Bob; I am getting lost a bit when you and Dave say you are having trouble with the size of your blanks. I use two methods of controling size depending on the pen design and clay technique I am going to use. They both involve using two wooden spacers that will allow the proper thickness of clay that I want for my rough blank. Lay them out on a solid surface with enough space for your tube to freely roll between them. Insert a rod or drill bit into your tube so it sticks out on both ends. Run your clay trough the pasta machine at a setting a little larger than your rough blank size, cut to the size of your tube, and apply to the tube. Roll the blank between the two spacers to get an even thickness along the length of the tube. This method works for both random and patterened blanks. When I do the flowered designs, I use Toni"s method. (Found here on the site) Start with a thin background layer, usualy darker or lighter, depending on your main colors in the blank you want to make. I don't recall if Toni uses this step or not. Guage how thick you will have to slice your cane to meet the fittings and slice a little thicker. Lay out your patterns and press into/onto your background. Use the spacer strips to roll your blank to the rough blank size. Now on this one you have to be realy careful, it you take to much of your blank off when turning, you are going to cut through your pattern. For this reason I usualy fill in the spaces with a contrasting color after I have set the patterned canes directly on the tubes. If I use the spacers, I should be able to finish the canes by using a fine metal file to smooth out any rough spots, bring the ends down to proper size, and sanding only. No turning !! Toni is not a woodturner, she makes fantasticly beautiful blanks by hands, skills, and talents alone !!!!!! Read her piece in the library if you have not already done so. The other method I use, if I am not conserned about the pattern, is to just put the clay on the tube oversized, turn down to the largest thickness on my metal lathe, use a fine file or sandpaper to bring the ends down to the proper size, and finish. Hope this helps you some. Jim S[/quote
Hi Jim,
Thank you so much for your input.
Yes, I have read Toni's library article and discussed the ideas with my wife's poly clay teacher, Debbie. She suggested that it was much easier to make the petal canes rather than a whole flower cane, and I do agree, that way it is easier and you are able to make individual flowers, rather than them all being the same. I used my steel bushes to guide me to the correct sizes for the flower blanks that I posted last week.
However, Prior to the flower blanks, I made these Mokume blanks after my wife had been to a workshop with Debbie, and I was flying somewhat blind at that time. I was so excited about the new patterns she brought home that I just didn't think about the shapes that were happening. I figured that I could turn them to size later.:redface:
Now I know that that is not or almost impossible to do so the next ones will be shaped accordingly, so that turning is not required. I like the idea that Dave suggested for tapered bushes to allow for a tapered shape in the blank. I also like your suggestion so one of those options will be used for the next lot.
In the meantime I will probably peel off all the blanks that are too out of shape so I don't loose the tubes.
It is sooo much fun, I really don't have a problem with doing them twice.
Thank you again for your very helpful advice.
Bob.