BLO and CA?

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mmayo

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#1 I have never used BLO (boiled linseed oil) and wish to know how the color and grain of the pen wood would change with BLO used first before CA. I like the way CA brings out the grain, but I am always open to a better method.

#2 What is the advantage or claimed advantage to use BLO first and then a BLO soaked cloth during the application of all coats of CA?

Thanks from a newbie and sorry in advance if this has been discussed a 10^6 times.
 
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Monty

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#1 I have never used BLO (boiled linseed oil) and wish to know how the color and grain of the pen wood would change with BLO used first before CA. I like the way CA brings out the grain, but I am always open to a better method.

It will usually "pop" the grain and make the wood slightly darker. If you want to see exactly how much, apply it to a piece of scrap

#2 What is the advantage or claimed advantage to use BLO first and then a BLO soaked cloth during the application of all coats of CA?

It is supposed to smooth out the CA and cause it to polymerize. I personally don't use it. If you, DO NOT JUST TOSS THE BLO SOAKED RAG IN THE TRASH. IT WILL SPONTANEOUSLY COMBUST. Either toss the rag in a bucket of water or spread the rag out to dry.
 
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jcm71

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I have finished with BLO and without, with similar results. Concur with the above post. DO NOT THROW A BLO SOAKED RAG IN THE TRASH, and expect to have your house standing sometime in the future.

If you chose to try it, put a drop or so on a folded piece of paper towel (which brand is subject of numerous posts here), and apply it to the wood. Then apply CA on the same spot on the paper towel. After applying CA to wood you can safely throw it away (at least in my experience). If I am wrong in this, PLEASE, other contributors, correct me. I have been doing this off and on for 2 1/2 yrs, and my shop gets above 100 in the summer. If in doubt, throw your used rag/paper towel in a water filled bucket.

BTW, alternating BLO and CA on the same piece of craft foam doesn't work so well. DAMHIKT.
 

mmayo

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I appreciate the warning and will take it seriously. I have used Watco and it has a similar caution to wet the application cloth and let it dry away from other combustibles. I will do that if I ever buy some BLO.

I have had success with many, many coats of thin CA - almost too many sometimes - to fill grain and other areas that are not smooth. It works, but..I did finally buy some medium and even thick to try reduce coats and time.

I have wondered about color and grain pop in that I thought "am I getting all I can from the wood and grain or am I just getting smooth and shiny". I lilke smooth and shiny a lot (sorry those true wood fans) but I also want to get all I can from every wood type.

CA with BLO first vs CA alone for beauty and great grain and color is my query???
 
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leehljp

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BLO will cause bloodwood to turn a very slight burnt orange tint. Not too noticeable until you compare a non BLO bloodwood to a BLO bloodwood, and then the difference will be noticeable. Also, BLO on holly will give it close to an antique ivory look. BLO on dyed blanks will alter their colors just a tad also, not always desireable. On these two woods, I do NOT use BLO or other amber oils.

For me, there are woods that the natural amber effects of BLO and other finishes really enhance the grain and color and warmth, and then there are the woods that it "distracts" from the brilliance of the wood that is aleady there.

And another time that I do NOT use BLO is on oily woods like ebonies, cocobolos and rosewoods as the extra oil of BLO plus the natural oils in the wood tend to prevent great adhesion of CA.
 
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mmayo

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I like the amber tiny from older finishes on stained oak and the color enhancement of mahagony by spar varnish. I guess I will save money and skip BLO for now.

Thanks to all for your thoughtful comments.
 

gbpens

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BLO and other oils tend to have a yellowing effect and darken wood. CA is clear and will darken the wood. The question to ask is what do you want the finished wood to look like?
 

jttheclockman

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Hank Lee summed it up very well. Take heed in what he said. Now with that said. Experiment, try it. do it. see for yourself. Your results may vary than what others say. Nothing like seeing it first hand. You will eventually find your sweet spot in finishing as well as shapes for different pens, what tools to use to turn a pen, and so forth. There are no hard set rules when it comes to turning a pen. Just do it.
 

mmayo

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I plan to use a dual approach: do it AND ask others about it. That covers the waterfront better and frequently saves me from investing in something that won't improve my pens.
 
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