acrylic

[jmr]

I've turned a few wood pens with some success. Thought I would try Acrylic---turned well and looks great. Sand to 12000 MM. What now? Do you need to CA -- Hut or what to seal and finish? Thanks for the help.

 

[fernhills]

Plastic Polish

 

[cowchaser]

Some swear by hut, some swear by others. I have been using meguires plastic polish and TSW. Would like to do brasso before the polish, but can seem to find liquid brasso here. Only paste. I am going to order some hut ultra shine or whatever it's called
and give it a shot and see what happens.

 

[OKLAHOMAN]

Brasso then Mequiers plastic polish then TSW or Ren wax.
Dustin,I just bought some Brasso at Lowes and also Ace Hardware has it, do you have an Ace in Ponca City? If not let me know and I'll get a bottle in the mail to you on Monday.

 

[OKLAHOMAN]

BTW paste should work fine just put a dab on your paper tower and apply then buff off. give it a try.

Originally posted by OKLAHOMAN
<br />Brasso then Mequiers plastic polish then TSW or Ren wax.
Dustin,I just bought some Brasso at Lowes and also Ace Hardware has it, do you have an Ace in Ponca City? If not let me know and I'll get a bottle in the mail to you on Monday.

 

[cowchaser]

Yes we do have an ACE now that I think about it. I always forget that place. Thanks Roy.

 

[redfishsc]

IF you already have micromesh--- fresh micromesh, not stuff that has one foot in the grave--- use micromesh followed by liquid Brasso. I wet-sand to 600 before getting out the MM. I typically do every grit of micromesh for 15-30 seconds, with LIGHT pressure using water from a cheap ketchup squirt bottle from Walmart. Acrylic takes more work to get to a glassy shine than wood because it shows any and every imperfection/scratch.

Follow up with Brasso on a paper towel, and spend about 30 seconds on each blank with the lathe at HIGH speed (3700+ rmp), but do NOT build up extreme heat. You will get some heat, but don't get the blank "hot". Keep the paper towel wet with Brasso.



HOWEVER----------------------------

If you do not have micromesh, save your money and time just go to HF, Woodcraft, Klingspor, or wherever, and buy TWO buffing wheels-- at least 4" diameter, I use 8", and a mandrel to hold them--- I use mandrels that I hold in a drill chuck on my lathe. Also buy one brick of Tripoli, one brick of White Diamond (both are cheap).

Now, follow the instructions of this tutorial, found at the bottom, for buffing. I PROMISE the gloss is perfect and literally half the time or even a third of the micromesh deal. You can, if you want a stupid insane gloss, follow all this with Brasso. But it's really not necessary, just kinda fun.


http://www.thepenshop.net/cigar.pdf

 

[Geo in Winnipeg]

I sand to 2nd micro mesh (this might be overkill) then use buffing wheel with white diamond - then Novus plastic polish. Works for me.

 

[R2]

I normally use wet and dry to 2000 and then toothpaste, not gel, but the type with a fine abrasive in it.[]

 

[Jarheaded]

Try using the Novus from MLK. It will save you a lot of sanding and gives a great finish that is ready for Hut plastic polish.

 

[stevers]

If you aren't wet sanding, start. It makes a world of diff.

 

[Ligget]

I have a seperate lathe set up with a three wheel buffing system, but I still prefer wet sanding from 240 grit up too 500. Then wet MM from 1500 up to 12000, final scratches are removed with Hut Ultra Gloss plastic polish and lots of elbow grease!