Box Elder Burl - stabilization

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manojd

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Nov 20, 2013
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Pune, India
I recently received a block of box elder burl. It took a few weeks in transit to reach here. When I opened the packaging, there was moisture on the saran wrap that was covering the wood. The block felt very wet. Interestingly, it has also developed what looks like roots (or the beginning of roots) that are dark red in color. There is also some fungus on it.

I have read through many threads here that describe various techniques for stabilizing wood. I have not done this before. So here goes:

1. How long should I let it sit before I can even think of stabilizing it and/or cutting it into blank size pieces.

2. Would epoxy resin be appropriate to cover the block before it is cut?

3. Has anyone used an autoclave instead of a pressure pot? I would have to search high and low to locate a pressure pot here in India. All I can see is what is used for spray equipment. I am not sure if they are enough to develop the required pressure OR would they be an overkill. Can someone help me with the minimum specs.

Thanks for your help.
 
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Jim Burr

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You pose some interesting questions Manoj! It does need to be below about 10%. Mold is typical on blanks in plastic wrap...I use it a lot and the mold is the first thing to turn off. Poking a couple holes in the plastic can help...small holes!! JMHO...but the epoxy would not be a good idea...not moisture...even tiny amounts may have no means of escape. The pressure pot/Autoclave...above my pay grade!!
 

wood-of-1kind

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Toronto, ON, Canada
I recently received a block of box elder burl. It took a few weeks in transit to reach here. When I opened the packaging, there was moisture on the saran wrap that was covering the wood. The block felt very wet. Interestingly, it has also developed what looks like roots (or the beginning of roots) that are dark red in color. There is also some fungus on it.

I have read through many threads here that describe various techniques for stabilizing wood. I have not done this before. So here goes:

1. How long should I let it sit before I can even think of stabilizing it and/or cutting it into blank size pieces.

Wait for the moisture of the wood to drop to 10-15 on the moisture meter scale.

2. Would epoxy resin be appropriate to cover the block before it is cut?

I would use "end sealer" or similar to be applied to the block in order to allow
a "slower" drying process.


3. Has anyone used an autoclave instead of a pressure pot? I would have to search high and low to locate a pressure pot here in India. All I can see is what is used for spray equipment. I am not sure if they are enough to develop the required pressure OR would they be an overkill. Can someone help me with the minimum specs.

I have used an autoclave on SPALTED WOOD in order to halt the spreading of spalting or at least to keep it check. It did not harden the wood as much it helped to dry it. Box elder is fairly soft, so stabilizing (with chemical ie Cactus Juice, Loctite Resinol 90C or the like) will certainly add to your success for turning blanks.

Thanks for your help.

Good luck with your blanks.
 
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
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Plano Texas
The ultimate question is how long to wait before you can do anything with it. The general answer is 1 year per inch of thickness. If it had moisture on the wrap, it was wet cut (typical) and can't take any stabilizing until dry. Moisture content is relative as if you live in a dry climate, it may go to lesser percentage than a higher humidity.

If you were turning it for bowls or a larger project you could turn wet and let it dry (same yr/1" thickness rule).

Wet wood requires patience. Box Elder BURL is fairly forgiving, non-burl, not as much.
 

manojd

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Nov 20, 2013
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Location
Pune, India
Wood-of-1kind, thanks for the suggestions. I can now start researching vendors for the necessary equipment.

Steve, one year per inch would be a long wait. If I cut it up, would it dry faster?
 

wood-of-1kind

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Wood-of-1kind, thanks for the suggestions. I can now start researching vendors for the necessary equipment.

Steve, one year per inch would be a long wait. If I cut it up, would it dry faster?

Smaller blanks(cut up) will certainly make the drying process quicker. Pen blanks cut to size certainly dry faster that say a large bowl blank.
 
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