Does anyone know of a way to get buffing compound out of wood grain, other than not getting it in there in the first place? I finished a cocobolo blank w/WTF, and was buffing it out and got the Barry Gross blue compound in the grain. Tried a toothbrush and water with no success.
buffing compound issue
- Thread starter Deadhead
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
thewishman
Member
Compressed air may help.
Varsol/Mineral Spirits on a soft toothbrush will remove the buffing compound.
Test it first, I'm not sure if it will dissolve the WTF, but I don't think so!
Test it first, I'm not sure if it will dissolve the WTF, but I don't think so!
ashaw
Member
The best way would be to sand the wood again. Hate to tell you. Been down that root before. Use only on CA and plastics.
edstreet
Member
Simple green removes buffing compound.
What is 'Barry Gross blue compound'?
What is 'Barry Gross blue compound'?
Last edited:
Simple Green; I have some in the garage and didn't even think of it. I'll try it tonight, thanks.
Barry Gross sells a two wheel buffing system for acrylic pens; the buffing compond is blue, which he says is two grits finer than white diamond and it's what jewlers use.
After the micro mesh, he uses plastic pen polish then the two wheel buff, for CA and acrylics. Works will well.
Penn State sells it also.
Barry Gross sells a two wheel buffing system for acrylic pens; the buffing compond is blue, which he says is two grits finer than white diamond and it's what jewlers use.
After the micro mesh, he uses plastic pen polish then the two wheel buff, for CA and acrylics. Works will well.
Penn State sells it also.
edstreet
Member
The bonding agent in buffing compound is things like Fatty Acids (Triglycerides), Stearic acid (animal fat acid), paraffin wax (mineral grease). Then there is the dye's. Many are water based and some oil based. Either way cleaners should remove most if not all of the compound.
As for bleed over in wood like light to dark, dark to light the best overall solution is a scary sharp chisel in which case very little if any sanding would be needed.
As for bleed over in wood like light to dark, dark to light the best overall solution is a scary sharp chisel in which case very little if any sanding would be needed.
turncrazy43
Member
I believe the buffing system you used, with blue compound, is for acrylic buffing only. You can use it on acrylic blanks or CA finish. For wood application the 3 wheel system is the proper one, Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnuba Wax. Afraid You used the wrong buffing system this time. Try the recommended solution. If it doesn't work I believe you will have no choice but to sand it out and start your finishing process over.
_______________________________________________
Everyday I'm vertical is a great day
_______________________________________________
Everyday I'm vertical is a great day
That's interesting that you mention that. I have buffed other pens W/WTF this way and they have come out nice. As I think about; I buffed the blanks length wise, that may be the issue. When I get home tonight I will clean them up w/ Simple Green and re-buff to see waht happens.
edstreet
Member
Well. Blue rogue is used on precious metals as it has no cutting action but more gloss based. Therefore you can use it on anything to do just that. If you are trying to cut with it then your barking up the wrong tree.
From there is nothing 'wrong' with using it on non-plastics as the original intent was precious metal
kovalcik
Member
Of course the real issue isn't whether you're buffing wood, WTF, CA, or plastic. If you get buffing compound stuck in the grain, you need to fill the grain so there is no place for the compound to get stuck.