Another finishing thread...Don't shoot, please!

[builtbybill]

Hello,

I know that this has been covered extensively so please do not shoot me. I have read through threads all the way back to 2005 on the subject but some of them are just not relevant due to products that have either come or gone over the past 10 years.

What is the best non CA finish for wood pens? By best I probably mean most durable/longest lasting, I know almost any of the finishes can/will give an initial high gloss finish. I can get a decent finish with CA but that stuff is really killing my eyes, worse than onions, plus going through a lot of layers of skin.

I am willing to sacrifice time for quality/durability. Since I do not do production work I do not need the fastest finish, if there is a better finish that might take a little longer that would be preferred.

I have the following items currently:

Behlens Woodturner's Finish
Behlens Deluxing Compound
BLO
Watco Danish Oil
Hut Crystal Coat
Hut Ultra Gloss
The Hut wax sticks
Deft Brushing Lacquer
All the polys - spar, oil, water

The one that I was thinking about trying was the Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus finish. If I try this is it required to do the sanding with the walnut oil or can I do the sanding with BLO instead?

I also just came across the thread for the Plexi-Tone finish, this seems kind of neat, and I have unlimited supply of free plexiglass scraps.

Thanks in advance,

Bill

 

[plano_harry]

Bill, if CA is bothering you, are you using a good dust collection system? If it is doing the job, you should have no CA fumes in your face. CA is all I do, but it made me wonder if you were aware of the risks that sub micron dust poses. I was not when I first started turning and thought it might help you. Good luck finding the best finish. There are lots of fans for each product.

 

[Edgar]

You might want to check out the 2P-10 CA glue from Fastcap. It doesn't have near the fumes as the usual brands and they have a wider variety. It's gotten pretty good reviews from most everyone here who's tried it.

I rarely use CA for a finish though - I usually use a friction polish but I also use Craft Coat that you can apply similarly to CA. Ed Brown has a great video for it on the Exotics Blanks web site.

I haven't tried Pens Plus yet, but I've seen some great finishes here by folks who do & it's something I plan to try.

 

[Wildman]

Lot depends upon whether want film finish that builds and maintains sheen or simply protects the wood and provides low luster.

Never used Watco Danish Oil (oil/resin blend) on a pen. Have on turned lamps and bowls. Easy to apply non building finish low luster sheen. My table lamps fifteen- twenty years old look good even with some sheen fade back. Stopped buying that product and went to making my own oil/resin blend or wiping varnish talking about using 50/50 mix of poly or varnish with solvent for turnings.

Have used Crystal Coat & Hut wax sticks, you will get sheen fade back, wood will have low luster. Easy to apply, durability depends upon use! Some of my desk pens made more than ten years ago looking good!

Cannot find Deft Brushing Lacquer around here but have brushed, dipped, and sprayed it on pens. Each coat will blend into previous coat and build to nice depth of sheen.
Shellac, everyone says not durable, but I disagree! I use a French polishing application. Have not seen any sheen fade back.

Oil poly, more difficult for me, brushing required more work, dipping worked lot better for me. Prefer water base/waterborne poly these days.

Have no experience with Doctor's Pens Plus, but sounds a lot like Crystal Coat (Shellac mixture) to me so not sure would sand with BLO.

I have seen many Plexiglas finished pens that look outstanding, hope someone with experience chimes in, never had a desire to try! Not sure have proper PPE!

 

[jttheclockman]

The plexiglass finish is being discussed in another recent thread here. Check it out. Seems to be too soft of a finish and suspect to scratches easily.

If regular CA is bothering you then try odorless CA. More expensive but you say you do not do many pens so it might be worth it.

I leave all other finishes to others but they have been covered many times here.

 

[Mack C.]

I use a fan to dissipate what little fumes I get! Works for me, and assists the CA in drying.

 

[monophoto]

What is the best non CA finish for wood pens? By best I probably mean most durable/longest lasting, I know almost any of the finishes can/will give an initial high gloss finish.

You said you wanted durability, but you also mentioned high gloss - is that a requirement also?

In my opinion, polyurethane is just as durable as CA, and is far less obnoxious to deal with. It does take longer to apply because you have to apply multiple coats with several hours between applications. I've had success with traditional solvent-based WOP and also water-borne floor finish. Both build and can be buffed to a high gloss after they fully cure.

I also like lacquer-based friction polish. There are a few commercial varieties, but I make my own using equal quantities of brushing lacquer, tung oil and lacquer thinner. This FP won't build as rapidly or be as glossy as a shellac-based finish, but it is tougher. And it allows the finished product to feel like wood rather than plastic.

 

[raar25]

I saw Barry Gross demonstrating Ole's Old finish at the wood turning show. I looked simple enough, just dont know how durable it will be and it is not cheap. If anyone has tried it and tested it for durability maybe you can let us know. It did not give the gloss and depth of CA but it did leave a nice finish.

Arizona Silhouette: Odie's Oil Finishing System

 

[rd_ab_penman]

I use my "Dipping Method" with MINWAX Polyurethane to get a Fast, Odor Free, Durable, Easy to Apply, Consistent, Reliable finish each and every time.

Les

 

[raar25]

Les how do you get polyurethane to be fast?