CA/BLO Finish Problems

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tgraytn

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Nov 19, 2009
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I am new to using CA as I have used the traditional Hut wax bar in the past. I have just completed a few pens using the "I Can't Believe This Finish" set from Penn State Industries. I followed their video exactly. I tried it on Maple Burl, Kingwood and African Blackwood and all three were beautiful. The finish appeared very wet looking and had a lot of depth to it.

I then tried using the following method (with BLO) on an African Blackwood blank:

1. I Applied about 8-10 drops of CA on my towel (after sanding up to 12000 and then wiping the blank with a clean towel to remove the dust) and applied to the pen blank using two strokes with the lathe running at appx 500 RPM.
2. I then applied a decent puddle of BLO on a clean spot on the paper towel and applied with a fast motion back and forth. Once it seemed to be dry, I held the paper towel between my tumb and index finger so that heat would build up.
3. I then repeated steps 1 & 2 nine more times.
4. At this point I wet sanded the blank with 1000 up to 12000 (very lightly).
5. I then applied several coate of the One-Step polish and buffed it.

After I finished, this blank was not as shiny as the one that I did using just CA by itself. Any suggestions as to why? How do I achieve a "Wet Looking" blank using the CA/BLO combination.

Thanks for any help!

Tom
 
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leehljp

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There are two possibilities in my opinion, from what I am reading.

1. It is quite often that too thin a coating of CA is put on. Remember, if you apply it with paper towel, 9 drops on PT will give 1 or 2 drops on the pen - giving a much thinner coat than expected. At least 3 coats of medium over a couple of seal coats of thin; or 6 to 10 coats of thin. Too thin of a coating of CA will sand off in spots fairly easy, and produce a flat/dull finish. Another thing that happens is - if doing this on a mandrel that is a little of center, or off center bushings, one side will have the CA wiped or sanded off.

2. According to Russ Fairfield, BLO can cause dull finish on CA. There have been quite a few that have experienced this and mentioned it on this forum.
 

Lenny

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Really Hank, 9 or 10 drops? That seems like a lot to apply at one time. Isn't it better to let it build up gradually? But then I haven't tried it that way so maybe I should. =0)
 

leehljp

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Really Hank, 9 or 10 drops? That seems like a lot to apply at one time. Isn't it better to let it build up gradually? But then I haven't tried it that way so maybe I should. =0)

You know, I should have said 9 or 10 coats of thin CA.

The context of using Paper Towel as the applicator, using 9 to 10 drops - the vast majority of that will stay in the paper towel. Only the equivalent of 2 or 3 drops at the most will make it from the PT to the blank.

Many people get around this by using a light coat of BLO on the PT first and then more of the CA will go to the Blank. Of course less can be used in this case.

Either way, he probably needs to build up the coating.
 
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Dan26

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I only use BLO on the blank to enhance the color of the wood prior to CA. I use 3 to 4 drops of medium CA and wipe back and forth 2 or 3 times. I find on certain woods it takes 6 coats to get the wet look and on others it takes more. I'm not sure why people use BLO after applying CA. What does it do for the finish?
 

Lenny

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I only use BLO on the blank to enhance the color of the wood prior to CA. I use 3 to 4 drops of medium CA and wipe back and forth 2 or 3 times. I find on certain woods it takes 6 coats to get the wet look and on others it takes more. I'm not sure why people use BLO after applying CA. What does it do for the finish?

While I can't exactly explain the reason most use BLO after, I find it helps even out the CA as well as act as an accellerator.
I would be leery about using the BLO on the wood first without first giving it a coat of thin CA to seal it. The one time I tried BLO first it never seemed to dry and the finish got rather mucked up.
 
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Lenny

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You know, I should have said 9 or 10 coats of thin CA.

The context of using Paper Towel as the applicator, using 9 to 10 drops - the vast majority of that will stay in the paper towel. Only the equivalent of 2 or 3 drops at the most will make it from the PT to the blank.

Many people get around this by using a light coat of BLO on the PT first and then more of the CA will go to the Blank. Of course less can be used in this case.

Either way, he probably needs to build up the coating.

Yes, and I think I need to as well! Will give it a try next time. =0)
 
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Tellico Plains, Tennessee, USA.
I am new to using CA as I have used the traditional Hut wax bar in the past. I have just completed a few pens using the "I Can't Believe This Finish" set from Penn State Industries. I followed their video exactly. I tried it on Maple Burl, Kingwood and African Blackwood and all three were beautiful. The finish appeared very wet looking and had a lot of depth to it.

I then tried using the following method (with BLO) on an African Blackwood blank:

1. I Applied about 8-10 drops of CA on my towel (after sanding up to 12000 and then wiping the blank with a clean towel to remove the dust) and applied to the pen blank using two strokes with the lathe running at appx 500 RPM.


Thanks for any help!

Tom

Tom,
at the risk of starting a flame session, using a paper towel to apply your CA for me is a waste of CA.... most of the CA will soak into the towel and little will get to the blank.. especially if you are using thin CA... personally I finish with medium.

I use the foam sheet material that comes wrapped around new electronics.. like a vcr, dvd player etc... these are thin sheets of a poly foam that will not absorb the CA, most of the Ca doesn't stick to the pad and I get very little Ca on my fingers..... I cut the sheets into 1 x 2 inch strips.... you can put one or two drops of CA on the strip and wipe all of it onto the blank.

I rarely use BLO, except when I have a blank that needs to be popped to enhance the grain... when I do, I apply the BLO directly to the wood, then cover it with CA.
 

tgraytn

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Tennessee
Thanks Russ! I appreciate the link very much. I have read it thoroughly, printed it, took it to the shop and can't wait until morning to try it on a European pen kit using African Blackwood (my favorite)...
 

Jgrden

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hOUSTON, Texas
Tom,
at the risk of starting a flame session, using a paper towel to apply your CA for me is a waste of CA.... most of the CA will soak into the towel and little will get to the blank.. especially if you are using thin CA... personally I finish with medium.

I use the foam sheet material that comes wrapped around new electronics.. like a vcr, dvd player etc... these are thin sheets of a poly foam that will not absorb the CA, most of the Ca doesn't stick to the pad and I get very little Ca on my fingers..... I cut the sheets into 1 x 2 inch strips.... you can put one or two drops of CA on the strip and wipe all of it onto the blank.

I rarely use BLO, except when I have a blank that needs to be popped to enhance the grain... when I do, I apply the BLO directly to the wood, then cover it with CA.
Chit, that is the answer tomy problem. I have been buring my fingers using paper towel under cloth. I forgot about the styro stuff. Man this makes my day. Thank you. I am working on an antler now that gave me fits yesterday. I gave up on it and it sits on my workbench. I am going to sand it down and start over with your suggestion. Thanks again.
 

dustmaker

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Oct 22, 2009
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Gastonia, NC
I've also had good results using wax paper. CA doesn't stick to it as well and tends to smooth the CA as it is going on without ridges or valleys. Just something else to consider.
 
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