CA... aarghh!

[NotURMailman]

I had the best CA finish I had managed yet last night on a long tube click in Ziricote. Then I proceded to chip the ends when I tried to trim the excess before assembly. How frustrating!

I put it back between the bushings (delirn BTC bushings from PTP) and repaired it. But I can still see where it was repaired. I am so bummed. Everyone else says they can't tell, but I can.

What is everyone's most succesful method of getting rid of the excess CA before assembly?

No pics, I quit posting pics because I just get griped at about the photo quality...

 

[InvisibleMan]

I really improved my pens when I went completely between centers, especially during the finishing process. Between centers, the CA will simply roll over the end of the blank and be fairly even. It's then very simple to remove the blank and sand the ends smooth by hand. I put a piece of 400ish sand paper flat on my table, hold the blank on end and make gentle circles, rotating the blank every few circles to make sure I don't get out of square. Works well for me.

I had the best CA finish I had managed yet last night on a long tube click in Ziricote. Then I proceded to chip the ends when I tried to trim the excess before assembly. How frustrating!

I put it back between the bushings (delirn BTC bushings from PTP) and repaired it. But I can still see where it was repaired. I am so bummed. Everyone else says they can't tell, but I can.

What is everyone's most succesful method of getting rid of the excess CA before assembly?

No pics, I quit posting pics because I just get griped at about the photo quality...

 

[qballizhere]

It has happened to everyone at some point. You can turn the ca off down to wood again and reapply the finish. To trim the ends I use a disk sander and a small jig for tubes to slide on.

 

[brownsfn2]

I have two methods. It depends how risky I want to be or how many pens I am working on at the time. Method 1 below is least risk but slower.

1. I reverse the cutter head on my pen mill and use double stick tape to tape sandpaper to the flat part of the cutter head. Then I use it like a pen mill but it sands the ends flush. I can sand to the wood this way.

2. I use my sanding jig that I mad with my belt/edge sander. It works really fast but if the CA glue is not completely cured it can chip at times. I also need to be careful with make sure everything is square. It is really fast though.

One thing I notices is that my CA finishes are much more stable if I wait 24 hours after finishing to work with removing excess CA. If I do it too soon then it tends to chip more.

Hope this helps.

 

[InvisibleMan]

I have two methods. It depends how risky I want to be or how many pens I am working on at the time. Method 1 below is least risk but slower.

1. I reverse the cutter head on my pen mill and use double stick tape to tape sandpaper to the flat part of the cutter head. Then I use it like a pen mill but it sands the ends flush. I can sand to the wood this way.

2. I use my sanding jig that I mad with my belt/edge sander. It works really fast but if the CA glue is not completely cured it can chip at times. I also need to be careful with make sure everything is square. It is really fast though.

One thing I notices is that my CA finishes are much more stable if I wait 24 hours after finishing to work with removing excess CA. If I do it too soon then it tends to chip more.

Hope this helps.

Heh, been so long since I've made a tubed pen that I forgot I do this too. I made a sanding jig, but mine only works for shorter tubes. My favorite go-to kit pen is a Zen, and I can't fit it on my jig. I think I may need to spend a little time with Zens and Bolt Actions over the holidays....

 

[foamcapt40]

This sounds odd but I go to the Dollar store and get a four sided nail file (emery board). it has eight different grits, is used to shape acrylic nails, so I know it will work with CA, and is really cheap! The finer grits will allow you to remove CA in a controlled fashion and leaves a very smooth surface... Just rub the end of your blank (keeping it square and flat) on the varying grits, (I start with medium) and polish away!

 

[wouldentu2?]

I have a 6" x 9" piece of 320 sandpaper stuck to something flat and LIGHTLY make figure 8 motions on the sand paper until there is a change in the drag on the pen. Take a look if it is obvious when you are down to the wood. I never have a problem with going too far and changing the angle of the end. Does not get much simpler than this.

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

I've had a lot of success using a nice, sharp parting tool at a slow speed. Doing this, I get a sharp edge at the end of the tube. It needs "softening" so I focus a wee bit extra on it when I'm buffing (Beall wheels).

 

[dbarrash]

Finishing Tool

After turning and finishing between centers, I use the Sanding Tool from Rick Herrell rherrell

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f65/sale-economy-sanding-mills-42098/

Pen parts have never fit better against my turnings. Have not ruined a pen in this phase prior to assembly. However I have destroyed blanks, turnings and finishing in just about every other way possible!

Dave