I'm trying to make my first segmented pen, but the Z-Poxy fails when the blank heats up from drilling or bandsawing. Anyone else experience this? Could someone suggest a better epoxy for segmenting pens?
Perhaps you should look at why the blank is getting that hot. That's not normal. Sharp tools, slow progress will keep things cool. Depending on materials, you can use coolant/lubricant (e.g. Pam) if necessary. Just progress slowly, clear the chips often, and keep the tools sharp. Heat should not be a problem.
Agreed. Sharp tools are necessary. I have used the Z-Poxy for years in modeling and not had a problem. I would sharpen or replace the drill bit and proceed as outlined above.
Thanks for the replies. I'm using Colt bits and they're new (doesn't mean they're sharp). My first attempt was with a buffalo horn blank. Second attempt was with olive wood and pick material. The buffalo horn blank came apart during drilling. I go slow and use my shop vac to clear shavings. Still, the horn heats up. The olive wood and pick blank came apart while I was making the second cut. Should I score the pick material before gluing? The blank didn't get hot, just warm. Blade is sharp, but I'll sharpen it again to make sure. Allowed 24 hours for the epoxy to fully cure before attempting the second cut.
I've never dealt with olive wood. Is it oily? I have had some failures when using pick guard, which I attribute to poor glue technique. In my case, the kerf was too thin and wedging the pickguard into the kerf caused all the epoxy to be wiped off.... also, my pick guard has a very thin layer of plastic protective coating on one side. Be sure to remove that! I would definitively rough up the shiny pick guard before glue up.
Hope this helps
Tom
Not sure, but I suspect olive wood is oily. Your description of the thin kerf causing the glue to squeeze out may be what happened. I tried to open the gap a little by making a second cut, but I still had a very tight squeeze when I slid in the pick guard. I did remove the plastic protective sheet before gluing. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
You can wrap the blank with clear packaging tape to help stabilize the glue joints. Keep in mind this will also hold in more heat during drilling, so go extra slow. I generally drill about 1/4" at a time max. The pick guard may also be trying to 'deflect' the drill bit. This happens with me on some metal segments. I have pre-drilled holes in the metal prior to glue up and this has had some success.