PaulDoug
Member
I just received some Alternative Ivory that CSUSA sales. Any advice on turning it? I want to use it on the Stretch Rollerball that comed from Lau Lau woodworks.
ALTERNATIVE IVORY
- Thread starter PaulDoug
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PenWorks
Member
It is polyester resin, can be some what brittle if you turned PR before.
Sharp skew, light cuts, heavy on the RPM's, should get a nice ribbon flow.
Sharp skew, light cuts, heavy on the RPM's, should get a nice ribbon flow.
PaulDoug
Member
Does it blow out easy when drilling? I think I will wait till my new lathe arrives before I try it. I have turned corian but not polyester resin.
PenWorks
Member
Use a waist black under your blank when drilling, this will help avoid chips and blowouts. Also, you may want to cut your blank longer, do not drill all the way threw, just deep enough for the tube and then cut to length on a band saw.
MobilMan
Member
Page 129 CSUSA directly under the add for the Ivory it says in small print "Does not know if it's being turned on a new or old lathe."
Being you've turned Corian, you can easily turn PR or the Ivory. Just like Corian, you have to take your time drilling, using water during drilling helps lube it. Turn it with the same tools you used on Corian. Poly. Res. biulds up on the mandrel more, but everything is the same. You CAN do it. Sharp tools & take your time.
Being you've turned Corian, you can easily turn PR or the Ivory. Just like Corian, you have to take your time drilling, using water during drilling helps lube it. Turn it with the same tools you used on Corian. Poly. Res. biulds up on the mandrel more, but everything is the same. You CAN do it. Sharp tools & take your time.
Rifleman1776
Member
You said, "Use a waist black under your blank when drilling"
What does that mean?
rincewind03060
Member
PenWorks
Member
Meant "waste block" if you want to paint yours "black" that is optional but not neccessary
I'm outa here, heading to the airport in 20 minutes to meet Virgil and Dan for lunch.
You guys be good
I'm outa here, heading to the airport in 20 minutes to meet Virgil and Dan for lunch.
You guys be good
PaulDoug
Member
Thanks for the encougagement. Still going to wait for the new lathe, my old HF lathe is begining to chatter a little. Least that is what I'm going to tell my wife when I let her know I ordered a new lathe!![:0]
sbell111
Member
I used to cast small items out of the alumilite. Since the items would be painted after casting, I used the cheapest alumilite available, the tan 'regular' alumilite. As memory serves, it was just about the same color as alternative ivory. Is there anything special about the alternative ivory, or could you just pour your own?
PaulDoug
Member
Steve, I have not gotten into the casting yet. Hope to some day, but haven't yet. I think I will like the ivory look so I will remember your suggestion and give it a try when I get to the pouring/casting level of this EXPENSIVE hobby
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
Please don't take this the wrong way, but turning polyester resin is NOTHING like turning corian. Corian does NOT chip off on the ends as PR is wont to do. The hobby becomes MORE expensive when you START with material that is outside your experience level, then blow it out. START with simpler plastics, get used to the angle of approach that works, THEN move on to alternative materials.
By using a progression of materials, you will waste LOTS LESS. There will always be waste, I blew out a Gentleman cap 3 nights ago -- but I won't blow out another one soon!!!
Oh well, if you are having fun and can afford the price, just buy your alternative ivory from ME, I have lots in stock!!!
Best of luck!
By using a progression of materials, you will waste LOTS LESS. There will always be waste, I blew out a Gentleman cap 3 nights ago -- but I won't blow out another one soon!!!
Oh well, if you are having fun and can afford the price, just buy your alternative ivory from ME, I have lots in stock!!!
Best of luck!
PaulDoug
Member
Not taken wrong, this is the kind of advice I seek. I have some practice material that I an working with. And NO I can't afford to many goofs!
gerryr
Member
You probably got some instructions from CSUSA on how to turn it. DO NOT believe them. I think it recommends turning at around 1800 rpm. The first time I tried turing it, I followed their advice and promptly blew up the blank. Slow speed does not work well with this stuff.
PaulDoug
Member
The instruction that came with it are reprinted froma Woodturning Mag. It says he turned ot at about 350-500 RPM using a scrapper. I have not used a scrapper much.
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
Paul,
Don't know if you did it intentionally or not.
Since Cav is under the weather, let me take his place:
"Scrapper" is EXACTLY what you will have, if you turn ate 350-500RPM with your SCRAPER!!!
A Scraper CAN be used and it will work well, if it is sharp. (But NOT at 500 RPM, turn as FAST as you are comfortable). I have always found sharpening this tool to be a particular challenge.
Alt ivory comes in a rod, I suggest starting with a 1" (or so) Roughing gouge. JUST TOUCH the rod, let it take off small cuts - if they come off as "ribbons", life is good. You will find the tool works better with the handle higher than it usually is for wood. Flattens the approach to the material and is not as aggressive.
Biggest thing, ROLL your tool around each of the edges!!!!!!!! Take off edges RIGHT AFTER you reach a cylinder. This will minimize your "blow ups" on the lathe. Oh, and I NEVER drill through. I cut off the end - but that's just ME!!
Don't know if you did it intentionally or not.
Since Cav is under the weather, let me take his place:
"Scrapper" is EXACTLY what you will have, if you turn ate 350-500RPM with your SCRAPER!!!
A Scraper CAN be used and it will work well, if it is sharp. (But NOT at 500 RPM, turn as FAST as you are comfortable). I have always found sharpening this tool to be a particular challenge.
Alt ivory comes in a rod, I suggest starting with a 1" (or so) Roughing gouge. JUST TOUCH the rod, let it take off small cuts - if they come off as "ribbons", life is good. You will find the tool works better with the handle higher than it usually is for wood. Flattens the approach to the material and is not as aggressive.
Biggest thing, ROLL your tool around each of the edges!!!!!!!! Take off edges RIGHT AFTER you reach a cylinder. This will minimize your "blow ups" on the lathe. Oh, and I NEVER drill through. I cut off the end - but that's just ME!!
gerryr
Member
Where's your sense of adventure?[}
]
Rifleman1776
Member
Originally posted by PenWorks
Meant "waste block" if you want to paint yours "black" that is optional but not neccessary
I'm outa here, heading to the airport in 20 minutes to meet Virgil and Dan for lunch.
You guys be good
Thanks for the translation.
randyrls
Member
To join the thread; The olther reposnse are good suggestions. Cut blank 1/4 to 1/2" long, drill just long enough for the tube, and cut the outside ends off.
If you have a round blank and large tube (drill bit) size, wrap the blank in sandpaper with grit side in. This keeps the blank from spinning in the vise.
Turn from center toward ends of blanks. You should get ribbons of material. If you get pellets (thats bad), change your technique or sharpen tools.