bubble help

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

reiddog1

Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2011
Messages
564
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Casting folks,
Ive been having a blast learning to cast and am very thankful for the help that I've gotten during the process thus far. I do not own a pressure pot and have noticed that while sanding my blanks, I have small pin holes:mad:. I try to fill them with CA, but it's not working out too hot. By that time, I usually have sanding dust in the holes and can't get it out. Looks horrible!! I guess my big question is since I do multiple colors and have to wait until the resin thickens to start my pour, how do I get the bubbles out once the thickened resin is in the mold. I'm a bit perplexed. Thanks in advance.

Dave
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

renowb

Member
Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
2,241
If you have an air compressor, blow out the dust, then fill with CA. As far as the bubbles in the resin, you could vibrate it while it is catalyzing, on a drill press or something similar.
 

reiddog1

Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2011
Messages
564
Location
Jacksonville, FL
So give it a shake before I pour? I may be completely wrong, but it seems that when I pour and then put my wire in to swirl that I will introduce bubbles. Ill give it a shot and see if that works. Thanks a bunch for your help.

Dave
 
Joined
Jun 28, 2010
Messages
1,830
Location
Pineville, Louisiana
I don't know how much MKEP you are adding but you could add less so they have more time to get to the surface. I use a pop sickle stick and pop as many as I can. Sometimes I wait as long as 1/2hr sometimes more before I can mix the colors together in a mold. I do not use vibration.
 

reiddog1

Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2011
Messages
564
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Simlar 41

I'm using similar 41 and the directions say 10 drops per ounce, so that's what I do. Usually takes about 10-15 min to start setting up.

[QUOTE=Ruby pen turning;1442309]I don't know how much MKEP you are adding but you could add less so they have more time to get to the surface. I use a pop sickle stick and pop as many as I can. Sometimes I wait as long as 1/2hr sometimes more before I can mix the colors together in a mold. I do not use vibration.[/QUOTE]
 

Jim Burr

Banned
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
3,060
Location
Reno, Nv
I'm lucky to have an old clunky HF drill press. I still drill pen blanks with it, but it wobbles more than my grandma!!! Find a wobblie, safe power tool and set your mold on it...works great!! BTW...My grandama is really cool...just wobbly at 102!!
 

A10GAC

Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
12
Location
Western MA
How long do you usually let the resin vibrate? 5 min, 10 min, until it's cured? I have about half a quart of resin left over from making tractor parts and was thinking about trying a few blanks with it. I wasn't too concerned with bubbles on the tractor parts since they were being coated with Plasti-dip anyway, but I can see where it would be an issue with a non-coated item like a pen.
 

renowb

Member
Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
2,241
I agree Jonathon. I usually use 3-4 drops too. Never used 10 drops. That's way too much.

Way too much catalyst! Drop down to 3-4 drops per 1oz and you'll have better results. Your resin is setting up way to fast to let the air out.
 

reiddog1

Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2011
Messages
564
Location
Jacksonville, FL
?

Good question. So how long to vibrate and when to vibrate. Any takers on these 2 questions?

How long do you usually let the resin vibrate? 5 min, 10 min, until it's cured? I have about half a quart of resin left over from making tractor parts and was thinking about trying a few blanks with it. I wasn't too concerned with bubbles on the tractor parts since they were being coated with Plasti-dip anyway, but I can see where it would be an issue with a non-coated item like a pen.
 
Top Bottom