Another newbie stain question

[Ron in Illinois]

Is there a reason that no one seems to use minwax wood stains on their
pens- other than you have to let it dry? I need to make some sets out of cherry but the customer wants them to be redder than I have been able to get using clear finishes.
Thanks
Ron

 

[David M]

should work . just let it dry and if it raises the grain , sand it befor the finnish is put on .
David

 

[OOPS]

Most turners prefer to keep the wood as natural as possible. Clear polys and CA will do that. A few like to slightly "enhance" the natural wood by using Enduro, for example. Others dye their wood because they want vivid colors with grain! So there's no right or wrong answer, just personal preference. As to your customer, he's buying custom pens, so he gets what he wants, right?

 

[plantman]

Ron: I have used Min wax for years without a problem. Rub the finish on, let it sit for a few minuets, wipe off excess, and check to see if it is the right shade you are looking for. If not redo until you get the right shade. Apply a finish coat over your test board. Color may change. Different woods will take the stains faster than others. Use a scrap piece of the same wood to work out your color. Sometimes you will need to use 2 different stains to get what you want. Always write down any mixtures you use so that you will be able to mix the proper amounts next time. Use an eye dropper or syringe to mix a few drops at a time for your test board. You could also use Aniline Powder Dyes. These are water-soluble powers that mix easly and allow you to create custom colors that penetrate deep and dry in 5 minutes. There is also a product called Artisan* Coloring Dyes that are alcohol-based and do the same thing, but not as many colors to choose from. I find the powders give you more control of your color on grain changes in the wood and work excellent on corn cob pens, as Min Wax also will. Jim S

 

[DestinTurnings]

Here is a trick I picked up quite a while back. Go to the hardware store and pick up some Lye. It will be in the plumbing section most likely since it is used as drain cleaner. Mix 1/2 tsp in a cup of water and stir until disolved. Wipe on the wood and watch the magic happen. It ages wood 100 yrs in seconds. When you are happy with the color, wipe it with white vinegar to stop the darkening effect. Then just lightly sand to remove any high grain and finish.

 

[StephenM]

Cherry darkens with exposure to UV. You can leave it in the sun (chancy as the heat could crack the wood) or put it under a fluorescent reptile light. Safe UV with no heat.

Just remember, that when you stain it, it's still going to darken naturally so you'll end up with a very dark piece of wood down the line.

 

[KenV]

Is there a reason that no one seems to use minwax wood stains on their
pens- other than you have to let it dry? I need to make some sets out of cherry but the customer wants them to be redder than I have been able to get using clear finishes.
Thanks
Ron

Ron -- Stains are pigment caught in the pores of the wood. As the wood grain varies, the stain can be varied more. This is a difference between turned items and flat work. Stain will work best on woods that are pretty straight grained if you want an even color/appearance all the way around.

Dyes are colorants that are transparent. There are some dyes that are more light-fast than others. Good news with cherry is that the wood darkens quickly in the sunlight.

Transtint dye is one of the light fast ones.

 

[darrin1200]

I have recently used the trick above to quickly age a cherry cabinet I made. It works fantastic but you must wear gloves and eye protection.

Rather than buying a big box of lye, you can use simple oven cleaner. I used Easy Off in a spray bottle. The important ingredient is Sodium Hydroxide.

You also have to make sure that there is nothing on the wood such as glue. If the wood is protected, it will not be affected. Keep the viniger handy, as the reddening effect happens very fast.

The one thing I don't know is how it will affect the glue holding your tubes such as CA. It did not affect the wood glue joints in my cabinet, but I also worked quickly with the oven cleaner and the viniger.

Biggest thing to remember is SAFTEY, sodium hydroxide is an acid.

I think you and your client will be happy with the results.

 

[TerryDowning]

Biggest thing to remember is SAFTEY, sodium hydroxide is an acid.

Actually, Sodium Hydroxide is a base that is caustic. This is why you use Vinegar (Acetic acid) to neutralize it.

End of today's chemistry lesson.:biggrin: