked in water. Maybe get a third set and use them for the finish sanding with the wax lubricant, as Russ suggested. Lots of good ideas here. Thanks.

Bob in GA

 

[maxwell_smart007]

i don't think I'd ever use MM dry - always wet for me....when I use an accelerator, it's essentially an instant cure, so the CA shouldn't be affected by the water...mind you, I always take a coffee break between CA application and MM sanding...

Andrew

 

[Chief Hill]

I wet MM sand less than 1 min after applying CA with Insta cure. I have never had an issue. IMHO when I can touch it and my hand does not get stuck its dry and ready for sanding. If its tacky it needs more insta cure. Or BLO... But I use it rarely.