So I picked up some acrylic blanks, I start turning it and WOW does it stink!!!! is this normal? After turning it, I start to sand it at 150 grit. It eventually develops a twist in the plastic and as im examining it, it breats lol.. what am i doing here?
acrylic newbie
- Thread starter r-ice
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CSue
Local Chapter Leader
welcome to the wonders of acrylics. Yup, the smell is a rather acquired scent. And the little ribbons of "snow" all over the place is a great place for cats to play. It took me quite awhile to get used to the odor. Actually I worked with Corian for awhile between my first and second acrylic pen. By the time I got back to the acrylic, the smell didn't seem to bad. I still make sure the air is circuilating well while turning acrylics. I have to say, though, I've never been bother by the odor when turning PR Princess' blanks.
I think you've allowed too much heat to build up while sanding. Occasionally there may be small pocket of air. Some others here can tell you more.
Sometime I start sanding with 220 paper being careful not to let the acrylic heat up too much. Most of the time I'm able to get smooth enough finish to start with 320 and MM to 12000. You need sharp tools!
I think you've allowed too much heat to build up while sanding. Occasionally there may be small pocket of air. Some others here can tell you more.
Sometime I start sanding with 220 paper being careful not to let the acrylic heat up too much. Most of the time I'm able to get smooth enough finish to start with 320 and MM to 12000. You need sharp tools!
WOW... 150, 220, and 320???
I start sanding with 600 grit with almost every acrylic blank. Most of my acrylics are homebrew PR blanks, but still. One key i think, is water. Wetsand acrylics. Keeps the dust down, keeps the heat down, and even smells better. I even use the dish soap trick. Without dish soap, i would start wetsanding at 400. go slow, and don't let the blank get so hot.
I start sanding with 600 grit with almost every acrylic blank. Most of my acrylics are homebrew PR blanks, but still. One key i think, is water. Wetsand acrylics. Keeps the dust down, keeps the heat down, and even smells better. I even use the dish soap trick. Without dish soap, i would start wetsanding at 400. go slow, and don't let the blank get so hot.
fernhills
Member
I start at 400-600 or go right to MM. I wet sand all acrylics at the slowest possible speed.No big hurry, it is not supposed to be an assembly line. I have been called a lot of names in my life, but never Flash. Carl
dankc908
Member
I do 180, 220, 320 - Start the wetsanding at 600 and go to 12000. This works for me. I'm curious, however, what is the "dish soap trick"? I'm always anxious to try new techniques, etc.
i read it here and it works like you cant imagine. you just kee your wetsanding paper (MM or whatever) in a container of water with a bit of dish soap. I am telling you, you will quit using 320, and 400 and all that. You can go from 600 straight to MM and get an incredible shine. Sometimes i dont even use PlastX.
glycerine
Member
I hear if you turn underwater, you want smell it. Kinda like cutting onions... 
jlord
Member
I have the Jet 1220 & turn acrylics on the 2630rpm pulley. For sanding I change speed down to 1240rpm. Wet sand starting at 600, then mm to 12000. I use a spray bottle for wet sanding. I do bump the speed back to 2630 & apply a coat of Hut ultra gloss plastic polish. I do the same for a ca finish (don't forget to seal the ends before wet sanding to keep moisture out) & it comes out like glass.
TellicoTurning
Member
I turn and sand at the same speed on acrylics usually at the second from highest speed on my Jet1014...not sure of exact speed but probably in 2600 rpm range.... I use the skew to do the turning and if I've done my job right, little sanding is needed.... a couple of passes with a piece of wet sand paper at 400, then right to the little pads that PSI sells... I think they start at 600 and go through 12,000. Even then I normally only need a couple of passes on each grit to get a smooth finish... then polish with Hut plastic polish... I've heard that McGuire's auto polish is better, but haven't tried that yet.
BigguyZ
Member
I like the smell. But anyways, I use the fastest speed on my 1014, and I prefer to finish with a really sharp scraper and do the polish with 3M Perfect-it III rubbing compound.
Point is, there are a lot of ways to go about any material, and the details need to be found out by each person according to what they like to do.
TellicoTurning
Member
I like the smell. But anyways, I use the fastest speed on my 1014, and I prefer to finish with a really sharp scraper and do the polish with 3M Perfect-it III rubbing compound.
Point is, there are a lot of ways to go about any material, and the details need to be found out by each person according to what they like to do.
I hadn't really thought about the smell... my shop smells of dust all the time anyway, so everything there smells of dust to me.... CSue said she like to corian.. that stinks to me.... and a piece of real ebony smells like a wet cow barn lot... as an old farm boy, not necessarily a bad smell, but that's what it reminds me of.... Marblewood smells like old moldy socks. But the rosewoods, like tulipwood, kingwood and some of the brazilian woods really have a pleasant smell.
Haven't tried the 3M... actually I'm still working on the second bottle of the HUT plastic polish I bought which was about 3 or 4 years ago... I only use a single drop per pen and in the past couple of years, I've cut back on my pen turning.
I've never gone to the very top speed on my 1014... don't know why, just never have.... same with the 1442.... one of these days I'll have to try it.... I've just gotten comfortable with the speeds I work at and don't change very often.
mrrichieboy
Member
When I turn acrylics, I start at 400 or 500 and then all the way to 12,000 like most of the posts here....but I wet sand everything, I never dry sand acrylics. I buy my wet/dry sandpaper at a local Auto Paint supply store (they cater to body shops) and they go up to 2500. A lot less expensive then buying on line. I buy the micro mesh 4" x 6" sheets (not the pads) on line and cut them down, and they do last quite a long time.
--Rich
--Rich
BigguyZ
Member
Well I've found that's the most important thing. Try the higher speed, but if you find it's not for you, then keep doing what works!
BTW, I forgot to mention that I wet sand all acrylics. I've found that MS has good heat absorption, and the drips won't rust your lathe bed!
Jmhoff10500
Member
I've broken my share of acrylic and it has been due to user error every time. First of all I've found that sumo glue and a night to dry will hold the acrylic to the tube stronger than the ca glue, this will help with the spinning problem. The next part I noticed was a problem was how my lathe was set up. You want to turn your lathe all the way up an then position your tool rest about 1/8 inch above the center of the piece. This will allow your tool of choice to perform a slice action instead of a cutting action. This also puts much less strain on the material allowing it to not break in the end. As you get your acrylic piece to the bushings leave about 1/16 of an inch of material above the bushings. This will allow you to sand it down from there and eliminate the little gouges you get at the ends of tour tube. The reason the acrylic twist and breaks is because you create too much heat on it while sanding. I've found that with this method you don't need to wet sand until you get to about 600 grit. What you do is cut you off a piece of 3/4 inch wide by 4 inches long sandpaper and just keep it moving over the surface of the acrylic. Expecially move side to side and you never want to stay in one spot for more than about a second, this will eliminate the twisting and breaking. From there just wet sand your way to a shiny finish. I go all the way up to 1500 grit. It may be overkill but it makes the surface like glass. Give it a nice acrylic polish and assemble!!!