bonefish
Member
I just wanted to show off my second Perfect Fit. The blank was gold dyed BEB from AS.
I know, I got carried away on the final end, and the wood is about .010 too small. When I was turning the top, one end splintered and I had to reverse ends to salvage the blank.
If I ever make a pen with 0 defects, I think I will donate it to a museam.
I like it because I can use the Parker Gel.
As an aside, I have thought about making some fittings the exact size of the supplied fittings, except the small end that is pushed into the tube will be slightly smaller so they would be easy to insert and remove than if they were pressed in.
Another idea, and this would be the easiest, taking some spare fittings and turning down the push in end for a snug, but not tight fit.
These modified fittings would be used to test the fit before final assembly.
I know, why not just use the proper bushings?
One reason, I have underestimated the amount of wood to leave for sanding. Other times, for whatever reason, the blank is slightly oval, possibly because I used too much pressure, or had the nut too tight.
Another reason is that the bushings are parallel with the mandrel, and most tips and finals are tapered. I find it difficult to blend a tapered pen body to a straight bushing. If the bushing were tapered at the same angle as the pen body, it would be simpler to get, if not a perfect fit, a closer fit.
Bonefish
I know, I got carried away on the final end, and the wood is about .010 too small. When I was turning the top, one end splintered and I had to reverse ends to salvage the blank.
If I ever make a pen with 0 defects, I think I will donate it to a museam.
I like it because I can use the Parker Gel.
As an aside, I have thought about making some fittings the exact size of the supplied fittings, except the small end that is pushed into the tube will be slightly smaller so they would be easy to insert and remove than if they were pressed in.
Another idea, and this would be the easiest, taking some spare fittings and turning down the push in end for a snug, but not tight fit.
These modified fittings would be used to test the fit before final assembly.
I know, why not just use the proper bushings?
One reason, I have underestimated the amount of wood to leave for sanding. Other times, for whatever reason, the blank is slightly oval, possibly because I used too much pressure, or had the nut too tight.
Another reason is that the bushings are parallel with the mandrel, and most tips and finals are tapered. I find it difficult to blend a tapered pen body to a straight bushing. If the bushing were tapered at the same angle as the pen body, it would be simpler to get, if not a perfect fit, a closer fit.
Bonefish